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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. This book is a Master Class in ship modelling. Few of us will ever attain the level of skill shown by M. Frolich but we can certainly drool over the beautiful photos of his models. Whether used to improve one's skill-set or simply purchased as a coffee table book you won't be disappointed.
  2. Not on this list, Dan! But we will commiserate with you.
  3. Looking good, Rusty. Now the real fun begins!
  4. Welcome aboard Dan and I'm thoroughly enjoying you Swan construction techniques. We have many Swans on this site but they are a couple of hundred years older!
  5. Looks excellent, Maury. I like the finish also.
  6. Love those Robert's style plate knees, Ed. I've also found photo-etching to be a bit of the black arts, like blackening.
  7. She's a beautiful model and the ship's boats are the icing on the cake. I hope you gave her an equally beautiful setting.
  8. Maury, II would continue using the older version of the plan with the 12" deep keel and keep taking the lines of her as before. The only modification you will need to make is to narrow the filling planks below the lower clamp by 2" total.
  9. Ply, MDF or Home Depot shelving are all fine. I added 1" x 1" x 1/4" square feet to each corner to allow room for the mounting bolts.
  10. Excellent work, Danny! Looks just like David's illustrations. Cooler still I'll bet the wheel turns when you rotate the crank.
  11. Just beautiful work, Nico. I had not seen the motor before. It looks like the real thing from a distance. Was it a kit?
  12. Well, that's a terrific place to break, Toni. She looks amazing!
  13. I used bamboo treenails for all, Maury. There aren't that many on the cross-section. Plus, I had one frame break at the chock joint while fairing. The treenails were still intact and served as perfect guides for the futtock relocation.
  14. Naw...I'm not throwing down the gauntlet to Remco. I just thought he'd appreciate the beautiful detail. It's certainly possible that the molded detail might be an embellishment on the part of the ship modeller.
  15. Ben, I use a 6-32 tap and a no. 36 drill bit.
  16. Beautiful detail on the gallows cross-piece. Just for fun, I've attached the gallows cross-piece on the Navy Board version of the Swan class model in Annapolis. Note the beautiful beaded detail on the bottom edge. Difficult to do, I'd think, even with a scraper.
  17. Nice job on those intake chambers. And they are certainly visible on the finished model...with a high intensity focused light aimed at a precise angle. Any of your ENT illumination devices should do nicely. Make sure the bottom of your pump tubes fit into the chambers. Mine were a bit fat at first and wouldn't fit between the rollers.
  18. Maury, On the port side I just added the clamps and a couple longitudinals. On the starboard side I've added all the planking. The updated text file on the Admiralty Models website has a few photos of this. I would add the upper and lower clamps first as their placement is crucial, then add the filling planks.
  19. Everything is looking perfect Maury. Now is the time to decide how you are going to finish her. Fully planked insideand out? Planked on one side only? Interesting questions.
  20. There's nothing cooler than a submarine model. I look forward to seeing how one is built.
  21. Do the moderators have a policy on members adding photos or illustrations to others builders logs? For example, Mark Sloane mentioned an issue he had making gratings so I posted my solution but under a new topic elsewhere. Perhaps some builders may take exception to others posting photos to their log. Opinions?
  22. Your work is much appreciated by everybody!
  23. Dan's excellent work on his chain pumps prompted me to post these photos from Model No. 43, the Swan class model in the Naval Academy Museum collection. Keep in mind these chain pumps were made over 250 years ago by hand. No photo-etching. Of course these Navy Board models were built by teams of the best craftsmen of the time and the chain pump was no doubt made by a master jeweler.
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