dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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Excellent, Remco! My Swan was O.K. but I believe yours may be the definitive version of the class. -
Looks very good, Ben, but a bit hard to tell from the photo. And end on view might show it better. Here's how the garboard fits into the rabbet.
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Perfect work, as always, Remco. Are you going to go a step than I did and add the recessed faces to the angled tops of the bitts?
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Lovely carvings, Bill, as always. It looks like some of the details are very small and thin in the final versions. Do you repair breakthroughs or is your scrap box rather hefty?
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Spectacular work, Ed. Two questions. Did you show construction of those long clamps which you used to secure the bottoms of the riders while gluing? And who makes the paint Euro Boxwood?
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Great job on those pump chains, Dan. They were indeed very labor intensive.
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Making gratings
dvm27 replied to marius's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Mark mentioned in his Bellona post that he had had some difficulties aligning the strips of gratings during assembly using the traditional technique. I've attached a few photos of a simple jig I made to keep the grating ledges in alignment while gluing up the gratings. The jig consists of a square of wood with slotted recesses for the ledges. On two sides stops were added. The gratings ledges are placed in the slots. The battens are now glued in place. I use dilute white glue as they are a press fit. The assembled gratings are removed. The round up has yet to be added.
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Let me know how they turn out, Mark. I've done it that way also (Clay Feldman published the technique many moons ago). It worked fine but I realized I didn't make the scores deep enough to accommodate the round up the first time.
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Not sure how you found this list Archjofo but I'm very happy you did. Your work is beautiful, both wooden and metal.
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That's a great start, Ben. make sure that when drilling and inserting the treenails you position them below the rabbet as per the illustration.
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Echo by Rustyj - 1:48 - cross-section
dvm27 replied to Rustyj's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Great job Rusty. if I may make a suggestion - make a port template out of scrap wood. Use that blank of wood as a guide when raising the cast frame 3 aft. It is very important to get the spacing between the toptimbers 2 fore and 3 aft exactly correct and this spacer really helps. -
The paper I use is thin, acid free paper. I'll see if I can thickness it later.
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Damn but your work brings a smile to my face Remco!
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Papegojan 1627 by mati - FINISHED - 1/48
dvm27 replied to mati's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Brilliant work, Mati! -
Looking great, Toni. So much more to go, though. How many years are you into her at this point?
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ancre Le Commerce de Marseille by Zbigniew
dvm27 replied to Zbigniew's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Thats a lovely stern section Zbigniew. -
Ed, The decision to replace the knee of the head and you execution of the rebuild makes us all aspire to be better modelers. As someone who has often done these rebuilds I know that making the decision and anticipation of the work are usually far worse than the actual repair.
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Thanks, Jeff, Good stuff. I've also experienced ten perfect planks the the next few bending. Thanks for the explanation.
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Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
dvm27 replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I know what you mean Maury. I just finished fairing the starboard side of my Speedwell model and it took me almost five days. I actually start with 60 grit paper. Keep applying those pencil marks to show the low spots. I find that I can actually hear when she's faired. -
Welcome back, Bill. Thanks for sharing a current photo of your beautiful model.
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- sovereign of the seas
- carving
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Thank you for the very useful tips gentlemen. I will certainly try Jeff's tip about creating a bit more back clearance on the fence as I often do get binding. Jeff, do you set the .005 gap with a feeler gage? I'll also try using a splitter.
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USF Confederacy by Rustyj - FINISHED
dvm27 replied to Rustyj's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Congratulations on the completion of a very difficult area, Rusty. You've done her proud! -
Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
dvm27 replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I'm afraid I did mine in a much simpler fashion, Maury. I simply placed a small billet of the correct sided dimension on top of the sill and traced the pattern from the adjacent toptimber. This way the bottom is guaranteed to sit flush on the sill. The accompanying photo shows the short toptimber after being cut with the scrollsaw.
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Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
dvm27 replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
In addition, Maury, I would use a fine x-Acto blade or better still, small holes drilled down the center of the spacer to slice it in two. That way you can easily debond each glued joint individually. If you glued the bottom of the sill to the spacers it will probably come out with them but sills are easily replaced. Just apply alcohol to the mortises and scrape out any residual glue. -
Love the way you've fitted the well and shot locker onto the keelson and strakes. It's a difficult job to do without gaps and considering you won't see it later on, it reflects the no-compromise approach you're taking in building this model.
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