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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    Might I suggest checking out this series on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/c/MiniMachining/playlists. There are complete videos of setting up and using Sherline mills and lathes. In addition check out the videos by Blondi Hacks https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7Jf7t6BL4e74O53dL6arSw. She's a wonderful teacher and has comprehensive videos on using the mill and lathe. Between those two you should be able to become comfortable with both. Above all remember that these tools are designed to machine metal and are not toys. They do a great job on wood but be sure to observe all safety operations and use eye protection.
  2. dvm27
    Very nice job on that Constitution, Bill. I hope you encase it so your grandkids can continue to enjoy it. Agree with you regarding those clunky plastic sails. I like the idea of furled sails on your Cutty Sark model but they can be hard to do convincingly.
  3. dvm27
    What a beautiful model Chris! I'll bet it's going to be very popular. Just curious, do you do your on PE in house? It's very well done.
  4. dvm27
    Those look great. If you're wanting to go a step further you can use a felt or flannel polishing pad attached to your Dremel or regular drill at low speed. It gets into all the nooks and crannies and creates a perfect uniform polished finish. Depends on your preference.
  5. dvm27
    I'd be surprised if the full sized ships were this perfect. Your attention to detail is inspiring - as much woodworking as it is art.
  6. dvm27
    Really nice job Jamie! I think I tackled that model 50 years ago with very poor success. Those pine hulls needed a lot of work. Hope you're putting it in a case.
  7. dvm27
    Have you laid out the station lines on your building board? On the sheer plan each floor/lower futtock is inked in. Make sure all these lines are transferred to the building board. Only at each station line only will you be adding the fillers. They may vary in width as the sided dimension of the futtocks also varies. Sided means seen from the side (or lateral view in your medical parlance). The spacers are generally 3" sided at the keel and narrower higher up. There is one triple frame at the dead flat. So in the photo below all the spacers are at the station lines and are easily seen as they are holly (in contrast to the boxwood frames). In addition, there are fillers between the floors/first futtocks). It may be convenient to fit them before raising the frames. I did no do this but it would have been easier. Feel free to PM me if this is not clear.
  8. dvm27
    By all means Henry, post a build log. As well, study the build videos posted by Kevin. They are very detailed and he happily shows his mistakes and how to correct them. In addition check out the many Swan class logs. Amongst them are Dan, Toni, Remco and Ben. They may already be tagged. If not perhaps Chuck can show how it's done. Greg
  9. dvm27
    I agree with Alan. Second attempts have not turned out as well for me. Go back to bare metal using a wire wheel to get in all the nooks and crannies. Congrats on the good results for the other batch!
  10. dvm27
    Your beautiful run of planking and ports with nary a wave or undulation to be seen reminds me of...the Navy Board models I worshipped as a teenager at the Naval Academy. Although the original model shipwrights might harumph at the amount of time it's taken you to get this far I'm sure they would wholeheartedly approve of the result!
  11. dvm27
    The Shapeways part is a roller coaster. After painting I am placing it in an epoxy resin cube and making a lamp out of it for a grandson. Lots of cool epoxy resin videos on YouTube with 3D printed parts inside.
  12. dvm27
    My last Shapeways product was painted then immersed in epoxy resin. The paint leached into the resin, ruining the project. I just read where direct sunlight will cure the resin so I will leave the next one out over a sunny day, then paint it. Perhaps a varnish after to seal?
  13. dvm27
    Brilliant, Gary. That actually looks like it could be functional. Happy Birthday!
  14. dvm27
    Haven't seen your log for awhile Michael. She's looking beautiful. Will be quite a showpiece when you're done.
  15. dvm27
    Very nice to have new members building French models, especially of this quality. wonderful work!
  16. dvm27
    Lovely work. Is that the Dr. Mike method of hull construction? It certainly is very different than some plank on frame models done here but gives excellent results.
  17. dvm27
    Thank you for sharing your work with us, Dali. Your craftsmanship is wonderful!
  18. dvm27
    Unless you are building an Admiralty style model! But personally, I find that very few kit sails look realistic. They are usually over scale and don't hang realistically. I think properly furled sails can greatly enhance a model but these are also difficult to make in a realistic fashion. Obviously, Rob's example above is an excellent representation of what they should look like.
  19. dvm27
    French prisoner of war models are still on the market for the well healed amongst us. For example, recently sold for 48,000 pounds: https://www.charlesmillerltd.com/auction/lot/261-a-large-finely-carved-and-well-presented-early-19th-century-napoleonic-french-prisoner-of-war-bone-ship-model-for-a-first-rate-ship-of-the-line-traditionally-identified-as-hms-caledonia/?lot=12815&au=46&sd=1# A more modest 4000-6000 pound bid might get you this smaller model: https://www.charlesmillerltd.com/auction/lot/73-a-napoleonic-french-prisoner-of-war-bone-model-for-the-74-gun-frigate-illustrious-circa-1810/?lot=13707&so=0&st=&sto=0&au=51&ef=&et=&ic=False&sd=0&pp=48&pn=2&g=1#
  20. dvm27
    Sherline for sure. The quality is fantastic and their service department, should you ever need it, is first rate. I use the mill far more than the lathe but when you need a lathe...you need a lathe. I'm self taught but there are now excellent videos on just about every aspect of machining on the Sherline site and internet. One terrific series is by Blondihacks - https://www.youtube.com/blondihacks. She has numbered progressive series on the use of the lathe and mill for smaller machining.
  21. dvm27
    Lovely work, Olha. I think a clinker planked hull is much more interesting than a carvel planked one. The notched frames method would seem ideal for laser cutting but I also note that M. Frolich, when he built his Coureur, was able to cut these notches by hand (in case one doesn't have access to laser cutting). I just subscribed to your chanel and there is some great content there. It's also a pleasure to welcome a younger member here. Stick to your guns. Just because we old timers have done something one way for decades doesn't mean that's the only way. Technology and innovation in ship model making will hopefully recruit younger, tech savy people to this aging hobby.
  22. dvm27
    The last photos I have of Longridge's Victory in the Science Museum showed significant separation of the planks in several areas, Mark. Maybe your properly planked hull with with non-stressed planks will fare better in 80 years.
  23. dvm27
    The Proxxon planer is a superb tool. It uses blades for smooth cutting. But is can only plane to a thickness of @0.060" unless you use a sled underneath. I use my Proxxon planer to remove large amounts of wood quickly and the Byrnes thickness sander to dial in the final width.
  24. dvm27
    Really like those shaped barrel staves, Tom. Just like the real thing.
  25. dvm27
    It's like a chess game. You have two think five moves or, in this case, two decks, in advance. Beautiful work ben.

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