dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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This looks to be the method Dr. Mike uses for his models. I am happy to see a build log starting at the beginning for this technique. -
As Druxey said buy an architects scale on eBay. Using full sized measurements, even if not ones you are familiar with, will eliminate a layer of potential error. After awhile you'll pick up this arcane system of measurement pretty quickly. Plus, when working with full sized numbers an alarm bell will go off in your head when your piece is way too small or large based on an errant calculation you made.
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Non-pet owners sometimes have a hard time understanding how deeply we mourn when we lose a pet. Twenty years is a long life for a cat but that does not diminish the loss. Tyra was lucky to have such caring and compassionate owners and I know she lived a wonderful life.
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Those head rails and scrollwork look terrific, Chuck. Can't wait to see them on your model
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I have the pleasure of owning a copy of Prisoner of War Ship Models by Manfred Stein, While some of them are a bit crude in their appearance others are exquisite works of art. Like Navy Dockyard models many of them were built by committee and by some of the finest craftsmen of their day.
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Add me to the group Chuck. Greg
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Your setup in the second photo was very informative. Your use of a plywood scrap with a hole drilled acts as a steady rest for the mill and I shall use that in the future for sure!
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Cap Rails
dvm27 replied to SeaDoc's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
You can turn your hull upside down and place it over a sheet of cardstock or thick paper. Trace the outside profile of the hull onto the paper with a pencil. Cut out the profile, place on the model to insure it matches then draw an offset line to the inside of the cap rail to the required thickness. Works well for me. -
Making and using a draw plate
dvm27 replied to Don Case's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Just curious, Don, what scale model are you making? With the Byrnes drawplate I can draw bamboo down to a no. 79 drill bit hole but there is a lot of wastage and a lot depends on the quality of the bamboo. If you're working in 1/4"-1ft scale I should think nos. 70-76 should cover most of your trunnel needs. -
Giampieroricci - I am sending you a PM.
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Apron frame rebates
dvm27 replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The Fully Framed Model by David Antscherl (SeaWatch Books). I can't imagine building a Swan class without having the book as a reference or the Swan 3D virtual build (www.admiraltymodels.com). -
Apron frame rebates
dvm27 replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
You are indeed correct that the apron is extremely difficult to make, Don! Took me several tries to get it right. As the width of the lower apron tapers from 18" to 10" over it's length your strategy might be difficult to employ but perhaps is doable. You would first need to make the lower apron to the correct dimension (12" tapering to 10" aft - chapter 1.19 in TFFM). Then you would need to add the 3" stepped line to either side and taper it to fay into the apron at the bottom. No matter how you do it check and double check that the steps line up on either side of the lower apron both horizontally and vertically. I found it much easier to do this with my Sherline mill but others have successfully done this with just a sharp chisel. Care, deliberation and patience is required here! Oh, and the stern deadwood stepping lines is no cakewalk either but should be easier after after completing the apron. Have you started a build log? -
Great video, Kevin. Wish I could attribute my building issues to termites but there's snow outside! Couple of comments: 1. Using those pencil marks to fair the inside of the frames works as well as on the outside. Those concave surfaces are hard to fair, especially in the bow and stern. 2. Great fix on the transom knee error. Is the wing transom upper edge at the right height at the outer counter timber or did you need to raise that as well? It seemed to be flush with the lower transom knee in the video before repair. 3. The deck beams can be recessed in two ways. You could cut 1" mortises into the deck clamp to receive the beams or notch the ends of the beams 1" to fit over the clamps. I found the latter infinitely easier to do although you need to be carful that they are installed in the proper location after cutting the recess.
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We've missed your updates, Michael. I'd almost forgotten how beautiful this model is. That wood grain would look gorgeous in a full sized yacht!
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Another Brick in the Wall, Piotrik, Beautifully done! That's a rotary vice in your mill, correct?
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Marvelous work Alex. I assume you are painting all those plankshear pieces off the model before installing. The black finish is nice. What are you using to achieve it?
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The scuppers are also omitted on those lovely 18th perspective paintings of ship models (at least in the ones I've seen). As are the masts and rigging. There's no right or wrong here, just individual preference. Those Navy Board models you've included are elegant in their simplicity.
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I think that once commercial kit makers become as skilled as Masalv and Chuck are at CNC carvings the hobby will be changed forever...in a good way.
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Interesting. they already published a revised edition of the first printing. Wonder how different this one will be?
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Regrettably, there will be no Vol. 3 (or 4). I believe Vol. 3 was almost ready for press but it just didn't happen.
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Photoetch brass black problems
dvm27 replied to Seems ok to me's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Perhaps check out this tutorial which seems to work for me and some others: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/21710-blackening-revisited/?tab=comments#comment-651453- 15 replies
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I've had the same issues with bamboo treenails, Mike. I try to keep the same stock together when making and installing them because you can have wide variations on the cut end grain with regards to color. With regards to using a finish there have been many discussions over the years regarding whether some sort of sealer (e.g. a stain or sanding sealer) is necessary to preserve the model. If the model is encased and not in direct sunlight what are we protecting it from? Perhaps that is a different discussion topic.
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
dvm27 replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Its not unusual for the spacers to come apart while fairing, especially with 80 grit paper. Just keep regluing them. I use a softer wood for the spacers (like holly). It's best to use flexible sanding boards while fairing to cover a larger area. Use a light touch at first and constantly reapply pencil lines until all disappear. -
You might find it of interest that one of America's best ship model makers, August Crabtree, who perfected his craft a century ago, used only local sourced woods for his models. He lived in Portland, Oregon and could not afford wood from East Coast suppliers (there was no Chuck in those days) so he experimented and found the following woods most useful in his work: Apple wood for planking because it was hard, pliable and took a nice finish. Laurel wood for contrast Elm for curved areas because it was easy to bend Cascara wood or "buckthorn" for deck beams Tropical limewood for small fittings like deadeyes English and French walnut for some fittings as well as cedar on some inside frames to discourage insects Dense whitethorn hardwood (firethorn) for carving He seasoned all his wood over a 2-3 year period before use. Anyone who is running out of interesting reading material during Covid will thoroughly enjoy The Miniature Ships of August & Winnifred Crabtree, by Vincent P. Scott (Mariners Museum, 2011). It's a delightful read!
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You can also find copies on the Advanced Book Exchange http://www.abe.com but they tend to be more expensive. however there may be copy in your neck of the woods so postage may be less.
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