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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. I'm not a huge fan of furled sails in static models but only because they usually appear over-scale and bulky. However, it can be done, and to good effect. For example see http://www.shipmodels.com.ua/eng/models/elite/le_rivoli/index.htm and the beautiful work of Dr. Mike. I've read somewhere that decreasing the canvas (model sail) size by 25% helps keep proportions correct.
  2. I also use carpenters glue exclusively for the simple reason that I can debond it when I screw up. Something we Swan class builders get very good at!
  3. Then you, Sir, would have made a fine surgeon! The symmetry of your cuts, especially the port holes is amazing. I love models of this period but wonder where one displays them, due to their size.
  4. Probably just a temporary brain freeze Toni but you wouldn't see a chock from the outside, only the joint between the frames. The outside looks the same regardless of whether the joint is chocked or scarphed. To be honest, I am using chocked joints on Speedwell simply because I find them easier to do.
  5. Dave, Your list is a bit generic so far. If you are building from kits The Period Ship Handbook series by Keith Julier is excellent. If you're scratch building The Fully Framed Model series by David Antscherl and Greg Herbert or Ships of the American revolution and Their Models by Harold Hahn are essential. For general reference of that period Arming and Fitting by Brian Lavery and Englishman of War by Peter Goodwin are essential. Chuck Passaro's practicums and building manuals are terrific for the middle.
  6. I'm thoroughly enjoying the reposting of these excellent logs. Those ribbands on your fully framed hull demonstrate how truly fair you've made her. Quite an elegant hull.
  7. That's funny, Ben. Many years ago my wife asked me what I wanted for my 40th birthday present. I told her I wanted to spend a few days in Harold Hahn's workshop. She thought I was kidding. I was not!
  8. Beautiful, Karl! It looks like the French were very fond of poulet.
  9. Great job on getting those pump angles right, Ed. I had trouble lining up just four!
  10. Thank you gentlemen! Erik, for the tarred joints I use acid free black paper (craft and artists supply stores have this) and white glue. Depending on the joint I'll use thicker or thinner paper and the edges are shaved clean with a blade. I would strongly suggest preparing a test wood/paper/wood sandwich first and applying the finish you prefer as a test to make sure the paper doesn't bleed onto the wood surface. Finally, I perforate the surface of the paper between joints with a pin to make sure glue adequately penetrates through to the other side. I also make sure to use treenails or fasteners in these joints. As yet haven't had a joint failure. I've also used carpenters glue tinted with aniline dye powders. This works well too but is a holy mess.
  11. Welcome back, Karl. You are truly the master of the sectional model!
  12. More than likely, these Navy Board models were built as collaborations under the supervision of the Master Shipwright. The team consisted of master carvers, jewelers and apprentice shipwrights. Little is known of them but a few have left notes behind hidden in the models and have recently been discovered via endoscopes. One excellent reference on the builders and their models is Ship Models, Their Purpose and Development from 1650 to the Present, by Brian Lavery and Simon Stevens.
  13. Those frames look terrific, Mario. Your system is working well. Greg
  14. Cool jig, Alex. May I assume those joints are silver soldered as the last step?
  15. It's ironic that you overcame modeler's block by modelling blocks. They're quite perfect, as usual. As an aside when I'm facing similar burnout I usually end up cleaning the shop and starting on something simple.
  16. You're definitely set, Dave. I'm thinking of bringing my new Byrnes ropewalk to the workshop so we can all plan with it in the breaks. I don't have any rope stock though so you're welcome to bring some.
  17. Well done. You have passed your homework assignment! I'm happy you made the more complicated scored rising wood as it will definitely make the raising of the frames easier. As Toni said Optivisors for those among us with gray(ing) hair is a great help. If you do all you cutting and fitting with them the accuracy and neatness of your work will definitely improve.
  18. Those quarter galleries are difficult to get right with their sweeping curves and angles. Everything from the wooden shingles to window frames fits perfectly together. Just beautiful, Alex! Greg
  19. This is an exceptional section of Le Commerce, Zbigniew. We do mainly British ships here and it's nice to see such another fine representation of a French ship. Also, welcome aboard M. Delacroix. For those unfamiliar with him M. Delacroix is a renowned designer of ship model plans and drafted the plans for this model and many others. His web site is http://gerard.delacroix.pagesperso-orange.fr/sommaire.htm Greg
  20. Bollard and Hawse Timbers Thanks, all for your kind comments. A bit of serendipity with regards to the crash - many of us are putting up more photos than the first version. The ease of posting them and lack of file size restrictions make it a breeze. The bollard and hawse timbers are among the most challenging to make on the model. As well, they are the first timbers made after the keel, and the learning curve hasn't had a chance to kick in yet. So it's important to take your time getting them right and redo them if necessary (as Ed T. has also pointed out in his excellent log). The last little filler piece has no real pattern. It's just cut over-sized and "massaged" into place. The last photo illustrates the rather diminutive size of Speedwell as compared to an earlier discarded attempt at my Swan class model. The sixth rate looks gigantic compared to Speedwell. Yet they wood both look like longboats compared to a third rate or larger!
  21. Thoroughly enjoyed revisiting your complete log, Ed. Two things stand out. The replacement of the bollard and first hawse timbers and your insetting of the horseshoe and dovetail plates. Both were superbly executed and demonstrate your dedication to accuracy. Greg
  22. She's fitting out very nicely, Toni. Your dog looks a bit mischievous. If it were a male I'd swear it was going to cock it's leg and... Greg
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