Gregory

Exploring my notes led to page 1 of the Syren instructions from ModelExpo

Syren Instructions authored by Chuck Passaro.

It has some excellent details about the rabbeting strip, and also the actual " false Keel " that Mark gave a good description of..

A lot of kits do not include that feature which probably existed on 99% of these wooden ships.

17 minutes ago, wefalck said:

BTW, I did not understand the above picture: the actual keel and the posts should be wider than the 'false' keel plate in order to provide a step against which the planks can land.

As an example, say the false keel, stem and stern post , etc. are 3/16" thick.  The strip would then be 1/16" and centered on the edge of the false keel, leaving a groove ( rabbet ) of 1/16" on each side for fixing the planks.  

Here are more images from one of Chuck's builds that illustrates this better..

Of course, the bearding line and tapering the false keel to meet the stern post would be similar to the usual practice.

The angle of the rabbet may not be as critical in modeling as it is in actual ship building..

Once a plank is in place, the angle is not apparent..

I prefer the easy way out of attaching a small strip along the false keel, which I learned from Chuck's models.

4 hours ago, Dave B said:

What kind of improvements is Dusek making to the Mamoli kits? Better wood and/or instructions or other changes? Nice to hear that in any case. I looked at the website and don't see it described although the photos look nice.

I commented on the Halifax kit back in December.

The kits also include some photo etched brass parts..

I have managed to put together the skeleton so far, and it went together very nicely.  I don't see the problems with shape and

fit that I experienced with the old Mamoli kits.

Are there more details than the illustration Trident Models provided?

Dusek is doing a nice job of resurrecting some of the Mamoli kits with some substantial improvements.

They make very nice beginner kits..

Have you seen these articles, here at MSW:

Ship Model Framing and Planking

I like Wawak...

2 hours ago, Chuck said:

But nothing beats a hand carved version.

I have a feeling that if contemporary modelers had had a laser, they would have used it...

I know what you mean..  I throw away the blocks that come with kits..

I have had a good experience with Crafty Sailor ...

Also with Cornwall...

That thread is where Chuck talks about his products and methods; while I was inspired to create a thread to  talk about the quality of his service, and give others the opportunity to do so, without distracting from what is essentially Chuck's banner thread..

Did you ever do business with a company that seemed pretty good, and then one time they drop the ball, with poor quality or poor service?

Chances are you were dealing with different people at different times.   Maybe a temp who could care less about your repeat business.

Well, I have been buying from Chuck over two years now and it only gets better.

His products, service, prices and shipping charges cannot be matched in my opinion.

I'm sure one of the things that may be keeping him from expanding would be that it would be hard to get help that he could rely on to deliver to his high standards.

I don't know how he keeps up with the demand as it is, but I can't wait to see his next new product.

Please use this topic to discuss your experience with Chuck and the Syren Ship Model Company..

I don't just put a drop on knots..  I wet the whole line. Very diluted of course, but it helps the line keep its shape and can be loosened with

water if needed.

I have experimented with shellac and varnish, and in my experience they darken or add a shine to the line, which may be desirable

in some cases, but not what I am going for..

I'm getting close to finishing up the rigging on my Yacht Mary, and  was exploring some technique for setting up the several tackle required.

I was wondering about the methods others may use.

I set up the final dimensions, and then hang it with some tension on it.  I then wet it down with very thin white glue.

It usually dries overnight before I fit it to the boat..

After over ten years of very intermittent work, I'm finally seeing the end of the tunnel..

A great find, and very interesting, but someone's definition of " intact " is a lot different from mine...

8 hours ago, Trident Model said:

This part has little to do with KIT. It's intended for friends who want to make sail ropes. It's provided free of charge in KIT.

Interesting!  

Do you have any information about how this part is used?

8 hours ago, Trident Model said:

 

Some thoughts in this regard..

I'm not sure how to go about approaching them, but I heard there  are companies that provide props for movie sets, and the like.

There are also companies that do staging for real estate sales, leasing and etc..

It seems to me a nice ship model  might fit in with these sorts of businesses.. 

It would be a matter of connecting with someone who knows more about these sort of things..

Since this topic was resurrected after two years, during which time we have kicked Petersson and his books around quite a bit, I think it is good that anyone new to the discussion, note that Petersson documented the rigging, errors included, that he found on contemporary models, without any apparent reference to other authorities or sources such as Steel.  I think he would have done well to have made this more clear in the books, and advised serious modelers to compare his observations to other sources.  It is certainly not a good idea to recommend this book as a primary reference source for model rigging without pointing out it's shortcomings.

It also provides an important lesson, in that it shows contemporary models are not without their faults, and not the final word on how we should pursue this hobby; at least not for me.

I am glad we have members on the forum who know enough about this stuff to point out some of the serious errors Petersson included in his books without any research beyond the models he examined.

Meanwhile, I have his two books and I find them useful as a quick reference, and really admire the drawings from an artistic standpoint.

However, I have learned to verify what I see in the books when it comes to rigging my own models.

Just speculation based on a one time post and no further contribution to the discussion.

I could be wrong..  Happens all the time..   I'm the suspicious type.

I think we got spammed..   

This one looks to have about the smallest footprint I have seen.

It appears to be well made.

Allwin Benchtop Mini Disk/Belt Sander

I think I would spend $87 on one of these:

Harbor Freight

Before I would spend $225 on the " Ultimation " sander..

Is this the kit from Occre?

From what I can see in the images available the anchor cable is not visible after it enters the hawse hole, so I think you will be good with

just leaving it hidden.

The operator has a lot to do with that..