Ponto

I'm guessing plenty of projects will be sidelined once this magnificent kit is released. As long as the developers stay true to the prototype and the retail numbers meet with approval, I foresee a shortage of stock at the distributors level because of high demand . Not many builders will be able to resist jumping on this bandwagon..... me included!!!

Add:   Sumbitch...  the tool in your hand that gets tossed across the room in frustration.

The focal point of this model are the interior components. Not sure how much of it will be seen once the fuselage halves go together, but it does have an open bomb bay, and open hatch for the gunner's station in the ventral position. While even now the interior parts look complex, this is only about 50% of what will be the sum of it, while I still must add a lot of detail including the gun turret, the ventral gun station, and options for an extra fuel tank, or a torpedo, or four bombs in the bomb bay.
 

Seems like the ultimate turn key hobby in a box for some investor.

and with this, I think I have finished the decorations of this elegant corvette!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

@GrandpaPhil
@Gahm
@allanyed
Many thanks for the nice comments und all the others for the LIKES.
 
Fore topmast stay - Étai petit mât de hune 
According to my announcement in the last post, I am dealing with the topmast stays. So I prepared the assembly for the fore topmast stay. According to my original assumption that a left-hand rope was used here, this is obviously not the case according to my current research. The stay had a diameter of 41 mm in the original, which corresponds to 0.85 mm in model scale.
The fore topmast stay is attached in the same way as the main stay. This requires an open eye. The two legs are spliced into the stay. Finally, the ends receive spliced-in eyes, which then receive a lashing, as can be seen in the following picture. For comparison, I have laid a rope next to it that corresponds to the mainstay.

          
The fore topmast stay was routed on the starboard side of the bowsprit top via stay sheave to the bow for fastening by means of thimble and eyebolt. The area of the stay that was led around the sheave was served.  
     

Source: Atlas du Génie Maritime
 
 
Source: Original model in the Musée de la Marine Paris
 
The lashings for the fore topmast stay have to be applied directly to the model, as it is then no longer possible to pass the rope through the sheave cleat.


 

The next picture shows the eyebolt with thimble of the stay attachment on the forecastle.
 
Here you can see the guidance of the stage over the side sheaves with the served areas.

  
The last picture shows the fore topmast stay on the topmast crosstrees.

     
To be continued ... 

 
 

This is an excellent build log. Very much appreciated since I've been considering this very kit. The kit looks very well done and I'm sure it will turn out superbly in your hands.
 
JP

I have plenty of proper storage for tools but they all end up in a pile during a build session.  When I spend more time locating a certain tool as opposed to building I need to clear the pile and do a complete re set.

I have plenty of proper storage for tools but they all end up in a pile during a build session.  When I spend more time locating a certain tool as opposed to building I need to clear the pile and do a complete re set.

I have plenty of proper storage for tools but they all end up in a pile during a build session.  When I spend more time locating a certain tool as opposed to building I need to clear the pile and do a complete re set.

PM sent concerning The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships by Longridge.

Exceptional craftsmanship!

Exceptional craftsmanship!

I think Chuck has hit a homer with this project and can do nothing but good things for the hobby. Great to see the support and just never know if I will make the plunge.

ASK Razor Saw holders (straight and asymmetric)
Artscale
See article for codes, links and prices
 

 
I’m a sucker for nice tools, and one that is used most frequently in my arsenal is my trusty razor saw. I use this for all sorts of materials, including plastic, resin and now also wood. You sort of instinctively know when you need to get it from the tool rack, for those jobs where a knife would be too challenging, or cutters would be too destructive. They are great for making fine and precise cuts that remove an absolute bare minimum of material, unlike a regular saw. I also use mine to gently re-scribe any shallow and fine panel lines on plastic. Razor saws can be particularly good for that task and they don’t leave ridges of material behind like many regular scribers.
 
Artscale recently sent me their two new razor saw releases to see what I thought, and it provided a useful comparison to the brand I currently use. That latter brand is actually very good and has blades and mount which are made from photo-etch stainless steel. For a handle, the tool is mounted in a regular X-Acto style handle. 
 
Two slightly different razor saws have been sent for evaluation. These are:
Razor saw – Universal (200-T0020), €14,95
Razor saw – Asymmetric (200-T0021), €16.95
 


 
The ‘Universal’ style has a straight blade mounting system, whilst the ‘Asymmetric’ has an offset blade mount which is very useful for those awkward cuts, or for those where you want maximum visibility of the material being cut, without your own hand getting in the way.


