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dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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Excellent, Ben. You'll find the fairing quite rewarding. In just a couple of hours her final shape will emerge. Greg -
I was also a bit disappointed when I finished my Druid decking and it yellowed a bit. I've found that dilute sanding sealer is the only way to keep holly white. The model looks terrific.
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That's a lovely case, Ed. Perhaps I've missed it but have you decided on your next projec
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Congratulations on a beautiful model Chris. While there are many lovely features, I don't believe I've seen a better job coppering the hull. The copper belts, finish and scale look just right.
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You're the Henry Ford of ship modelers, Danny. Now I'm wondering why I didn't extend my jig to mass produce the carriages instead of assembling one at a time. Next time!
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Your mast step, like everything else on your model, is a prefect little mini-model within itself. I very much enjoy your wood palette.
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Mike, She's looking terrific. You must be counting the days until you can free her from her jig. A very Happy 65th birthday to you!
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Lovely cannons, Dan. I notice he leaves on the casting vents. How difficult were they to grind and blacken?
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The treenails look very good, Toni. Great job on those nibbed margin strakes also!
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Echo by oneslim - cross-section
dvm27 replied to oneslim's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
For some reason I missed your post, Bob. Best wishes for a speedy recovery! -
Well done, Ben! And don't feel bad - properly done treenails should be almost invisible.
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ancre Le Fleuron 1729 by rekon54 - 1:24
dvm27 replied to rekon54's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
It doesn't get any better than this! Are the scuppers one continuous tube or did you insert shorter tubes from each end? -
Really extraordinary work, Michael!
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Treenails on a ship this size were between 3/4" and 1 1/4" in diameter so something around .020" would be fine. That would be roughly a no.76 drill bit or the third smallest hole on the Byrnes draw plate. You can dip the treenail in dilute white glue and insert it immediately as it tends to swells up or insert, cut then paint over the treenails with dilute white glue (my preference) Treenails should be barely visible. I'd also advise testing on a scrap piece with the finish you'll be using to see the effect of the finish on the treenail grain. Greg
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Excellent job planking! Very authentic.
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Echo by jml1083 - cross-section
dvm27 replied to jml1083's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Don't be afraid to start with 80 grit sandpaper and make flexible sanding strips as Druxey has recommended. You'll actually feel as well as hear when you have completed fairing a section. -
Echo by jml1083 - cross-section
dvm27 replied to jml1083's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Well done, Jim. Keep that center line straight and all will fair up easily later on. -
Ben, sorry about the delay in answering. I just returned from a cruise on the largest cruise ship in the world, Oasis of the Seas. If you have the Byrnes disc sander, doing the chocks is easy. First, I trace place the glued up futtocks carefully over the blank and trace the shape. Next I cut very closely to the outside lines with my scroll saw. Finally, the edges are dressed to final shape by lightly feeding them against the Byrnes disk sander. I use a small sacrificial ply scrap underneath the chock and push it against the sanding disk with my finger. Keep offering it up to the frames and refine until it's a press fit. Make sure the chock is as thick as the lower futtock, as they are stepped!
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This is an admirable attempt to create the waterline with planks of differing wood species. I've only seen it done by very experienced modelers before (Hahn, Frolich for ex.).
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You can also put it on the watch list on Amazon.com. They will be selling it.
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I also create those sheave slots by laminating. I find that cutting the slot fillers from the same piece of stock and orientating the grain to match, hides the seams nicely.
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ancre LE BONHOMME RICHARD by Jeronimo - FINISHED
dvm27 replied to Jeronimo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Outstanding!- 662 replies
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Contemporary photos of a NMM model I'm currently working on, HMS Speedwell, clearly show the fashion piece as Druxey has modelled it. I am currently working on this area and am constructing the fashion piece in two different sections, in effect building out the rebate . The end result will resemble Druxey's model but without the difficult task of creating the double rebates fore and aft. Very few navy board models were accurately framed and I suspect the square tuck work around was yet another convention to make the model builder's life easier. I certainly agree overlapping the transom planks with the side planking would be a heck of a lot easier! Just to reference a point Chuck brought up regarding Harold Hahn. Harold was an amazing ship modeler, a pioneer who influenced modern scratch building probably more than anyone else of his generation. But he freely stated that many of the choices he made with regards to construction were conventions to suite his own taste and did not always represent full size building practice. Some have criticized him for this but he never tried to pass off his work as 100% authentic. When I built my first Hahn-style model I thought I was building a replica of the original. I was, in fact, building a replica of a Harold Hahn model. There's no way I was ready to build a fully framed model at that time and I'll forever be greatful to Harold for introducing me to scratch building.
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Microscope slides can be a bit thick. Microscope cover slips are more to scale but they are the devil to dimension. Some people grind them to their final size. Conventional glass cutters are not successful in my hands for these.
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Gripos-kaiki by Giorgos - FINISHED
dvm27 replied to Giorgos's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
I'm very much enjoying your build Giorgos!
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