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Gregory

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Posts posted by Gregory

  1. 1 hour ago, Chuck said:

    Now the inside edges do have laser char on them as you might expect.  DO NOT try and sand this stuff off. 

    Just curious.. 

    They appear dark all around, not just the inside edges,  and unlike some of your other thin boxwood pieces. like the lantern.   Is that just the lighting?

     

    The dark color provides contrast that I find attractive..

  2. 1 hour ago, Julie Mo said:

    Yes, please do.  I'd love to see it.

    After I offered to show you an example, I went through a lot of my files, and really couldn't find a good example, so I put together a quick demo.

     

    Basically,  I start with some tracing paper..

    veneer1.jpg.c7acaa0ad6319c0f8ce0670a5e760188.jpg

    Which I overlay on the part of the plans I wish to veneer.

    veneer2.jpg.87b53da3d24872af6db84c9b30e6de90.jpg

    Then I take the veneer strips and glue them to the tracing paper with white or yellow glue.  I use colored pencil to highlight the edges when desired..

     

    veneer3.jpg.6a5cfcdc355a6d22a241166e0a822368.jpg

    Once the pattern is complete, I can sand and add finish ( poly or whatever ), before cutting out the finished piece and adding it to the model..

    I find this convenient, if I decide to do it over without having to strip it off of the model.

    The above picture is not a good example of a finish I would find acceptable.   It was done quickly to show my method.

     

    If you look at my Gretel in the Gallery, all of the deck pieces were prepared in this manner.

     

    If I  haven't made my method clear, please ask me any questions..

  3. I personally can't justify the price of boxwood, so I'm out.

     

     I really like your AYC, and find it very satisfactory for details where I might otherwise use boxwood.

     

    Are you considering offering milled cherry outside of the Winchelsea project?  I have got some very good stuff at a reasonable price from Ocooch, but they have

    somewhat limited thicknesses..

  4. 27 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

    There is a fid hole and fid indicated in the Bowsprit but this sits forward of the Bitt pins, which makes little sense.

    I can't say if it is documented practice, but a fid forward of the bitts might provide support in helping to keep the bowsprit from being pushed aft by the tension of bobstays or other rigging..

    There appears to be a fid forward of the bitts on this contemporary model.

     

  5. 2 hours ago, Chuck said:

    Have a look at those lids in that photo of the contemporary model.  I will use brass strip and shape them just like that. 

     

    1722156388_GunportDetail.jpg.ed8b813350a1c28e379d048652529b87.jpg

     

     

    Not saying this is within my skill set, but your discussion of the port lids, and in the context of your beautiful model, do you think going this far ( the curved port lid )  would be too much?

     

    Would they have been like that on the actual ship?

  6. A little bit of progress..

     

    185846591_build(2).jpg.0ab2fbec4ef23372695d6c625da2e83d.jpg

    137202022_build(1).jpg.824f603b7d19e8798950757f7748c891.jpg

    The main false deck is a real tight fit and all I really needed to square up the bulkheads. 

    The quarter deck false deck did not match the plans and wasn't fitting well, so I cut a new piece, which resulted in the color difference..

    Looking forward to starting the planking. after fairing things up a bit.

     

     

  7. 5 hours ago, cdrusn89 said:

    I tried #56 and #57 bits for the hole and the #57 was too small and the #56 a bit too big even though 3/64s would be between a #56 and #55 according to my drill size chart. Oh well.

     

    When the right size hole seems to elude me, I have a set of something like these: Micro-Size Precision Reamers

     

    I don't think I paid that much, but it was over 20 years ago, so inflation probably means I did.

     

    I find them invaluable when it come to blocks and such..

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