Gregory

No update for a while but I haven't been entirely idle.

I have almost completed the first planking, but it is uglier than I would care to share  at the moment..

I have continued work on my gun carriages. Fine tuning the design, and experimenting with different wood, in an effort to come up with a final plan.

Meanwhile, I'm still exploring the use of my laser cutter to refine what can be done with this kit.

When it comes to planking the deck, I like to do it off of the ship.  I print the deck plan on tracing paper, then glue the planks onto the paper.

This is a first effort with planks made from maple veneer with my laser cutter.  I feel the laser char takes care of the simulated  caulking.

(.. to be honest, not the first effort, but the first time I'm happy enough to show what I've come up with )  

I hope to be showing more progress in the near future.

Anyone who has experimented with fabricating their own parts, can probably attest to the amount of time you can spend trying to get it perfect, which never really happens.

Do you have a lower end 2D photo editing program with layers, such as Photoshop Elements or Corel Paint shop?

Sorry for the confusion..  I was replying to VTHokiEE regarding the laser he linked to on Amazon..

I have had one of those for a while.  They do some serious cutting.  ( not metal )

You need to be ready to do a little modification to make it versatile, but you can google " K40 " laser modifications,

and see a lot of useful information.

I have heard some people having a bad experience with out of the box alignment problems, or not working at all.

I was fortunate not to have any problems other than the learning curve.

On 3/10/2020 at 4:50 AM, wefalck said:

The glitch is that you can only export/print it from the 'pro' version which costs a moderate 150€.

Does it actually give you a " flat " rendering on the screen?  You could do a screen capture , and do some size tweaking in a drawing program where you have print capabilities..

Maybe for the strap seen here:

If I recall, all my ModelExpo orders have come by USPS Priority mail.  It looks like an 8oz package from Miami to Rhode Island is $8.45

When you figure shipping materials and time spent, $9.95 doesn't seem to be out of line.

It sounds like John is being a real nice guy if he's giving you shipping credit..

The interpretation appears to be logical in some respects, like the braces and vang.  The topmast doesn't look right. 

But there are others who know far more than me.

Here are the Chapman Drawings

The description is Pleasure boat or Yacht.  No mention of Dutch, so that was my mistake. 

7 hours ago, ajromano said:

This is actually a nice looking little boat,

The plans are based on a Chapman drawing of a dutch pleasure yacht..  I'll post a picture later..

Something to be aware of in that new Dusek version of the kit.   The base for the cabin roof is too small.  You will need to make a new one based on the plans..

25 minutes ago, SpyGlass said:

I really cant figure where that bend would sit

You seem to be familiar with spilling..  You might try this:

Take a piece of masking tape and lay it lengthwise on a plank that is on the ship, preferably one that butts up against the stem.  Trace the outline of the plank onto the tape.  Lay the tape out flat, and you should see how the plank is bent.

2 hours ago, DelF said:

Famous last words! The next pair of planks after I wrote this I managed to bend the wrong way, despite drawing arrows on them  pointing the right way. So much for slow and careful; at leasdt it was easy to put right.

 

Derek

They didn't fit on the other side?  😄

They are having a sale right now.  Great discounts on some kits, and free domestic shipping for a $75 order..   $49 flat rate for international orders..

I have to resist..  Too many kits on the shelf..

My thought would be to make one piece, then cut and shape after it is in place.    More friendly than using two small pieces.

On 2/20/2020 at 4:22 PM, dnevin said:

I am having trouble creating even tension on the spider lines from the trestle tree to the main topmast stay. Any advice will be appreciated.

Are you trying to set it up, on or off the ship?

You might find it easier to set it up off the ship in a jig of some sort, then stiffen it a little with diluted white glue before setting up on the ship..

My point about sheave holes.

You could finish them until the shape looks like Chuck's blocks, but the sheave hole in the middle blows the whole deal.

I tried one of those rock tumblers on the typical kit blocks, and it took over a week of tumbling just to knock the edges off.

Still had to do some work to define the sheaves, and of course it was no help at all when the sheave holes were near the center like you find on so many of them.

Syren came along, and i never looked back,,

I have seen other logs where the builders commented on what might be over sized cannon in the kit.

Do the plans have a view of the cannon adjacent the gun ports?

On 2/10/2020 at 10:55 PM, moreplovac said:

One wheel handle is cracked; need a bit of hiding or repairing...

What size is that ships wheel?

Might be a good excuse to get one of Chuck's Ships Wheel kits.

The curve appears to me to be very subtle, unless this is a matter of the angle on this picture.

Looking back at Chuck's  build log, the curve is really hard to see until the molding is added.

At the risk of sounding negative, how often do you really need a "crisp" hole that is not going to be covered by some type of framing, such as mast partners or other framing.

At the least, any round hole would probably need some kind of beveling

The frames have to be built up from the supplied strip wood..  There should be more wood than what is shown in the picture above.

More like this:

FWIW the Mamoli  Valient is totally fictitious..   

It shares the same lines as two other Mamoli kits:   Portsmouth and Blue Shadow, also fictitious apparently.  Mamoli Has re-boxed a lot of kits  ( in the past before Dusek took over the line ),

changing details and giving them different names.  For instance, their Surprise is a re-boxed La Glorie.

I built the Blue Shadow a while back, and it made a pretty nice mantle piece until the cat sent it to Davey Jones locker..

Here is a carbide tipped blade I have used with good success..   MTP 3 3/8 10mm arbor

I don't think the Micromark blades are any better, and they cost 7 x as much..

11 hours ago, Rcboater Bill said:

I have a Micromark table saw that was given to me.

Do you have a model number or a picture of the saw.  I have an old Microlux that looks a lot like the current Micromark saw.

I can turn you on to some excellent blades I have found for ripping plywood.  The kerf is pretty big,  so they are not very desirable for fine woods..  Too much waste.