Jasseji

26 minutes ago, Egilman said:

Hi Jacek,

 

I need the larger build area specifically cause I'm going to be building one of these......

Easiest way is to 3D print it rather than scratchbuild it.... 1/72nd scale to fit the Dragon Saturn V....

 

But first, I have to create the files.....

 

Big mountain to climb....

There is definitely a "nice to have" if it comes to larger build areas, i am trying to figure out the downsides (apart from definite model size) from getting a smaller printer up front and then perhaps switching down the road

6 hours ago, Egilman said:

Hi Mike,

 

I went with the Mono X for it's build area of 192x120x245... Anycubic didn't respond to my email about the missing resin today, probably take a couple of days so I went ahead and ordered a liter from amazon... I've downloaded Chitobox free and see I have another learning process to go thru...

 

Right now, I just want to get this up and running.... I will probably turn to water based resins eventually once I learn a bit more to save the costs of large quantities of IPA... I think even with water based resins the Wash & Cure will be an asset to keep things efficient....

 

Then I have to create something....

 

The Admiral is waiting..... {chuckle}

I am still thinking if i really require the Larger build area, my goal is mostly to print Ship figures in 1:64 Scale and Lego-Compatible Parts for my Son.

As for Thingieverse, well, that's the Problem of it being "Community-Driven" and not moderated by any means...

Hull planking. 

I fitted All the lasered bulwark liners and the 2 precut strakes, then Went ahead with the 2 full length planks which will be below the Wales. 

I decided to use very Little raper on those 2 strakes, i like the Look. 

I use CA glue and i find the planks lie very good without any need for EDGE bending

Found out another Cheat i like:

CA Glue  (as long as it doesnt Stick to the Fingers) 

1 hour ago, myxyzptlyk2003 said:

Rudder construction is pretty straightforward.     I'm having a hard time deciding on if I want to put the nail heads in the pintle straps.   For one thing the holes on the straps are just a tiny bit smaller than the pins.  So that means enlarging them slightly which isn't all that much of a problem but those small nail heads are a nightmare for my old eyes and hands.    I tried one and after 5minutes of messing around I finally got it seated.

If you struggle with the nails, you could always try to make some dots of acrylic paint

1 hour ago, thibaultron said:

I'm looking at the mono also. Be careful if you have pets or children around, the resins are toxic.

 

If you watch the "What's Neat This Week" #158 podcast with Ken Patterson (on YouTube), one of the members, who made a 3D printed HO scale locomotive, talks about the resin he uses to make the print usable in an environment where toughness is involved. Most of the resins are too brittle for general handling. He 3D printed the drive gears too.

Thanks for the Warning, my Cat keeps eating leaves of flowers which are marked as "Toxic for Cats", also i caught her drinking water from the cup i use to clean my brushes after using them for PVA Glue/Paint so i dont think Resin would her 

I figured that at the cost of the Miniatures i would like to add to my Models i can actually get a printer and print them myself  

Was thinking Filament printer but the Resin ones beat them by far at 28mm Miniature scales

1 minute ago, Gregory said:

Will this char be visible on the completed model?

 

Otherwise, I have heard that brushing off the loose char is sufficient to get a good gluing surface.

This has been my experience with wood, but have haven't  worked with any lasered MDF at this point..

it wont be visible and i myself dint have any issues gluing to charred edges but in case of this model, removal off all char is an indication when the frames have been faired enough (at least on the bulwarks inner and outer)

Cant wait your impressions on thos, was considering a 3D Printer for some time and now the prices are in the Humane range i am specifically looking at AnyCubic (although i think i will start with the "Regular" Mono, the build area SHOULD be enough)

2 hours ago, myxyzptlyk2003 said:

On mine I did attach those pieces and then covered them with a heavy masking tape to protect when sanding.       It worked fine.

After careful deliberation i glued in the prow and keel lasered patterns. 

I'm not brave enough to do that on the Stern post tho, That area might require some Touch-ups still during second planking

Weather got us home eraly so, glue added.

Port side i had to file a bit of the planking to make the rabbet wider, but works now.

Both sides are at this stage now:

I use the HZ Slip to hold everything straight, becuase i havent glued the Prow/Keel/Stempost Lasered Patterns yet.

I was actually hoping to get as much of the 2nd Planking done without having to glue them, in case i need to sand and so i dont damage these

Soaked and clamped for drying. 

The prow and keel patterns are only dry fitted for now, need to Check the rabbet first (too tight on one side i noticed already) 

Off to roadtrip with Kid and Wife

So, i finished my 1st planking and did the sanding:

I added some filler before the first sanding round and after All sanding was done, sealed the hull with a thin layer of diluted varnish to trap all the filler and the sawdust in all Cracks. 

I hope that my rabbet wont turn out too small in the top part tho, will See tomorrow when i fit the prow and keel patterns 

51 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

It doesn’t take long using my travel iron, 10-15 seconds is all it takes me.

