yvesvidal
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Everything posted by yvesvidal
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I have had some success with Future Floor on the Bellona hull. After a few months and multiple manipulations, the copper is taking its natural course with very little tarnish. I do not know if you can find that chemical in the UK. Most likely. Yves
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Once you cover it with clear coat, it should last a decent time. I think that is what John intends to do. Yves
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I agree with you Chris, this would be the ultimate Assembly Guide for that specific model. Very well illustrated and excellent references throughout. Yves
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These kits can be a little bit on the crude side at times, but you are doing a fantastic job with them. Yves
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Hollowneck, I did not use that medieval torture tool for the Bellona. I used a pouncing wheel, driven by a ruler to mark each tile (25 mm x 8 mm) one time on each side: That was not too bad, in retrospect. Yves
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After coppering the massive hull of the Bellona, I swear by the Copper Tape and the rivet tool (wheel). The tape is flexible enough to accommodate all the slight imperfections and you do not have to use CA glue. I taped 2400 plates after stamping them with the wheel (9600 passes). Finally, the cost of the tape is about 1/10th the price of the copper tiles. Yves
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Don't give up Andreas. You are doing great with this difficult model. Yves
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Thank you Allan, but yes I am aware of these pictures. For the Quarterdeck, I used this one: For the forecastle, I will be using the following picture: Yves
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Some progress on the mid-ship section. This part took some time for completion because of two major issues: lack of ladders to go from the gangways to Quarterdeck/Forecastle and the length of the booms supporting the long boat and pinnaces. Fortunately, Tom from CAF Model was very quick to correct the problem and sent me some extra parts to remedy the situation. The assembly of the gangways is done in the following way: It is overall very delicate, but once glued to the bulwarks, it is not too bad. The first issue is illustrated below: How do you go from the gangway to the Quarterdeck (or Forecastle, for that matter)? Obviously, something is missing. Tom was kind enough to design some small ladders with 2 or 3 steps and that solves the issue: The second problem was the short length of the booms used to stow the pinnaces: About 5 mm on each side, were missing. Again, Tom designed for me six additional booms to remedy the situation: One of the kit boom was used as a beam at the front of the Poop deck. Overall, we now have a mid-section that looks decent: I have only assembled half of the main capstan, as I need room to work on the forecastle. Overall views: To complete the quarterdeck, I still need to assemble six small guns: Et voila the entire beast. Time to migrate the working crew to the boom and forecastle: I hope you are enjoying the progress of that huge model, as much as I do... :-) Yves
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I am now working on the top of the Poop deck. But before doing that, I have to flip the hull to access in a more comfortable position the ceiling of the rear balcony. That delicate operation is done with the help of a friend. The hull is now close to 20 pounds in weight and all the protruding guns are very fragile: The Copper tape has been doing great after a few months and is gaining that reddish golden color that makes it so attractive. Most likely, this is the last time I will have to do this kind of acrobatic stunts. Of course, having the Poop deck bulwarks, full and re-unforced, allows to flip the heavy hull without any damages. After working and finishing the ceiling, the top of the Poop deck can now be completed: The kit does not provide chicken coops and other cages for animals and birds to be installed on the Poop deck. Poop deck Railing... Ladders.... These are too short from the kit. I had to modify them and add an extra step on the top. The veranda to provide light into the main cabins.... and the bitts for the mizzen mast: Overall view of the Quarterdeck and Poop deck: I think it is time to move to the middle of the ship and mostly to the bow..... Yves
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So, Valeriy, who is the lucky (and wealthy) recipient of your model ? I suspect you built that model as a commission. Yves
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What a nerve wracking story !!! Maybe the primer did not react correctly with the paint you used.... Overall, you saved the day and a few blemishes make the model more realistic. Yves
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Allan, I just used the first picture of Post #362 and tried to represent the beam located above the wheels. I think it is a nicer way to end the poop deck. I also went back for the past two pages and made some corrections to the vocabulary. Thank you Allan for being thorough and forcing me to look up the right terms to describe the various parts of that ship. The lack of description and technical terms in the provided instructions does not help to learn all these new terms. Yves
