Gregory

10 minutes ago, VTHokiEE said:

I’ve never used wipe on poly, but I decided to give it a try on this build.

The difference compared to post #108 is obvious..  looks great!

Chuck says he uses this stuff for his friezes .

Avery Glue Stick

Good idea to practice with some scrap and find what works best for you..

Minor update to show I'm still working..  

Planking above the wales complete.  A couple of coats of poly, with more to come.

Next up; inboard gunwales and cap rales.

I don't think the Syren is any less complicated, but the kit is better designed and the instructions are much better.

I think if you build a Syren you are happy with, the Rattlesnake will be less challenging and you will be better prepared to improve upon the kit and overcome any shortcomings.

Work goes on..

For me, the planking is more than one project. I switch back and forth between above and below the wales.  

Port side above the wales is almost done.  The darker color on the left is where I am seeing how some poly will look.

Only three strakes below the wales so far.  I'm still doing some planning for tapering at the bow an broadening for the stern.  The kit uses 4mm wide planks and calls for 5 stealers at the stern.

I'm making my own 5mm planks out of veneer and will shape them to avoid stealers or drop planks.

This is my spilling technique that I am still refining. Good thing I have plenty of the veneer I am using.  I lay a piece of masking tape over the area where I want to put a plank, and trace it with pencil.

I lay it out flat on a piece of paper, which I then scan, and refine the shape in my editing programs.

I then use this pattern to cut out the plank with my laser. 

Needs a little trimming for a tight fit, but it lays flat with no further bending required.

No pictures of my scrap bin while I was refining this process..😁

Looking ahead:

I won't be using the cast quarter badges that came with the kit.

As with the transom, I will try to put together something based on the Chapelle drawings.

26 minutes ago, mfrazier said:

Can someone please explain what this is?

Do you have any more context?  A broader view of the plans?

I found this in Longridge.

On 4/28/2020 at 9:22 AM, ccoyle said:

I wish we had some pictures of it here.

Here are some pictures for you..

Don Dressel SOS..

The laser cut keel and stem are a nice improvement over the old design.

However, I would have preferred if the pieces defined the rabbet and the bearding line.

This shows where the plans define the rabbet and the bearding line. The dark area under the overlaid plans is where the laser cut parts actually sit along the backbone. ( The placement of bulkhead #2 is an error on the plans, but doesn't affect the build. )

The plans, btw, are pretty much a duplicate of the old Mamoli plans, except where they illustrate the new parts, but provide nothing in the way of explaining how the building of the kit would be any different.

Here is how I etched the rabbet and bearding line onto the laser cut parts.  I also etched the scarf onto the stem to add a little extra detail.

Here is my little jig for getting a tight fit of the parts.  The grey thing in the middle is a diving weight to keep the pieces flat while the glue is setting.

A dry fit of the bulkheads is nice and tight.  I had to sand the slots a little bit, otherwise they were a little too tight.  The bulkheads are perfectly symmetrical, and match the plans perfectly.  Dusek has done a superior job in this regard.  The plywood is very good quality; the best I've seen in any kit.

I still need to do some fairing before I glue the frames together;  then on with the planking.

Here is a tip when considering Mamoli/Dusek kits.

Most retailers will have the new Dusek kits, but if you are shopping on eBay etc., you may see the original Mamoli versions.

This is what the box looks like for the older kits, and it will be similar for kits other than Gretel.

The Dusek kits will look like this.  Some of the older kits have not been reissued yet, but a lot/most of them have.

With the extra leisure  time on my hands I decided to break out another kit from my stash to have more to do while waiting for the glue to dry on my Resolution.

Mamoli/Dusek Gretel

This will be my 2nd time around with this kit.   For some reason I am attracted to Mamoli kits. even though they have their shortcomings compared to some of the other manufacturers.

My modeling goal is more of an art piece rather than an historically correct masterpiece,  and since some Mamoli kits seem rather whimsical in some respects, that may be why I am attracted to them.

I was attracted to Gretel because it looked small and simple, and the sort of thing that would make a nice gift for a family member.  I have a sister-in-law who was bugging me for a ship model, so that was what happened to the first kit; which I enjoyed building and led me to do it again.  I have some pics in the Gallery as seen in my signature.

This is the new Dusek resurrection of the kit, and it includes some features that myself and others might find as an improvement over the original Mamoli kits.

Mamoli says that Gretel is based on a Chapman drawing, and the lines confirm that.  Mamoli has made their own changes to some details, but not to the detriment of the model as far as I’m concerned. The changes mostly consist of simplifying some of the ornate work.

Duplicating that Chapman counter would be an interesting and challenging endeavor.  (... Hmmm,  Laser engraving might be an option. )

Here is an overview of the kit contents.

The relatively small number of parts compared to some of the monster kits we see, is refreshing in my opinion.

I just realize I didn't include a picture of the wood package, but it is a typical bundle of sticks and looks to be of good quality.  I will report any

problems if I encounter any.

Dusek has added a lot of laser cut parts, and they are a better fit than the stamped parts that Mamoli used to include.  

Dusek has added separate laser cut stem, keel and stern post, whereas Mamoli used to have you create those parts by applying veneer to the one piece backbone. 

