allanyed
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Laser cannon bracket
allanyed replied to mediocremodeler's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
What English and Spanish patterns, calibers and lengths do you have ? Lengths are often a problem. For example designated 9 foot barrels (108") are not 9 feet long overall, but rather closer to 119". Thanks Allan -
Dan, I have the draw plate you posted in the photo and the draw plate from Jim Byrnes. No comparison as to quality and accuracy as the Byrnes is superior in all aspects. I use bamboo for many things, including tree nails. I can take most bamboo species down to 0.016" which is the equivalent of 1" at 1:64 or 0.75" at 1:48. Bamboo skewers typically work best in my experience plus they are subtle in color in addition to being at the proper scale. I split the skewers so they can pass through the largest diameter hole then pass the piece through each hole two or three times at a slight angle, then to the next smallest hole until I get to the diameter I need. Donna Byrnes indicates accessories are available so you may be in luck. https://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/drawplate5.html Allan
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Hi Mediocre Welcome to MSW😀. It would be great if you posted a little introduction about yourself in the new member forum here at MSW. As this topic is about Blomefield pattern guns you may want to post your kind offer in a new topic as yours is something else and may attract a wider audience. The barrel in the last photo looks very nicely done, but I cannot place the pattern it represents. Allan
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Hello from British Columbia!
allanyed replied to sixtythousandbees's topic in New member Introductions
Monique There is a full set of high resolution drawings of the Enterprise (28) 1774 and her class on the Wiki Commons site that you might useful whether you are looking to build a kit, modify a kit, or scratch build. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich They are on page 8 and include drawings of the following. Enterprize (1774), Siren (1773), Fox (1773), Surprize (1774), Acteon (1775), Medea (1778), Serpine (1777), Andromeda (1777), Aurora (1777), Sibyl (1779), Brilliant (1779), Pomona (1778), Crescent (1779), Nemesis (1780), RMG There is a set for Enterprise 1848 as well, but obviously a totally different ship. Allan -
Heater for sealing the end of rigging rope.
allanyed replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Snipping off the end of any line can be tricky. I prefer using professional barber shears as they are so sharp, but many folks love nail clippers to snip the Irish pennant once the knot is finished. Allan -
Hello from British Columbia!
allanyed replied to sixtythousandbees's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome aboard! Is your dory kit the Antscherl designed kit from Model Shipways. If so, you picked the best starter available. With the three kit series, you will learn great skills and habits that will carry over to other very accurate and more complex models such as those from Syren Ship Models. Allan -
Heater for sealing the end of rigging rope.
allanyed replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
HI Dave, Cotton does not melt, but dry cotton will burn at about 420 degrees F. (232.22C). Once lit, cotton thread can act like a fuse and continue to burn. Cotton will ignite spontaneously at about 760F. Other sealing methods that you mention have been discussed ad infinitum and each method has its fans and detractors. Whatever you find works best for you is the way to go. Allan -
I've lost it....need a refresher to get my confidence back
allanyed replied to bigcreekdad's topic in Wood ship model kits
Anything from Chuck Passaro or David Antscherl's three craft series. https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-Shipwright-3-Kit-Combo-Series_p_5465.html https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/hms-winchelsea-1764.php Allan -
Endeavour by Bill97 - OcCre - 1/54
allanyed replied to Bill97's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
I realize she was not a warship and it may be an OcCre design, but FWIW and maybe for the future, the deck planking shift patterns on British ships, according to Peter Goodwin in The Construction of and Fitting of the English Man of War, page 58, were as follows: He goes on to say that these shift patterns were necessary so the deck was not weak. Allan
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Endeavour by Bill97 - OcCre - 1/54
allanyed replied to Bill97's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
This is an incredibly important comment if a realistic model is part of your goal. In addition to the planking tutorials in the Articles data base here at MSW, if you have not already done so, study the four part tanking tutorial videos. Part one-- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCWooJ1o3cM Allan -
Hello everyone, a beginner dips his toe.
