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Jim Lad

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Everything posted by Jim Lad

  1. Jim Lad
    Beautifully done, Augie - she's a credit to you! John
  2. Jim Lad
    Nicely done, Ollie - your square drill obviously worked a treat! John
  3. Jim Lad
    Ouch! Glad to see that you took it in your stride, Michael! John
  4. Jim Lad
    Just catching up, Toni! Thanks for your update of more delightful joinery work. John
  5. Jim Lad
    Clever idea, Danny! John
  6. Jim Lad
    Thanks for that, Andy! John
  7. Jim Lad
    Not what one would usually expect for gun ports, Popeye! Logically, with the ports open there must be a small coil of rope - as you say, on deck if it doesn't show in that photo. With the ports closed, there may well have been just enough rope to make to make fast on the cleat (no point in wasting expensive rope). John
  8. Jim Lad
    Good progress, Andy. Are stern anchors ever actually used in the lakes? I was on one ship that had a stern anchor, but it only left its hawse pipe to run the cable out for survey in dry dock. John
  9. Jim Lad
    A good idea with that little guide for very fine sanding, Michael. I would think the best source for very fine wire would be an electrical supplier - they use extremely fine wire for some windings. John
  10. Jim Lad
    That Blackbean looks a nice timber, Ollie. John
  11. Jim Lad
    Errr, gunport ropes on the railing? I thought your guns were on a lower deck, Popeye. Did I miss something? John
  12. Jim Lad
    Michael, Most miniaturists use fine copper wire or human hair for their rigging. The copper wire has the advantage of being able to be tied by simply twisting. John
  13. Jim Lad
    Just catching up with what you're doing, Grant - she's looking very nice indeed! John
  14. Jim Lad
    She's really looking classy, Tim! John
  15. Jim Lad
    Ollie, Go to the National Maritime Museum website (the Pommy NMM); go to 'collections' and search on 'windlass'. You'll find several photos of windlass models including a few early ones - all the ones you want are on the first couple of pages. As for the square holes, use a square drill, of course! I drill a small hole and then square the hole out with the tip of a very small square escapement file I have. In case of a lack of square files small enough, try filing down a small length of steel to a square point; drill the hole; then ease the hole out to square by pushing the squared steel spike into it. Try on a piece of scrap of the same type of wood first just to check that it works OK. John
  16. Jim Lad
    Ollie, I think your windlass would be more likely to look like this one from a contemporary model of the 'Harriet' in the National Maritime Museum at Greenwich, with the holes for handspikes to operate it, although from King's sketch of the 'Mermaid', it would appear that her windlass had the crossbar as well. Also note that in that photo you posted the port anchor cable is incorrect - the cable should lead over the windlass drum and not under it as shown so that heaving on the handspikes from behind the windlass will heave the cable in. John
  17. Jim Lad
    I use my proportional dividers all the time when planking. With the scale set to the correct proportion, it's a very quick way of transferring the correct plank width at each frame from model to plank. John
  18. Jim Lad
    Hmmm. I thought the Craig was more of a rust red when she was towed to Sydney, but mid green would look nice! That planking's coming on really well, mate! John
  19. Jim Lad
    That's great news, Michael.. It's always good to find access to the original! John
  20. Jim Lad
    That certainly looks the goods, Tom! John
  21. Jim Lad
    The keel and stem make a huge difference, Ollie! John
  22. Jim Lad
    Just gets better and better, Piet. I can't wait to see the conning tower taking shape! John
  23. Jim Lad
    Great perseverance to get a better result, Popeye! John
  24. Jim Lad
    Next thing we'll be seeing is a little conveyer belt to carry them along the production line! John
  25. Jim Lad
    Just send me the tickets and I'll be there, Andy! John

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