I think the separate parts make for a better look, but the way Dusek has designed them is presenting some possible challenges.  More on that later.

Dusek has also replaced most of the cast ornamentation that was in the old Mamoli kit with some laser engraved pieces.  The wood is dark, and the details are there, but don’t show up as well in person, as they do in this picture.  I’m going to have to think about how to bring out the detail.  I don’t like to paint, but that may be part of the solution.

There are a few etched brass parts, which should make for a better finish in some areas than we had with the original kit.

I struggle to build out of the box, because I’m always seeing ways to do things differently.  That may have a lot to do with why it takes me so long to complete a kit. 

I am going to do my best to build this out of the box for the most part, because I think that helps others see that the kit should be all that you need to end up with a nice model.  However, I know I won’t be able to resist changing some details here and there, which I will point out when it happens.

I am actually a few hours into the build, so I will post an update soon.

4 hours ago, Paul_S said:

I sanded a bearding line in but with 1mm of first plank and 0.5 mm of second plank x 2 meant i needed to sand it down by 3mm total which is the thickness of the false keel so that didnt seem possible, i got it down pretty thin already and it still stood proud

Good information.  With all said and done, I have that kit in my stash, and will have to think about making that work when I get around to building it.

8 hours ago, Paul_S said:

How do i go about this in future?

What VTHokiEE is saying, is what I mentioned up thread.

The chisel may not work so well with MDF, but sand paper and files should do it.  If you have a rotary tool, a little drum sander would help if used carefully.

Just out of curiosity, what do you see as the problem with cutting the bulkheads?

Time to bite the bullet and share what we all know:  It's not always pretty.

My first planking is just about ready for the 2nd finishing layer. 

I don't like to use paint except in certain circumstances, which I will bring up later when I paint something. With that in mind, I am using a dark mahogany stain to accent the gun ports. 

Still have some details to work out with the bow gunwales. Fabricating some knight heads, not part of the kit plans, but  based on the Chapelle drawings.

Meanwhile, I am working on other details while the glue dries..

The kit includes a so-so cast transom, but it will not fit my vision for this model.

Again, I go to the Chapelle drawings for Ferret/Sharke.

These are my laser cut frames that I will incorporate into a cherry transom.

I don't think I will be attempting any detailed carving on this model, but will accent the shape of the transom and window frames with some moldings.

With a lot of time on my hands, I will hopefully have more updates soon.

I know the bar is set pretty high here, but if I were building that kit, my goal would be more of a piece of folk art.  I would use a lot of stain and varnish to get a wood look.  No paint, except for black in the masting and spars.

I think the metal details you showed would go good as is, except for something to knock the shine off.

Some nice scale rope would look nice rather than the " thread " usually included in kits.

Adding the yards to the masts in the proper manner gets my vote also..

Just my vision, and I respect that you might have other ideas.

It might make a nice gift for your mother-in-law.  In which case, I would build it as is.. 

While certainly not up to the standards of MSW, it would make a nice mantle piece that would get a lot of ooohs and aaahs from the average observer..

Looking through several build logs, it looks like they are using 3/16 planks.   They would certainly offer more flexibility when it comes to tapering.

1 hour ago, Tony Dee said:

Honestly two things worry me. 1. Planking and 2. Rigging lol

That's kind of like saying the only thing worrying you about building a house is sawing and nailing..😄

2 hours ago, Ponto said:

I would think that a person would have to have experience with each brand.

The poll is only asking for individual experience with brands you have had experience with.   If you are not familiar with a brand, you do not respond to questions regarding that brand.

The poll results are a reflection of those responses.  A failure to respond to a question, affects the results accordingly.

While it may be a little more work, getting info on a particular kit means looking at the build log data base, and in the build logs themselves.

While there are not very many, you can get a better idea of a particular kit in the review forum.

Hopefully, more members will submit reviews; even more so when they have a bad experience.

18 hours ago, robert Lamba said:

The poll would be of more help if people would state their building experience and explain why they up voted or down voted a particular kit.

There is no option to up vote, or down vote a particular kit. 

Anyone can start their own poll if they are looking for other opinions.

Did you complete the poll?

7 minutes ago, robert Lamba said:

The poll would be of more help if people would state their building experience and explain why they up voted or down voted a particular kit.

The poll is intended to rate the the experience we have with the various manufacturers. 

 It would balloon out of control if it were a poll about our experience with every kit.

You can get a pretty good idea of how someone feels about a particular kit by looking at build logs, or checking for a review.

You can also glue on pieces of soft wood like basswood, then sand back to shape.

What is your source?  What is the context?

It sounds like some type of laminating technique to reduce warping.

However, I've never heard it mentioned here before.

I've used these blades from Amazon with very good results. The kerf is a bit more than I would like, but they are a fraction of the cost of Proxxon or Micromark blades.

They have 10mm arbor.

Avenger AV-34024-5 Combination cut saw Blade

I found this on Amazon UK.  Looks like it could be the same thing unlabled.

ZhuJinSheng Cutting Disk 1pcs Out Diameter 85mm 24T/36T Mini Circular Saw Blade Wood Cutting Blade