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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. Bob is not mailing these from his basement. Once he receives the order he contacts the distribution center and they in turn fill the order. I suspect distribution and the USPS may be part of the delay during Covid. Before Covid I always received my orders in 2-3 weeks. Order acknowledgements have never been done as far as I can remember.
  2. Here is a link to an article Roger wrote. There are hi-resolution photos and I'm betting you're not going to like what you see. But it's a beautiful model. https://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/BuildingAlert.pdf He also published articles in the NRJ regarding planking and coppering: “Clenched-lap Planking Over a Framed Hull,” Nautical Research Journal, Vol. 44, No. 4; and “Coppering a Clenched-lap Hull”, Nautical Research Journal, Vol. 45, No. 1.
  3. Very nice Toni! I admire your desire to make everything yourself. I might have purchased the copper rivets and roves from Scale Hardware https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/products/rivet-1-8-mm-head-diameter-copper-k109?_pos=4&_sid=f8b163f3f&_ss=r but perhaps they're not small enough.
  4. I've had a couple of slices from my miniature table saw, all the result of poor techniques and not paying close enough attention. Nothing that surgical cement couldn't handle. But I don't think I'll ever get a full sized table saw.
  5. Well done, Toni! That took a lot of guts to do at this point. I've been spending time looking at small contemporary models with square tucks and many of them have the fashion pieces. Something I never noticed until David Antscherl pointed it out.
  6. Yours's is a very labor intensive way of making gratings but the results, especially the round up, is excellent!
  7. Welcome to the "I have knocked off an aft cant with my elbow" club. Your are not the first member of this club! Follow Druxey's advice - a sharp chisel makes all the difference.
  8. Although I've no doubt that you will tweak the design 12.75 times before settling on a a final version I very much enjoy seeing how an architect's mind works. Most of us are happy to achieve something that looks right. You are only happy when the design is not only aesthetically pleasing but actually works from a human perspective.
  9. Much better Stuart! Agree with Druxey about those pesky hawse holes. And that Viagra tool organizer you have should keep them erect.
  10. Not quite sure why you didn't check out the Byrnes drawplate. It is superb and draws down to a #79 drill hole size. Plus it costs less than what you were looking at! https://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/drawplate5.html
  11. Welcome back, Kevin! You have made excellent use of your time away from Thorn and I look forward to further progress and more great videos.
  12. When in doubt it's best to follow the text. Paper can shrink or swell depending on the humidity and that can certainly cause an inch (scale) discrepancy.
  13. Me too, Michael. I was really looking forward to Rogers III. Bob busted his but to get that published but the author just had enough I suppose.
  14. Looking good Richard. However, please check the position of the outer hawse hole. It may just be the camera perspective but it looks a bit low to me. They should be near the center of the boxing.
  15. Lovely work, Ohla. You can also use that beautiful new Byrnes saw to cut brass using a slitting saw. Its very easy, just place a thin sheet under the brass while cutting. I use a slitting blade, 0.020" or less.
  16. Ship Ahoy makes a beautiful motor upgrade for the Preac saw which greatly increases its cutting ability. Unfortunately, the link used to work brings up an entirely different type of model and I suspect they are out of business.
  17. Three years down the road when those delicate knighthead corners are chipped and dinged you'll realize it's quite easy to replace them by amputating from the forecastle planksheer up, creating new ones and grafting them back on. The small ones are easily created by forming a short parallelogram of stock then slotting the recesses on a table saw (or mill).
  18. Enjoying you build log Stuglo. I spent almost a decade on this fully framed model. Early mistakes are inevitable. The key is to recognize and correct them. Everything you do next year depends on the accuracy of what you do now. I can't tell you how many times I whipped out the isopropyl alcohol my first year and replaced a bad part. Ungluing is incredibly easy with PVS glue (sometimes scarily so)! Looks like you've done a very nice job so far on the stern transoms. Don't forget to view the excellent logs of Tony Levine and Remcoe.
  19. Matt - I sent you a PM. Dave - the Echo class plans are available as well for the same price. Includes the Swan class masting and sparring plan as they would be the same for a six rate.
  20. Thanks for those of you choosing to purchase our plans. When paying through PayPal please also send me a brief message so I can confirm your e-mail address. This is not always evident when I receive the PayPal notice of payment.
  21. Swan class plans now available in digital format!!! Good news for those building a Swan class model or contemplating building one in the future. Admiralty Models is now providing the plans in digital format. With Sea Watch books no longer providing paper copies of our plans we have decided to make them available for download. These include the large sheet with the sheer, half breath and body plan, the masting and sparring plan sheet and the fully lofted set of frames, transoms, hawse timbers, etc. We have never done this before but there are many copies of The Fully Framed Model which have been sold and we want future modelers to have access to our plans. As well, current modelers of a Swan class model will find it very convenient to have these plans in digital format. All plans are provided with scales to insure they are printed accurately (results vary with different commercial services in my experience - the scale will insure they are correct). Price for the full set of plans is $50 USD. They are provided in PDF format. Payment made via PayPal to dvm27@comcast.net. Upon receipt of payment a link will be provided to download the plans. Greg Herbert & David Antscherl www.admiraltymodels.com
  22. Actually I use holly with the Fiebings leather dye. Holly bends much easier (especially useful in the wales). But be sure to stain the wood off the model. You can carefully touch it up after installed.
  23. You have certainly mastered the laser Chuck! The hair bracket and scroll work looks just like the Navy Board versions.
  24. Terrific review, James. This is a very ambitious project. To me the greatest difficulty will be getting the external planking runs perfectly aligned and pre-beveled to exact specs. Notching the frames for the planking in a clinker style hull seems like a great solution to clinker planking providing that every notch is perfectly aligned. I’m curious to know if the planking at the bow and the stern has gains (tapers) to make them flush at the transom and stem rabbet.
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