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shipman

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Everything posted by shipman

  1. Hi Bruma. I'd be tempted to make my own bowsprit and yards, the kit ones are very fragile. I too got those decorative photo-etch thingies and also worried about glue everywhere. You made a tidy job of them. The place you got them from also does proper scale drilled ball stanchions, which the brass wire threads through in a very convincing way. Of course if you wish to spend more than what the kit costs, the above items, plus scale brass belay pins and a range of blocks go a long way to reduce some if not all the outdated clunkiness of Ravels 60 year old moulding. A well presented rendition of this basically good kit (with a bit of time and money) is a worthwhile endeavour and in my humble opinion is far more accurate than any of the wooden kits on the market. I understand someone from Revel did visit and research the vessel in the mid 50's. In fact their very first hull moulding included the full row of port holes down each side. Those seem to be a throwback to the time she was a sea cadet training ship before coming out of the water for good. Keep at it friend, you are doing fine.
  2. Yep, you can only breathe so much life into an old corpse. You did good. When these kits were introduced, they were sold for kids pocket money. I actually think we were lucky to have them, faults and all. Those upper windows are begging to be replaced with photo-etch. But then it becomes a different story altogether. Thanks for sharing.
  3. Not a lot wrong there, lad. Well done. Just had a thought (you'd have to do a test).....Lightly flood ALL the windows......dry thoroughly.......then with a fine abrasive, skim over the area with the windows until you get back to a white surface. ???? Then you have the delightful job of drilling all the round port holes out! I reckon there's someone on this forum quite capable of fitting out the interior, with independent cabin lighting.
  4. Good luck trying to dry brush white over black! Another issue with the windows (I could be wrong)....directly below boat davits, there shouldn't be windows as that area is part of the support structure. Once that little detail sinks in, it bugs you every time you look at it. Another solution may be to use your pc and printer to make decals for the windows. Of course you'd have to fill the moulded windows first; not the end of the world. Unfortunately long term uv turns even the best decals yellow. Once upon a time It may have been practical to use a 'Letraset' product. Like many useful things, that is now a thing of the past. I continue to watch this space.
  5. Proper India Ink is waterproof when dry, but it has to be used on an absorbent ground. It will dry on semi glossy paper, but takes forever. It's no good on plastic or an enamel finish.
  6. I've never been a big fan of (naff) thread for the rails, whatever the colour. One cheap alternative (which I've never seen) would be stretched sprue.
  7. Mmm......you've touched on the subject of bone as a modelling material. I've often wondered how the stuff is cleaned and prepared for use. I built up a small collection of old bone spoons, but you don't find them anymore. They do develop interesting patina. Once cured and treated, how does it cut, saw etc? Folk do sell some colosal raw bones on the net. My dog is wagging her tail......I know she likes a bone.
  8. Another splendid rendition of this venerable kit; well done. A long debated feature of the ship and the kit is the arrangement of the anchor chain deck layout. I see what you did with yours and appreciate you put some thought into it and made alterations, which I find (at least) convincing.
  9. The feature you mention on the ship as she is today is as depicted on the kit. To the rear of the poop 'monkey deck', just in front of the wheel, is another door/companion way. The kit doesn't include that. Apparently that was an addition during Portugese ownership. I can only assume this was retained to give a one way flow of visitors.
  10. I wouldn't let a clumsy person near a screwdriver. But I do appreciate your point of view.
  11. Lathes, milling machines, band saws, bench saws, Proxon this, Proxon that. When did this hobby become a rich man;s preserve? Oh, I forgot, you will never get the affluent to admit to having enough. There's never been a ship model subject that couldn't be entirely built using simple hand tools and a will to do it.
  12. My brother built this impressive kit in the 70's. At that time it was sold at a price that a kid could buy for a few weeks (modest) pocket money. It's now £100. No surprise there, then!
  13. Hi wefalck. I have Unimat SL and 3. Never seen a filing rest made or adapted for these.....any suggestions, please.
  14. Welcome to the forum, Genny. I'm a sort of passive member from South Yorkshire. We know about GRIM. Happy times here at MSW.
  15. Shame on you.......you've just let down the OCD element here. Sometimes too much is never enough. Me thinks you've made the right decision with the blocks.
  16. It's worth remembering that pre WW2 the lightest covering for all sorts of bodywork was doped linen over an ash framework. Aircraft being the height of technology. If you wanted compound curves then aluminium was the choice. Steel bodies were and still are much heavier, but are cheaper to make. Slap a coat of paint on and 'hey who cares, it looks good'.
  17. Question? Was the 'body' of the real car fabric? If it was, gloss isn't an option.
  18. By 'armistice flags', do you mean the tri-colour stripes on the turrets? I don't know if they were the markings given to neutral warships during the Spanish civil war; RN ships had the same at that time.
  19. Dafi produces his photo etch from his own pocket as far as I can tell. His sheet of hooks, ringbolts dwarfs any other options out there. I forgot the numbers, but you're in the thousands. Makes $0.99 for 20 look pathetic. He does lots of other useful etch..... do yourself a favour and check his site.
  20. Don't forget these.......I got some and wasn't disappointed. A no brainer in my opinion. http://www.dafinismus.de/plates_en#anker7
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