Jump to content

augie

Gone, but not forgotten
  • Posts

    4,669
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by augie

  1. I'll second Mark's WOW. Gets a little hairy toward the end with all the lines.....particularly at your scale. NICELY DONE!
  2. I never tried poly over MS paint. Usually I'm trying to keep the shine down and wind up with a coat of flat acrylic lacquer over paint.
  3. Thanks everyone! Yes Popeye --- I'm having a blast. And Ben is right ..... it has to be 'all ahead, slow' at this point. Beats flank speed....backwards! And don't fret Andy --- this log runs on auto-pilot. If things get out of control 'we'll fight them on the beaches, we'll fight them in the air ....' And Robbyn- There's always room for you at my table!
  4. You have our sincerest condolences on the loss of your brother. He deserves to be on these pages as a part of you.
  5. Time for the promised update ! Planking has begun. I've begun at the channel wales and am working upward toward the chain wales. The planks are basswood. You may recall that we laid out the sweep ports using a supplied paper template. As we begin planking, it is necessary to notch some of the planks to accommodate these ports. Here's a notched plank ready to be laid: Here's where we are after laying the first 8 rows: Both the port and starboard sides are at this point. All of the individual planks are scale length (25-30 feet). The channels themselves will be double planked after we get all the way up to the cap rail. I haven't broken out the belt sander yet to level things out . After the next few rows we'll be notching out for the gun ports. Probably be a good week or more before the next update. She's a lot bigger than I thought.
  6. To me, poly is a good idea. Make sure you use low sheen poly. You don't want any shine on your ship. If it does come up too shiny for your taste even with the low sheen, there are products like Dullcoat which you can apply after the poly an it will flatten right out. I use a brush on dull coat (Testors) but I've read that a lot of folks use a spray on dullcoat. Guess what ----- test it first
  7. It's really up to the builder. Wes (Cookster) is doing his Constitution deck in boxwood using cherry stain and it looks nice. There are virtually endless combinations you can try depending on the wood. Keep in mind it's always best to test off the model to develop the finishing sequence you want.
  8. Beautiful work Gil. Have you ever considered using 'shrink' electrical wire insulation for iron bands? It comes in a wide variety of sizes and accepts paint well.
  9. Yup, mostly natural. I've used everything from 10-50%, depending on what I'm looking for. Play with it! I think you'll be happy.
  10. Glad you got the pre-stain. On basswood, I always use it. Helps keep out blotchiness. On the color, the only reason I asked is that Chuck recommends diluting the golden oak down to about 20-40% with the natural stain. Again, on basswood that keeps the color more even. I think you'll find that 20-40% is what most folks have used.
  11. And here's the link to the Phantom practicum by Chuck....also downloadable from the Model Expo site http://www.modelexpo-online.com/images/docs/MS2027/MS2027-Phantom-Practicum-Complete.pdf
  12. They should be on the Model Expo site. I found Sultana and here's the link for chapter 1 http://www.modelexpo-online.com/images/docs/MS2016/MS2016-Sultana-Practicum-01.pdf
  13. I'm sorry to hear about all the turmoil Popeye. I hope that things can be worked out for the best. Hang in there my friend.
  14. The doors are splendid ! I have that box of 'machined' toothpicks downstairs waiting for the right moment I just became aware of the molding scraper. Chuck supplies one or 2 in his Confed kit. But the dremel/razor blade trick is great!!!! THANKS!
  15. Two questions Richard. Did you use any pre-stain before staining? Did you dilute the minwax Golden Oak at all with Natural stain?
×
×
  • Create New...