 
The razor saws sent for evaluation are complete tools and need no third-party handle. Black ABS plastic is used for the handles on these, and the whole tool is nicely balanced in the hand as well as being comfortable when gripped. The blades are also more rigid than the brand I currently use whilst looking every bit as thin…exactly the remit of a razor saw. In fact, these blades are 0.12mm thick). Both of the supplied saws are fitted with the same blade (ultra-smooth and extra smooth asymmetric – two different tooth/pitch sizes). That single blade is also that is provided in each of the saw packs, with replacements and different types being available both individually or in multi-packs. 
 




 
Both saws have a beautifully designed system of blade change which also doubles up to provide reinforcement to the blade itself. It’s also a single-tool system for changing the blade too, with a hex-head key provided. There are two hex screws which drop through a reinforcement plate and the blade, before screwing into a threaded reinforcement plate on the rear. This is handy as my current brand requires a small wrench and a screwdriver to change the blade. The blade mounting holes are also central to the blade, meaning each cutting edge can be used without having to reposition the blade in the handle.




 
In use, the blade stays nicely straight without any awkward flexing, and it’s super sharp too. There is also a certain amount of freedom in positioning the blade in the tool, in case you want to set it to a certain depth of cut. 
 
Razor saw blades
Artscale also included packets of the blades they currently supply for use with their new razor saw. I have the individual packets, although you can buy these in multiples on their website.
Ultra-Smooth (symmetric) - €1,90
Ultra & Extra Smooth Radius (asymmetric) - €2,60
Extra Smooth (symmetric) - €1,90
Ultra & Extra Smooth - €1,90



 
Conclusion
I’ve been after something to replace my current razor saw as the blades in that are way too easy to bend and buckle without the utmost care. Artscale’s new tools seem to answer that need perfectly, and the blade options are very useful too, depending on application. These new razor saws and very nicely made and feel right in the hand. They are also super sharp too! If you are in the market for a new razor saw, whether a replacement or your first, these would be a very good option to consider. 
 
Here’s the tool data sheet with more technical information for you.
ASK-Handle-saw-pdf.pdf
 
Sincere thanks to Artscale for sending these tools out for evaluation on MSW. To buy directly, click the links in the article.
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

Thanks,  I do know about those but never thought about using them on wood.   I finished the third leaf design needed for the starboard side of the barge last night.  I applied some Wipe-On-Poly and I am happy with how they look, so rather than continue noodling with these I am just going to press on.  I have 5 more carving designs to get done for the model.
 
Next I will mount these three on a piece of scrap wood so I can make a mold.  I will pull a bunch of castings in resin for those who dont wish to carve them for their model.  I just hope these masters dont get ruined in the process because I plan on adding them to the model shortly after.
 

 
Chuck

I think Chuck has hit a homer with this project and can do nothing but good things for the hobby. Great to see the support and just never know if I will make the plunge.

My wood suppler sells ebony
 
https://shop.exotichardwoods.co.uk/african-black-ebony-sawn-board-no-5.html
 
£200 for one small plank of it.  The dust from ebony is also quite toxic too.  If I was in a club where 3 or 4 of us needed some it would be worth it but not for me at this price.  I'll leave it to the guitar builders as lovely as it is.  I too would either dye or paint the wood.

Every time I check-in with this build, I am amazed.  The skill in the build and the presentation of the build is awesome.  I'm also a fan of the subject and the scale.  Well done! 
 
I'm reminded of the years I spent learning to play an instrument.  I never had much ability.  But, it gave me a life long appreciation for those that do.  I've been modeling, off and on, for 40 years.  I will not reach the level of ability/skill/determination that is expressed in this build.  I'll keep plodding along and enjoy what I can do.  But, I appreciate those who share their gifts.

and last but not least is a little Panzer II, painted in Afrika Korp livery, the tank is complete but I'm still working on the commander figure, this too will receive a vignette base.  And that's it for now...how I spent my summer vacation 
 

2 photos later
544 notches on the deck beams of the second deck
depending of the attitude you choose to do it, it can be fun 

A small horizontal milling machine specially designed for working with model parts of sailboats.Completely meet the needs of processing copper and aluminum and wood. Using three-phase motor frequency conversion control； Speed 900-1850 adjustable; ER25  Chuck Spindle; accuracy 0.02; main table adopts screw feed, vice table for slide rail fast feed. The whole machine weighs 155KG. The production period is 17 days.
 

 

 

 

 
 

I've reviewed the published comparisons. Dewalt is the highest rated of the mid-price-range scroll saws. Hegner is at the top of any list, along with a couple of others, all highly-priced accordingly.

Fabrication of the capstan from the first and second deck + installation of all the deck beams.
The easiest way to fabricate the curved deck beams perfectly parallel is to roughly cut the beams, sand the upper part, turn them upside down, and pass them under the drum sander.