allanyed replied to Gaz's topic in New member Introductions
Fàilte to MSW Gaz!!!! Allan -
Hi Paul, 😀Not splitting hairs at all, just genuinely curious about the origins of terminology in the various eras and how, why and when some terms changed. Cheers Allan
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Just saw this post string and it brings up a terminology question as it was confusing in the first post. On English ships of the 17th century and into the 19th century (maybe earlier and later??) lights at the galleries and stern are the windows, not lamps or lanterns. Did this change circa 1855 as Pat mentions above such that the lanterns and lanterns on clipper and other ships were then called lights and the lights became known as windows or some other term such as bullseyes and portholes? Not a major thing, just curious. Tx Allan
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Rob, I TRULY hope all goes well for you!! I have recently been doing some more studying of the Portland class as the 50 gun ships of any era are probably my favorites. This is very late to the table--- Christian mentioned I think that Portland has the conventional framing pattern with double and single frames. This made sense to me but I just noticed a few days ago that on the framing plan for Portland there is a note that there are to be dry pieces of oak between every frame. They show an example of these pieces at station O. Whether this carried over to the later ships of the class I have no idea, but barring additional contemporary information to the contrary, I think one could argue there were no double frames. Allan
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Welcome to MSW Louise!! Made it to Cape Town, East London, and Durban way back in the day, but unfortunately missed Cape St. Francis (surf's up), and Mossel Bay both of which we wanted to visit. Beautiful part of the world, sharks and all. Allan
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Wherever you decide to paint the bottom, the line would usually be parallel with the earth. Your photo appears to have a curve to the tape. There are hundreds of photos you can check out of contemporary models on the RMG Collections site, including the one at https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66510 In any case, if you want a very clean line, before painting, spray a couple clear coats which will seal the tape at the edge. Afterwards, after you paint the color and it has dried peel off the tape it will be a very straight line. Allan
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I agree with Daniel that fixing the yards makes things easier and it will also provide security over the many years to follow. I use small diameter brass rod as described in The Fully Framed Model volume IV. Most importantly follow Daniel's advice about pre rigging as much as possible on the yards before hanging on the masts. For a LOT of great detail on rigging my two favorites are James Lees' Masting and Rigging and David Antscherl's The Fully Framed Model volume 4 and his sail making supplement. The order of dressing in TFFM is more user friendly for modelers than the OOD in Lees which I believe was that which was done on actual ships. Allan
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WELCOME TO MSW!!!! Allan
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Blacky, I have all of the Ardent (1764), Ardent (1782) and Anson 1781 plans in high resolution downloaded as they are available on the Wiki Commons site. With the deck plans and Inboard profile you should have everything you need. I would attach here for you but each is 35mb to 70 mb. Go to the Wiki site https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich Pages 1 and 4 have all the drawings for the above vessels in high res. You can also contact Bucklers Hard to see what information they have on Agamemnon. They were very helpful in the past when I was doing a lot of research on Euryalus which was also built at Bucklers Hard. Allan
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Hi Chris Sorry if my question raised more questions. It is probably easier to look at similar discussions here at MSW when this was raised on another build. I suspect your kit does not address this as only two kit makers I now of appear to give this any attention even though it is found on virtually every RN ship in the 17th to early 19th centuries. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34577-taper-of-the-keel-stem-knee-of-the-head-and-stern-post/#comment-986943 and https://modelshipworld.com/topic/32748-hms-bellona-by-nearshore-corel-1100/page/2/#comment-982279 Post #40 Just as the stern post narrows in breadth from the upper portion down to match the keel, the stem also reduces in breadth so it matches the breadth of the keel where they meet at the boxing joint as the keel tapers in breadth for and aft from midships. Looking down on the knee of the head from above it also tapers from the stem down to about 6 inches at the area of the figure head on a 74. I do not have my books with me so not sure on a first rate, but I am guessing it would be similar. In the end, as with the majority of kit makers, most model builders are not aware of the tapering or are not overly concerned with it so it will likely never be noticed if not done. The downside is that the figure head, if a carved person will surely be bowlegged. 😀 Allan
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Looking good Chris. Hard to tell from the photos if the knee of the head and stem have been tapered which would be a significant amount. Do the instructions indicate how much the stem is to be tapered vertically and knee of the head from the stem to the seat of the figure head? Allan
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At your scale, the method of assembly of the ratlines themselves makes sense but how do you secure/wrap the shroud pairs around the mast? What is the spacing from ratline to ratline? Many thanks Allan
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FWIW Bellona coppering. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66299 Copper is over the rudder hardware.
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Hopefully Ed Tosti (Naiad and Young America) sees this and can add some information. I had the privilege to visit him at his home quite a few years ago and see his collection of miniature military figures prior to his fabulous work on the ship models and books. I have never seen better representation than his collection. Maybe PM Ed to ask if he can lend some advice/methods based on his experience. Allan
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