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Allan, you are correct: Dinghies was an extremely poor choice of vocabulary. I should have said Long Boat, Pinnaces and Cutters. Thank you for the correction. Yves
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You could have used small 3 mm or 2 mm White LED. It is probably too late to wire the inside of the hull and I am not exactly sure what these prisms are for: Light tunnels to bring sunlight in the lower decks or Display light when the vessel is in a port. A French modeler used that technique on his superb 1/32 Amati Endeavor Class-J: Yves
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The planking of the poop deck is finished. A few more coats of Wipe-On-Poly and it will be perfect (at least in my eyes): Various pictures showing the implementation: Finished: Merry Christmas to all members of MSW !!! Yves
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With such jig, you are ready for mass production 🙂 Great work, it looks sharp and neat. Yves
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One of the new parts that I ordered from Tom (CAF Model) was an extended set of beams to support the Longboat, Cutters and other Pinnaces. In addition, when you look at a picture of the Model in the National Maritime Museum, the upper deck is presented with a small beam in the front. That detail is missing from the kit and I decided to use one of the the short boats stowing beams, as a substitute for that missing poop deck beam. This is where we are: The beam is glued under the poop deck sub-floor: It finishes the poop deck in a much more realistic way: Now is the time to build the starboard bulwark and to do a lot of dust: The main railings are glued: And this is where we are: Ready for planking: Yves
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Before closing the second half of the poop deck, it was necessary to assemble four more 9 pounder guns: Again, the bulwark is built and strengthened with pieces of wood. Note that the triangular sides of the bulwarks provided in the kit are not large enough and need to be extended for a full coverage of the poop deck. Yves
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Before being able to close the second half of the poop deck sub-floor, I needed to assemble the wheels. The kit provides two axial circles to help you put together this very delicate part of the kit: To be honest, I could not put it together as designed: it did not make sense. In my opinion, you need three layers to sandwich the brass bars and make it possible. The kit only provides 24 circular sections for two wheels and that is not enough. Thus, I decided to contact Tom of CAF Model and ask him for extra parts (I also needed extra parts for other locations and that will be described later on). In a very quick time, Tom designed all the parts I needed, cut them on his laser machines and sent me everything for $23 plus $20 for postage. I was truly impressed by the speed and small price to pay to get all the extra parts and I sincerely hope these additional parts will be included in the future Session #5 contents. Below is the new sheet, including enough circular sections to build multiple wheels, new ladders and a bag of 24 brass pins for the wheels. With these new parts, it is now possible to assemble delicately the wheels: Each wheel is comprised of 18 wood parts, 12 brass parts and the hub made with brass washers = 32 parts total. The above took me multiple days and is super tedious. By far, one of the most difficult step in this kit. To put everything together, I designed a small platform to install the wheel, the drum and the rope: The height under the sub-floor is very limited at 31 mm, and the fit is very ...very tight: Yves
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Moving on with the poop deck. Now is the time to place a lid on all the Officer's apartments. Again, I have broken free of the CAF Model sequence of instructions, as they do not make any sense to me. Therefore, I am describing how I managed to build that part of the model: As usual, I am proceeding with "halves" for a better control of the glue and more precise positioning of the decks. Before, gluing the poop sub-floor, it is necessary to work and place the round cover above the rear balcony: That part is provided in plywood in the kit and not prone to bending, even heavily soaked. Therefore, I cut another similar part in a sheet of plain wood (3 mm thick) and after a copious soaking in alcohol, I managed to bend it round and adjust it accordingly. It is tedious but must be done carefully for optimal results. You can see below, how this section will look like: On the front side of the poop deck, it does not look too bad: And a bird's view: The half poop deck is then glued and heavily pressed to make sure the thick plywood (2 mm) is installed correctly. Here again, I wish CAF Model would provide thinner sub-floors of 1.5 or even 1 mm thick. I have to say that once it is glued, that stuff is rock solid. The next step is to fill up with wood scraps the bulwark, after gluing the siding. A lot of dust is made in the process and your best friend remains the ashes vacuum cleaner. A little bit of red paint and things are already more pleasant: You can see (below) how thick and solid the bulwarks are. The railing will be glued directly on top: Yves
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Superb work on the bulwarks. It is never easy to do them right. Yves
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So pretty and realistic. It reminds me of some great days spent sailing on the local lakes or on the Pamlico bay. Yves
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