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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    Another Brick in the Wall, Piotrik, Beautifully done! That's a rotary vice in your mill, correct?
  2. dvm27
    Marvelous work Alex. I assume you are painting all those plankshear pieces off the model before installing. The black finish is nice. What are you using to achieve it?
  3. dvm27
    The scuppers are also omitted on those lovely 18th perspective paintings of ship models (at least in the ones I've seen). As are the masts and rigging. There's no right or wrong here, just individual preference. Those Navy Board models you've included are elegant in their simplicity.
  4. dvm27
    I think that once commercial kit makers become as skilled as Masalv and Chuck are at CNC carvings the hobby will be changed forever...in a good way.
  5. dvm27
    Interesting. they already published a revised edition of the first printing. Wonder how different this one will be?
  6. dvm27
    Regrettably, there will be no Vol. 3 (or 4). I believe Vol. 3 was almost ready for press but it just didn't happen.
  7. dvm27
    Perhaps check out this tutorial which seems to work for me and some others: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/21710-blackening-revisited/?tab=comments#comment-651453
  8. dvm27
    I've had the same issues with bamboo treenails, Mike. I try to keep the same stock together when making and installing them because you can have wide variations on the cut end grain with regards to color. With regards to using a finish there have been many discussions over the years regarding whether some sort of sealer (e.g. a stain or sanding sealer) is necessary to preserve the model. If the model is encased and not in direct sunlight what are we protecting it from? Perhaps that is a different discussion topic.
  9. dvm27
    Its not unusual for the spacers to come apart while fairing, especially with 80 grit paper. Just keep regluing them. I use a softer wood for the spacers (like holly). It's best to use flexible sanding boards while fairing to cover a larger area. Use a light touch at first and constantly reapply pencil lines until all disappear.
  10. dvm27
    You might find it of interest that one of America's best ship model makers, August Crabtree, who perfected his craft a century ago, used only local sourced woods for his models. He lived in Portland, Oregon and could not afford wood from East Coast suppliers (there was no Chuck in those days) so he experimented and found the following woods most useful in his work: Apple wood for planking because it was hard, pliable and took a nice finish. Laurel wood for contrast Elm for curved areas because it was easy to bend Cascara wood or "buckthorn" for deck beams Tropical limewood for small fittings like deadeyes English and French walnut for some fittings as well as cedar on some inside frames to discourage insects Dense whitethorn hardwood (firethorn) for carving He seasoned all his wood over a 2-3 year period before use. Anyone who is running out of interesting reading material during Covid will thoroughly enjoy The Miniature Ships of August & Winnifred Crabtree, by Vincent P. Scott (Mariners Museum, 2011). It's a delightful read!
  11. dvm27
    You can also find copies on the Advanced Book Exchange http://www.abe.com but they tend to be more expensive. however there may be copy in your neck of the woods so postage may be less.
  12. dvm27
    Home schooling, Ed? for some reason I thought you were Grandpa age. Loss of Crown and Hobby Mill vendors were indeed a great loss for our hobby. With regards to the hull strapping I'm just curious how they would have been secured? Would there be copper rivets with peened ends? The outer ends would have to be counter sunk into the frames for the external planking.
  13. dvm27
    It must give Ed much pleasure to see his work executed at such a level of excellence! Those tanks are spectacular, though ironically they would leak like a sieve at this point. I love the copper finished look. If you blacken them I suspect the rivet holes would vanish.
  14. dvm27
    If you find the gap offensive you could also glue in a tapered spline of the same wood to fill the gap after the glued keel has dried. Leave it slightly proud of the surface and sand flush with yellow glue to blend. Make sure it's an easy slip fit so as not to exert pressure on the other side of the joint.
  15. dvm27
    Actually, Mike, now that I recall I stopped using sanding sealer midway through my Speedwell build based on David's experiences. The 240 finish was enough to give the desired look. All of the plank on frame models in my study have toned down to the same extent whether I used Danish oil, sanding sealer or nothing.
  16. dvm27
    I had the same issues you did but did some experimentation and came up with this (thread): https://modelshipworld.com/topic/21710-blackening-revisited/?tab=comments#comment-651453 My blackening has improved 100% since then.
  17. dvm27
    Think of each futtock (member of a frame) as individual timbers which are connected to the next one by a joint. Each end of the joint (except the toptimber) has a scarph joint. When the ends are joined these two adjacent scarph joints are glued together creating a step in the middle (1/2" or 1"- refer to the framing plan). The void created is filled by a chock. The chock is always the same thickness as the thicker of the two futtock pieces. The process I use is to glue both futtocks and the chock together over a copy of the frame. After it is dry use a chisel to pare the upper part of the chock down to the thinner width of the adjacent futtock. If you have The Fully Framed Model, Volume III the process is clearly depicted on pages 64-65.
  18. dvm27
    Not sure I fully understand your question (photo would help) but the center of each chock, as viewed from the outside, should be a step where the transition occurs.
  19. dvm27
    Nicely done, Ron! Listen to Chuck - he knows his shi...I mean stuff.
  20. dvm27
    Great planking job, Mike. Dilute sanding sealer works great for me with no change in the color. I use the SIG version.
  21. dvm27
    You've managed to incorporate every detail except the branded imprinted lettering on the carriages. A Euro cent must be a lot bigger than our US penny!
  22. dvm27
    Very few people do the prep you do. Mike. That's why your work is so superlative!
  23. dvm27
    Very sorry for your loss, Doris. Your work inspires me and others to do better and I'm sure your husband was very proud of you.
  24. dvm27
    I agree Jaeger. I have every issue of Model Shipwright and feel these were some of the best ship model publications ever. John is sorely missed.
  25. dvm27
    Missed your work, Christian! Look forward to your next project.

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