Jasseji

1 minute ago, hollowneck said:

Maybe this pic will help, Jasseji.

With this high magnification, a lot of things show-up that don't normally meet the eye! You'll likely note that I changed the configuration of the lower gallery finishing piece "drop"- this is also very dependent on the alignment of the MDF slot pieces to build the gallery.

Cheers,

Ron

wait, but your stern fascia is exactly how mine is, now i dont understand completely

2 minutes ago, James H said:

 

It's no biggie. You can (possibly) extend lower counter, or scrap it and build from planking strips. 

wait a sec, lower counter was until the 1st nicks in the stern timbers, upper counter covered the 2nd nick

after fitting the counters it looks exactly as in step 197

my upper counter and upper inner fascia are on CA

i dont understand how extending the lower counter should help at this stage

18 minutes ago, James H said:

It definitely needs to be higher. Approx 2mm above height of bulwarks. 

 

There's a note in the instructions about this and the need for the lower counter to be in the correct position. 

awww crap, i used CA to glue the Stern Fascia.........

also, i already glued one gallery before noticing that.

I'm used to follow instructions step by step, and the note about the 2-3mm is on the next page 😕

Wait a sec, should the Stern Fascia be higher ? @James H

Looking at the Trinc tho (i know she is a later ship) the coppering goes very high, in case of the Sphinx if you go that high, it would cover all of the 2nd Planking:

10 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

You could always copper her, the real thing was coppered in 1781.🤔

 

B.E.

That's the other thing i am thinking about, but coppering wouldnt cover up to the stern counter (or would it ?) 

10 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

Looks like she's casting a critical eye, I hope she likes it.

 

I do, her lines, (the model, not the cat) look elegant, nice job, Jacek.

 

 

B.E.

She's looking what misfit she can do, forgot already the scare she got when she fell with the box...

Ye, the black wale really adds to the model, this is the port non-display side, moving on to the other but i am already considering if i wouldnt want to paint the whole area below the wales white (there are some places especially at the stern which i dont really like and would prefer to cover them up)

Witaj Adam, i am from Krakow but i moved to Germany a few years ago

18 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

That’s the beauty of wood not much that cannot be repaired, unless of course your cat is into arson. 😉 Then I should worry.

 

B.E.

 

The Moment she starts burning stuff, I'll burn her own fur, That should keep her from ideas

Fixes 

1 hour ago, glennard2523 said:

Hopefully it can be repaired.

yes, it broke off cleanly, only real damage is the laser-engraved patter on the port side, but i was able to glue it back on and the joint isnt visible.

I also did an inventory of the Box contents to see if nothing was damaged, a single plank was indeed from the 22-foot boat but the damage is minor - phew 

My new 300eur PC/Phone headset wasnt that lucky, it sports some nice scratches now...

wales pinned in place on both sides, starboard side looks better (and this is my "display" side)

Waiting for CA gel delivery and will let the patterns dry out through the night

The cat just threw down the heavy box with all the Sphinx pieces down from the shelf while i was pinning the wale...

On the other hand, i did manage to pin the wale pattern in place after having soaked it extensively, i hope i can get all pins out

Thanks @chris watton and @James H i will try again to soak and bend, if it doesnt work with just the provided pinholes, i'll add more (although i was hoping to avoid those ugly holes)

17 minutes ago, James H said:

You're wrapping that around a compound curve, and there are small holes to allow you to pin it to the hull while it dries out. Alternatively, you can use elastic bands or tape to hold it around the the hull curve that affects the narrow width of the part while it dries. 

I understand But that much? 

It seems to me that that those parts should almost be straight otherwise the bottom Lifts off the hull when I try to force it in place. 

I will try to re-soak it tomorrow and maybe use an iron to heat it when in place

To ilustrate my problem, this is how the pieces seem to Want to be when lied flush to the hull:

1 hour ago, glbarlow said:

Buy more CA?

Yup, Amazon order placed, 2 days waiting. 

I'll have to re-soak those wales and try to bend them different (actually, seems i need to straighten them) 

6 hours ago, James H said:

That looks really nice! 

Thank you all, now i am running into the issue, how to attach the wales, i ran out of CA glue and with PVA the strip warps 

I dont really want to make too much pin holes but i get a "clinkering" effect when trying to place it in the position it should be

Sanding... 

Luckily Thats the last major sanding in this model... 

8 minutes ago, Chuck said:

Nicely done.  Neat and tidy.   

 

Chuck

far from tidy but it will be invisible i didnt show the worst glue spots

4 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

That must be a relief Jacek, the planks seem to be sitting nicely against the stem at the bow, did you have a rabbet to assist the process.

 

B.E.

the model comes with a natural rabbet after you do the 1st planking you add the laser-etched thin pieces on the stem and keel - step 155

A rabbet is formed by those pieces

It took me 4 weeks to stop procrastrinating and finally finish the 2nd planking:

Now onto the next steps:

1. add filler in big holes

2. paint all with diluted PVA 

3. Mask off lasered areas

4. Saaaaand

26 minutes ago, DaveBaxt said:

That is a 'Blast from the past' I didn't know they still made wooden pegs. I thought every thing was made in plastic these days.Second planking is looking great! Dis you lay the first one at the top and work your way down or by the position of the pegs it looks to be the other way round?

he;s only started the 2nd planking - first you need to put the 2 laser-engraved pieces on each side which for the bulwarks and wales, then you plank from below deck level

3 hours ago, Malazan said:

I have two questions actually 

 

1. Is it easier to plank in long strips, or in shorter pieces?

 

2. Does anyone have a good video of someone cutting the Rabbet, I’m terrified of starting this process 😆 

Cant comment on 2. but i found that it is easier to plank in SOME areas if you cut the plank in half (or do a little "stepping" like one plank to bulhead for instance 6, 2nd one cut at 5, 3rd at 6 etc.)

This is helpful especially to separate planks which need to be tapered and bended both on bow and stern (also if you find the plank is screwed up on one end but good on the other end, you dont need to redo it, especially if you do it on 2nd planking and use CA Glue then ripping out a plank is a no-go)

Garboard i found doing in one go is best, also when doing planking in invisible areas i do the easier end like 5 planks stepped to different bulheads and then bother with the harder end