 

 

My point is, UK Glenn writes 30sec with the Bender Tool, BE claims 2-3 Minutes with Travel Iron, you write 10-15secs with Travel Iron, I am trying to decide how not to use 2 Tools, as taking out the Travel Iron is a complicated operation for me (have to lock myself in my Homeoffice/Workshop due to Kid + Cat ) 

The Electric Plank Bender seems a Tool easier to handle in such a situation, hence i ask

1 hour ago, glennard2523 said:

I've just finished my 1st planking. Time to go for my daily run so the glue can cure on the last three planks. I had exactly 23 plank widths on one side and 22.8 plank widths on the other side.

Nice, i was on planting Duty today, Admiral needed new flower on the Balcony...

1 hour ago, glennard2523 said:

You have done a great job so far, so there is no need to worry to much about how it looks as it gets sanded smooth, filled and then covered with the 2nd planking. I have altered my planking approach as I fit the few planks per side as helps me to speeds up the process and also helps me get a better shape requiring less filling and sanding. I hope to complete my 1st planking either later today or tomorrow morning.

ye, i dont really care as long as the planks are invisible.

I will try to do the last few today as well 

Ok, Port planking is finished, i have to say it turned out to be a massive Charlie-Foxtrot in the waist (mostly between bulkheads 2 and 4)

What did i do wrong this time ?

Well, i contrast to my LN build, i did the taper TOO CLOSE to the Bow, which resulted in not enough space along the Bulkheads 2 and 3.

Additionally, i measured the bulkheads with a short batten and i took the measurements totally wrong (i believe after i marked the ticks i measured them with my Caliper on the wrong markings)

I actually like adding stealers tho, so Stealers, Drop Planks, correction planks...

The shape is correct tho, it's very far below the waterline and no plank is tapered to less than 1/2 of it's width, so maybe it isnt a complete failure...

Moving on to the other side...

16 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

0299

This particularly applies to the tabs that separate the Main Hatch and Ladderway.

0286

2.7mm square section Boxwood was used for the purpose.

 

 

 

yup, i broke the part between hatch and ladderway, was thinking myself about some additional beams there.

It;s more rigid after the Laser-Deck has been added tho (but you are planking yourself)

9 hours ago, mtaylor said:

Thanks for the likes and comments.   

 

I'm working on it but not gong to rush it.  I can break parts with the best of them if I get in a hurry.  

 

Just a short one... Jigs have been assembled and put into place.   True, there should be 4 at the stern but "oops" happens".   I'm using "oops" to replace the colorful metaphors that turned the air blue. I still have the missing pieces, I'll see if I can glue them back into position before picking up and apply sand paper in quantity.

 

 

 

 

I glued the Q-Deck Jig Ears back while fitting the ply bulwark liner, broke all of them during sanding

1 minute ago, Blue Ensign said:

Wouldn’t like To start now would you Glenn so I can follow your planking example ? 😀

 

B.E.

Hes waiting for All of us to fail first

1 hour ago, myxyzptlyk2003 said:

 Bending that decorative work will be interesting.   Hope I can use the bending machine.

 

 

 

 

I hope you can't you cheater

(Joking but i checked the Price of that Bender - 150$ isnt worth it for me)

3 minutes ago, gjdale said:

Looking good Mark. As for the paint spill - what paint spill?

the manual asks for a cutoff of the red color in the cabin area, Mark painted it over completely so the spricketing pattern is red on the whole lenght - i should have done the same to be honest after i got the paint spill on the cutoff

On 8/26/2021 at 6:26 PM, James H said:

Watching along. Feel your pain with customs. Perhaps kit smugglers are the future...

No to Kit Piracy but yes to Kit smuggling ?

1 hour ago, Nirvana said:

Ben, I truly like the Sphinx.... but as it is in my workshop the "Time/Space" relation doesn't compute.

However, I am truly happy to see a new source of great rope. Thank you for supplying us with that. (Just checked the webpage of yours)

Now back to Jaceks build log. Sorry for the disturbance.....😄

No worries, i dont mind, just grumbling about how to proceed, i measured the bulheads now after adding the Garboard and came up with following:

Waist: 38mm

Bow: 29mm

Which means 7.6 Planks in the waist, but if i keep up with the 2.8mm taper i have used for the planks so far, i will fall short on the Bow by 7.3mm (which is 1.4 Planks)

So, i am wondering which option i should choose:

1. Add 2 Stealers on the Bow

2. Change the bow-taper to 3.8mm

3. Keep the 2.8mm Taper and try to fit 10 Planks at the Bow, which would mean cutting away the "Garboard" planks at the waist to create a curve (which would be actually NOT how a Garboard should look, but in my case it would result in a Garboard Plank which is 15mm wide on Bow and Stern and 2mm in the middle)

Nice of you to join us, now catch up

It's good that both of you keep adding UK or US, otherwise one could Spot some Kind of schizophrenia

Anyways self should er  pat and let's continue 

2 minutes ago, glennard2523 said:

I hope that works out for you. I did the same on my DOK build but I still had to sand the 2nd planking for a flush fit. This time I am following the method shown on the build manual, as shown in the following photo taken from James Hatch's build log

 

The thinning Was more of an accident, i started to do it without chekcing the manual for that step, i plan to thin the 1st layer as much down as possible to be flush with the keel and Sternpost