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dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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ancre Le Fleuron 1729 by rekon54 - 1:24
dvm27 replied to rekon54's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
I agree with Michiel - one can but wonder at your work. For me, your metal work and mortises are among my favorites. -
Terrific detail, Egen. Like Allan I have not built any large sections off the model but they sure would be easier to do that way.
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Echo by oneslim - cross-section
dvm27 replied to oneslim's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Thanks for the photos Bob. I knew your Nikon digital SLR would take better photos than my mini Nikon. Your first frame came out terrific and your lucite jig far outdid mine. Hope to catch you at our next workshop in the fall! -
That's a real cat-astrophy! I'm not sure trying to increase your bowling average will be any less stressful. We do hope you will regroup and rebuild. The good thing about the cross-section is that it's only a few frames.
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ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
dvm27 replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
You're a gifted model maker Doris. I wonder if you also made doll houses, as your cabin rooms have that feel.- 883 replies
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- royal caroline
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Echo by jml1083 - cross-section
dvm27 replied to jml1083's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Terrific first frame, Jim. Others might wonder about spending a whole weekend to make one frame. But the techniques you learned will translate to all your scratch building work. If you're worried about that blemish just reverse the frame as the blemish won't be visible on the aft side. Just make sure to reverse the treenail pattern to match. -
Here's photo of her prior to fairing the outside Maury. Lots of cast and shifted toptimbers!
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Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
dvm27 replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Maury, Correct. The small lines between the frames delineates the top of the inboard scupper box (fore) and the pump discharge (aft). I would hold off on these until David covers these in his cross-section updates. You'll want to make sure you deck and waterways are correctly installed first I should think. -
ancre Le Fleuron 1729 by rekon54 - 1:24
dvm27 replied to rekon54's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Thank you for this Master Class in ship building. Keep those photos coming. -
I really love your wood color palate, Gary. Is that Swiss pear for the beams, riders etc?
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I found that moving the blade towards the disk mounted in the lathe gave me better control of the cuts
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If you could power that up it looks like it would work, Paul. Terrific stuff. All of your seemingly different materials look perfect after painting. Have you described the painting process in any of your photos? What do you fill in the seems with (at cardboard joints)?
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Echo by oneslim - cross-section
dvm27 replied to oneslim's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
For those attending the workshop I will have a table saw if you want to redo your scored rising wood the way bob did. -
Echo by oneslim - cross-section
dvm27 replied to oneslim's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Sorry I missed your posting before, Bob. You get an A+ for the homework and extra credit for the fancy-pants acrylic squaring jig! Greg -
No need for me to re-post my log, Mario. I'll just let your log set the standard. Very well done! Greg
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Terrific technique for getting all those mortises lined up, Mark. I like that scoring tool also!
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Check out Jerzy's site http://www.jbmodel.eu/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=47_52&products_id=629http://www.jbmodel.eu/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=47_52&products_id=629. His blocks are quite good
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Ed, are those spring loaded clamps in the last photo home made or purchased?
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Terrific fix and beautiful model, Ron!
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Furled , unfurled or no sails -Preference
dvm27 replied to Canada Steve's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I'm not a huge fan of furled sails in static models but only because they usually appear over-scale and bulky. However, it can be done, and to good effect. For example see http://www.shipmodels.com.ua/eng/models/elite/le_rivoli/index.htm and the beautiful work of Dr. Mike. I've read somewhere that decreasing the canvas (model sail) size by 25% helps keep proportions correct. -
I also use carpenters glue exclusively for the simple reason that I can debond it when I screw up. Something we Swan class builders get very good at!
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Then you, Sir, would have made a fine surgeon! The symmetry of your cuts, especially the port holes is amazing. I love models of this period but wonder where one displays them, due to their size.
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Probably just a temporary brain freeze Toni but you wouldn't see a chock from the outside, only the joint between the frames. The outside looks the same regardless of whether the joint is chocked or scarphed. To be honest, I am using chocked joints on Speedwell simply because I find them easier to do.
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Dave, Your list is a bit generic so far. If you are building from kits The Period Ship Handbook series by Keith Julier is excellent. If you're scratch building The Fully Framed Model series by David Antscherl and Greg Herbert or Ships of the American revolution and Their Models by Harold Hahn are essential. For general reference of that period Arming and Fitting by Brian Lavery and Englishman of War by Peter Goodwin are essential. Chuck Passaro's practicums and building manuals are terrific for the middle.
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I'm thoroughly enjoying the reposting of these excellent logs. Those ribbands on your fully framed hull demonstrate how truly fair you've made her. Quite an elegant hull.
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