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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    Ed, The decision to replace the knee of the head and you execution of the rebuild makes us all aspire to be better modelers. As someone who has often done these rebuilds I know that making the decision and anticipation of the work are usually far worse than the actual repair.
  2. dvm27
    Thanks, Jeff, Good stuff. I've also experienced ten perfect planks the the next few bending. Thanks for the explanation.
  3. dvm27
    I know what you mean Maury. I just finished fairing the starboard side of my Speedwell model and it took me almost five days. I actually start with 60 grit paper. Keep applying those pencil marks to show the low spots. I find that I can actually hear when she's faired.
  4. dvm27
    Welcome back, Bill. Thanks for sharing a current photo of your beautiful model.
  5. dvm27
    Thank you for the very useful tips gentlemen. I will certainly try Jeff's tip about creating a bit more back clearance on the fence as I often do get binding. Jeff, do you set the .005 gap with a feeler gage? I'll also try using a splitter.
  6. dvm27
    Congratulations on the completion of a very difficult area, Rusty. You've done her proud!
  7. dvm27
    I'm afraid I did mine in a much simpler fashion, Maury. I simply placed a small billet of the correct sided dimension on top of the sill and traced the pattern from the adjacent toptimber. This way the bottom is guaranteed to sit flush on the sill. The accompanying photo shows the short toptimber after being cut with the scrollsaw.
  8. dvm27
    In addition, Maury, I would use a fine x-Acto blade or better still, small holes drilled down the center of the spacer to slice it in two. That way you can easily debond each glued joint individually. If you glued the bottom of the sill to the spacers it will probably come out with them but sills are easily replaced. Just apply alcohol to the mortises and scrape out any residual glue.
  9. dvm27
    Love the way you've fitted the well and shot locker onto the keelson and strakes. It's a difficult job to do without gaps and considering you won't see it later on, it reflects the no-compromise approach you're taking in building this model.
  10. dvm27
    Those guns are exquisite Girogio. Each is a little work of art. Yous should send one to each member of the list! The black finish on the unadorned gun (the one without decorations) - how did you achieve it. It's a perfect black finish for a cannon.
  11. dvm27
    Terrific job on the hardest part of the framing, Clay. The rest is just repetition and goes fairly fast. Spend extra time keeping those sills in line.
  12. dvm27
    That depends on the era and nation of the ship, Al. If you are talking about a late 1700 era British warship the 32 pounder cannon was about 9' 6". At 1/4" scale that would be roughly 60 mm. You can purchase 55 mm cast barrels from A. Baranov which are quite exceptional but pricey. You may reach him at shipmodelscontact@yandex.ru
  13. dvm27
    Doris, I'm not usually a fan of figures on ship models but yours complement the model perfectly. May I ask how you made them (or where you purchased them)?
  14. dvm27
    Beautiful job, Rusty!
  15. dvm27
    Your block and tackle certainly pass the close up muster, Remco! Just for reference, what are the dimensions on the background grid squares...1/4"?
  16. dvm27
    Uh oh, Bob...looks like you're still paying for last weekend!
  17. dvm27
    I agree with Michiel - one can but wonder at your work. For me, your metal work and mortises are among my favorites.
  18. dvm27
    Terrific detail, Egen. Like Allan I have not built any large sections off the model but they sure would be easier to do that way.
  19. dvm27
    Thanks for the photos Bob. I knew your Nikon digital SLR would take better photos than my mini Nikon. Your first frame came out terrific and your lucite jig far outdid mine. Hope to catch you at our next workshop in the fall!
  20. dvm27
    That's a real cat-astrophy! I'm not sure trying to increase your bowling average will be any less stressful. We do hope you will regroup and rebuild. The good thing about the cross-section is that it's only a few frames.
  21. dvm27
    You're a gifted model maker Doris. I wonder if you also made doll houses, as your cabin rooms have that feel.
  22. dvm27
    Terrific first frame, Jim. Others might wonder about spending a whole weekend to make one frame. But the techniques you learned will translate to all your scratch building work. If you're worried about that blemish just reverse the frame as the blemish won't be visible on the aft side. Just make sure to reverse the treenail pattern to match.
  23. dvm27
    Here's photo of her prior to fairing the outside Maury. Lots of cast and shifted toptimbers!
  24. dvm27
    Maury, Correct. The small lines between the frames delineates the top of the inboard scupper box (fore) and the pump discharge (aft). I would hold off on these until David covers these in his cross-section updates. You'll want to make sure you deck and waterways are correctly installed first I should think.
  25. dvm27
    Thank you for this Master Class in ship building. Keep those photos coming.

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