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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    Terrific first frame, Jim. Others might wonder about spending a whole weekend to make one frame. But the techniques you learned will translate to all your scratch building work. If you're worried about that blemish just reverse the frame as the blemish won't be visible on the aft side. Just make sure to reverse the treenail pattern to match.
  2. dvm27
    Here's photo of her prior to fairing the outside Maury. Lots of cast and shifted toptimbers!
  3. dvm27
    Maury, Correct. The small lines between the frames delineates the top of the inboard scupper box (fore) and the pump discharge (aft). I would hold off on these until David covers these in his cross-section updates. You'll want to make sure you deck and waterways are correctly installed first I should think.
  4. dvm27
    Thank you for this Master Class in ship building. Keep those photos coming.
  5. dvm27
    I really love your wood color palate, Gary. Is that Swiss pear for the beams, riders etc?
  6. dvm27
    I found that moving the blade towards the disk mounted in the lathe gave me better control of the cuts
  7. dvm27
    If you could power that up it looks like it would work, Paul. Terrific stuff. All of your seemingly different materials look perfect after painting. Have you described the painting process in any of your photos? What do you fill in the seems with (at cardboard joints)?
  8. dvm27
    For those attending the workshop I will have a table saw if you want to redo your scored rising wood the way bob did.
  9. dvm27
    Sorry I missed your posting before, Bob. You get an A+ for the homework and extra credit for the fancy-pants acrylic squaring jig! Greg
  10. dvm27
    No need for me to re-post my log, Mario. I'll just let your log set the standard. Very well done! Greg
  11. dvm27
    Terrific technique for getting all those mortises lined up, Mark. I like that scoring tool also!
  12. dvm27
    Check out Jerzy's site http://www.jbmodel.eu/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=47_52&products_id=629http://www.jbmodel.eu/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=47_52&products_id=629. His blocks are quite good
  13. dvm27
    Ed, are those spring loaded clamps in the last photo home made or purchased?
  14. dvm27
    Terrific fix and beautiful model, Ron!
  15. dvm27
    I'm not a huge fan of furled sails in static models but only because they usually appear over-scale and bulky. However, it can be done, and to good effect. For example see http://www.shipmodels.com.ua/eng/models/elite/le_rivoli/index.htm and the beautiful work of Dr. Mike. I've read somewhere that decreasing the canvas (model sail) size by 25% helps keep proportions correct.
  16. dvm27
    I also use carpenters glue exclusively for the simple reason that I can debond it when I screw up. Something we Swan class builders get very good at!
  17. dvm27
    Then you, Sir, would have made a fine surgeon! The symmetry of your cuts, especially the port holes is amazing. I love models of this period but wonder where one displays them, due to their size.
  18. dvm27
    Probably just a temporary brain freeze Toni but you wouldn't see a chock from the outside, only the joint between the frames. The outside looks the same regardless of whether the joint is chocked or scarphed. To be honest, I am using chocked joints on Speedwell simply because I find them easier to do.
  19. dvm27
    Dave, Your list is a bit generic so far. If you are building from kits The Period Ship Handbook series by Keith Julier is excellent. If you're scratch building The Fully Framed Model series by David Antscherl and Greg Herbert or Ships of the American revolution and Their Models by Harold Hahn are essential. For general reference of that period Arming and Fitting by Brian Lavery and Englishman of War by Peter Goodwin are essential. Chuck Passaro's practicums and building manuals are terrific for the middle.
  20. dvm27
    I'm thoroughly enjoying the reposting of these excellent logs. Those ribbands on your fully framed hull demonstrate how truly fair you've made her. Quite an elegant hull.
  21. dvm27
    That's funny, Ben. Many years ago my wife asked me what I wanted for my 40th birthday present. I told her I wanted to spend a few days in Harold Hahn's workshop. She thought I was kidding. I was not!
  22. dvm27
    Beautiful, Karl! It looks like the French were very fond of poulet.
  23. dvm27
    Great job on getting those pump angles right, Ed. I had trouble lining up just four!
  24. dvm27
    Thank you gentlemen! Erik, for the tarred joints I use acid free black paper (craft and artists supply stores have this) and white glue. Depending on the joint I'll use thicker or thinner paper and the edges are shaved clean with a blade. I would strongly suggest preparing a test wood/paper/wood sandwich first and applying the finish you prefer as a test to make sure the paper doesn't bleed onto the wood surface. Finally, I perforate the surface of the paper between joints with a pin to make sure glue adequately penetrates through to the other side. I also make sure to use treenails or fasteners in these joints. As yet haven't had a joint failure. I've also used carpenters glue tinted with aniline dye powders. This works well too but is a holy mess.
  25. dvm27
    Welcome back, Karl. You are truly the master of the sectional model!

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