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wefalck

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Everything posted by wefalck

  1. Didn't have time (yet) to read through the whole log: did you already build the engine or is that treat this still to come ?
  2. Looks as if some sort of cross-piece would slot into the gaps of the re-enforcements of the washstrake. Perhaps for the slide-mount of a light boat-gun. Not sure, whether the Italian navy of the time would have something like this, but the contempory Prussian navy did. This guns could be mounted on three-wheeled carriages for use in landing operations.
  3. When looking at the little cropped image, I would toss the coin onto the metal side. To me it looks like a piece of cast iron, to spidery for wood, as it has to carry the presumably pretty heavy bell.
  4. It is for American English native speakers probably more difficult than for British English native speakers (I am actually neither ...). To my knowledge it is still current parlance in British English to speak of converting timber into construction parts with the implied meaning of being resource efficient. It seems that in American English the noun 'disposition' in recent years has became a verb ('to disposition'), replacing the original verb 'to dispose' (in the sense of arranging something, such as troops or in this case planks) or the phrase 'to make dispositions', while the meaning of 'to dispose' has narrowed to 'making arrangements for the mangement of waste'.
  5. It was probably to conserve wood and not make things weaker by not using sapwood, where planks needed to be endfastened and caulked.
  6. Mark, I was recently pointed towards this building log: The guy explains his strategy when carving styrene, but he also does quite good wood-carvings, so he knows what he is doing. I scrolled through all 53 pages of the log and there are some interesting ideas in it. Begin at the end, because the carving doesn't start until page 40 or so.
  7. Sapwood is of inferior quality and prone to rot. The term 'English' seems to refer to the origin of the wood. Other source were typically tropical hardwood (not much used in the UK themselves) and Baltic 'deals'. In both cases the sapwood would have probably been removed in a saw mill before shipping, as such woods otherwise may have fetched lower prices. I would interpret Steel in this way: In order avoid sapwood butting against other planks (as was done, when hulls had a rather rounded midship section, but fairer ends) or into the rabbet, the plank was tapered on the upper edge, cutting away the sapwood.
  8. Somehow I missed the brackets. Of course, no stays needed with these.
  9. Yep, turnbuckles at that scale are a challenge ... just wondering, whether shoulnd't be any stays forward too ?
  10. This not 'my' period at all, so I never looked at the build log before. But someone pointed me towards your work with styrene and I scrolled through all 53 pages of it. I must say, I am rather impressed !
  11. Not all boats were built with removable thwarts or with all thwarts removable. Particurly those light ones with bent frames have the tendency to spread and need the thwarts (or other members) as ties. The nesting ones used on warships probably had sawn frames. Not that many people go to the detail as e.g. in this example (and David probably): https://www.arbeitskreis-historischer-schiffbau.de/mitglieder/modelle/kutter-kl-1/ I think not all boats had footrests. It depended on their purpose. The naval cutters were meant to be rowed from the ship to the land and back, for 'amphibian operations', and the likes, where long distances had to be covered efficiently. To the contrary some fishing boats needed a relatively uncluttered space a working platform between the thwarts ... Incidently, Eric McKee has nice chapter on rowing ergonomics in his book on Working Boats of Britain.
  12. Well, many of the museum-modells were and are built by workshops in which there are people with specialist skills, such as painting. Some hobby model-builders become skilled in almost all trades and others struggle with certain skills ... that normal. Both spray- and brush-painting require practice (and knowledge) the latter probably more than the former. However, I think that you can probably get a reasonably good airbrushing kit for less than a couple of hundred quid, rather than 'hundreds'. It also depends on the size you require, which in turn depends on the size of the model(s) you want to paint.
  13. I was about to commend you for your embarrasingly steady progress ... sorry to hear about the set-back - makes you human
  14. In these weird days one always worries a bit in our age group, when someone if out of sight for while ... good to hear that there were good reasons for keeping away from us old sods ... (well actually my wife sometimes tells me that I have the mental age of a 16 year old - I take it as a compliment). Of course, we are keen to see the next instalment.
  15. Well done the ladders. You cross-drilled the wire and soldered in the rungs, I suppose ? It would be a matter of presentation, but if I am not mistaken, the roofs of deck-houses would have some heavily painted canvas nailed on, I believe.
  16. Thanks for the link. I may have seen the site before, but it is good to be reminded of it then ...
  17. Some years ago I tried to trace the builder's model of a German ship build in the 1840s on a British yard. The model had been donated by the builders to the museum in the late 19th century, but then in the 1930s the museum apparently decided to offload items that were not of immediate relevance to British cultural history and they sold the model off. Together with the museum we found an old auction catalogue that listed the model, but the auction house folded in shortly afterwards, so that I could not find out, who the buyer was ... the museum staff were very helpful at the time, I hasten to add.
  18. Where did you hear that the collection has been sold ? It happened that certain items have been sold in the past, but I understand that most of the collection has been put into storage.
  19. Shellac or a nitrocellulose primer (with filler) would be my personal choice for finishing the hull. When rub down with fine steel-wool they would give a nice sheen. This also leaves you the option open, to paint (part of) the hull, if you (or the Admiralty) change your mind. I didn't follow the yawl project, from what period is the boat ? Somewhere else on the forum there was a discussion on exactly that subject: how did they deal with such bluff bows and the fact that the girth of the hull changes dramatically along the length. The solution is to run the bottom planks up to and butt them against more or less horizontal strakes above the turn of the bilge.
  20. A CNC-machine does not make 0.2 mm square holes, for instance, ... it all depends on what you are trying to do with it. They are not necessarily substitutes.
  21. I think, at this size it is still doable and will look crisper than with other techniques. Whether you use photoetching or laser-cutting, you will always end up with corner radii for technical reasons. I have been down the road, albeit at a much smaller scale, but was never 100% satisfied with the result (however, handling non-rectangular gratings of less then 10 mm square with battens 0.3 mm wide was too much of a challenge). Some people mill/saw the grooves into a a sheet of wood, then cross-mill/saw the grooves for the half-thick battens (or perhaps better the other way around, glue the sawn battens in and then mill/sand away the backing wood. In order to get the grain running along the long battens in the chevron, one may need to glue together two pieces of wood cut to shape appropriately.
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