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Everything posted by dvm27
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Apron frame rebates
dvm27 replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The Fully Framed Model by David Antscherl (SeaWatch Books). I can't imagine building a Swan class without having the book as a reference or the Swan 3D virtual build (www.admiraltymodels.com). -
Apron frame rebates
dvm27 replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
You are indeed correct that the apron is extremely difficult to make, Don! Took me several tries to get it right. As the width of the lower apron tapers from 18" to 10" over it's length your strategy might be difficult to employ but perhaps is doable. You would first need to make the lower apron to the correct dimension (12" tapering to 10" aft - chapter 1.19 in TFFM). Then you would need to add the 3" stepped line to either side and taper it to fay into the apron at the bottom. No matter how you do it check and double check that the steps line up on either side of the lower apron both horizontally and vertically. I found it much easier to do this with my Sherline mill but others have successfully done this with just a sharp chisel. Care, deliberation and patience is required here! Oh, and the stern deadwood stepping lines is no cakewalk either but should be easier after after completing the apron. Have you started a build log? -
Great video, Kevin. Wish I could attribute my building issues to termites but there's snow outside! Couple of comments: 1. Using those pencil marks to fair the inside of the frames works as well as on the outside. Those concave surfaces are hard to fair, especially in the bow and stern. 2. Great fix on the transom knee error. Is the wing transom upper edge at the right height at the outer counter timber or did you need to raise that as well? It seemed to be flush with the lower transom knee in the video before repair. 3. The deck beams can be recessed in two ways. You could cut 1" mortises into the deck clamp to receive the beams or notch the ends of the beams 1" to fit over the clamps. I found the latter infinitely easier to do although you need to be carful that they are installed in the proper location after cutting the recess.
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We've missed your updates, Michael. I'd almost forgotten how beautiful this model is. That wood grain would look gorgeous in a full sized yacht!
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Another Brick in the Wall, Piotrik, Beautifully done! That's a rotary vice in your mill, correct?
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The scuppers are also omitted on those lovely 18th perspective paintings of ship models (at least in the ones I've seen). As are the masts and rigging. There's no right or wrong here, just individual preference. Those Navy Board models you've included are elegant in their simplicity.
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- winchelsea
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I think that once commercial kit makers become as skilled as Masalv and Chuck are at CNC carvings the hobby will be changed forever...in a good way.
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Photoetch brass black problems
dvm27 replied to Seems ok to me's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Perhaps check out this tutorial which seems to work for me and some others: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/21710-blackening-revisited/?tab=comments#comment-651453 -
I've had the same issues with bamboo treenails, Mike. I try to keep the same stock together when making and installing them because you can have wide variations on the cut end grain with regards to color. With regards to using a finish there have been many discussions over the years regarding whether some sort of sealer (e.g. a stain or sanding sealer) is necessary to preserve the model. If the model is encased and not in direct sunlight what are we protecting it from? Perhaps that is a different discussion topic.
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
dvm27 replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Its not unusual for the spacers to come apart while fairing, especially with 80 grit paper. Just keep regluing them. I use a softer wood for the spacers (like holly). It's best to use flexible sanding boards while fairing to cover a larger area. Use a light touch at first and constantly reapply pencil lines until all disappear.- 475 replies
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You might find it of interest that one of America's best ship model makers, August Crabtree, who perfected his craft a century ago, used only local sourced woods for his models. He lived in Portland, Oregon and could not afford wood from East Coast suppliers (there was no Chuck in those days) so he experimented and found the following woods most useful in his work: Apple wood for planking because it was hard, pliable and took a nice finish. Laurel wood for contrast Elm for curved areas because it was easy to bend Cascara wood or "buckthorn" for deck beams Tropical limewood for small fittings like deadeyes English and French walnut for some fittings as well as cedar on some inside frames to discourage insects Dense whitethorn hardwood (firethorn) for carving He seasoned all his wood over a 2-3 year period before use. Anyone who is running out of interesting reading material during Covid will thoroughly enjoy The Miniature Ships of August & Winnifred Crabtree, by Vincent P. Scott (Mariners Museum, 2011). It's a delightful read!
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Home schooling, Ed? for some reason I thought you were Grandpa age. Loss of Crown and Hobby Mill vendors were indeed a great loss for our hobby. With regards to the hull strapping I'm just curious how they would have been secured? Would there be copper rivets with peened ends? The outer ends would have to be counter sunk into the frames for the external planking.
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YOUNG AMERICA 1853 by Bitao - FINISHED - 1:72
dvm27 replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
It must give Ed much pleasure to see his work executed at such a level of excellence! Those tanks are spectacular, though ironically they would leak like a sieve at this point. I love the copper finished look. If you blacken them I suspect the rivet holes would vanish.- 257 replies
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If you find the gap offensive you could also glue in a tapered spline of the same wood to fill the gap after the glued keel has dried. Leave it slightly proud of the surface and sand flush with yellow glue to blend. Make sure it's an easy slip fit so as not to exert pressure on the other side of the joint.
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Actually, Mike, now that I recall I stopped using sanding sealer midway through my Speedwell build based on David's experiences. The 240 finish was enough to give the desired look. All of the plank on frame models in my study have toned down to the same extent whether I used Danish oil, sanding sealer or nothing.
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
dvm27 replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Think of each futtock (member of a frame) as individual timbers which are connected to the next one by a joint. Each end of the joint (except the toptimber) has a scarph joint. When the ends are joined these two adjacent scarph joints are glued together creating a step in the middle (1/2" or 1"- refer to the framing plan). The void created is filled by a chock. The chock is always the same thickness as the thicker of the two futtock pieces. The process I use is to glue both futtocks and the chock together over a copy of the frame. After it is dry use a chisel to pare the upper part of the chock down to the thinner width of the adjacent futtock. If you have The Fully Framed Model, Volume III the process is clearly depicted on pages 64-65.- 475 replies
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
dvm27 replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Not sure I fully understand your question (photo would help) but the center of each chock, as viewed from the outside, should be a step where the transition occurs.- 475 replies
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Great planking job, Mike. Dilute sanding sealer works great for me with no change in the color. I use the SIG version.
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You've managed to incorporate every detail except the branded imprinted lettering on the carriages. A Euro cent must be a lot bigger than our US penny!
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