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Everything posted by augie
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Lou has you in the right place....again! Your wood is probably a little dry and the variance is in the ballpark. You'll be fine tuning everything when you fair the hull. Plans are also affected by ambient conditions to some extent. I tend to treat them like the Bible. I have a feeling I'll be learning more from you then I can ever return!
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I might consider 5 minute epoxy for this type of work. If you're willing to mix it up in small quantities and hang on for a few minutes it'll set up well, While still wet it wipes off VERY easily with isopropyl alcohol (I use 91% from WalMart) and, once dry it sands much better than CA. Check on some of the RC boat threads.....I'm sure they must ALSO use something on the inside of the planking after it's done to waterproof the hull. Probably a polyester finishing resin. But there again, something like 30 minute epoxy, diluted to a brushable consistency with isopropyl alcohol will nicely seal the inside of the hull in 2 coats. I use it myself inside of the floats for my float planes.
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PVA is a lot easier to work with Robbyn. And more forgiving. I'm just used to using the CA's from my airplane work.
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Looks pretty darned good from here! Safe trip.
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Stain or varnish is a personal preference. Sort of depends on the hull color. The only GF I've seen was fully painted. You'll figure out the base color. Mobbsie has me confused (pretty easy to do). My impression was that this is a base for the ship, not the bottom for the case? In which case the yards don't matter at this point.
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I only mentioned the thick CA because John asked. Like anything else, be VERY sure to try it first before you commit to using it on your pride and joy. And remember you need to have your subject plank pre-bent and spiled (if necessary) so that it is really ready to go. There is zero time available for playing around. One last thing (and here I risk an avalanche of 'heresy' comments), I really believe the thick is less volatile and emits less fumes so it might be less irritating for those sensitive to CA vapors.
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Gee, maybe I should rip it off and do it still again!!!! No, I'm tired of notches. I know Wes mentioned in a recent update (on his beautiful hatches for his Connie) that he had cut some slivers down to 1mm. I got a couple at 0.8 John- I'm a thick CA guy when it comes to planking. Easy to handle, neat and doesn't penetrate right through the wood (in this case, basswood). Holds like iron after 30 seconds so there's no fooling with clamps. One or two copious applications of acetone will soften it enough to remove a plank. Then a sharp exacto blade, a little sanding, brute force and superstition and you're back to square one. Oh, make sure to extinguish the 'smoking lamp'. Thanks for all the well-wishes. Hoping to get back to a normal pace now. Frankly, November was a month I'd just as soon forget.
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No major milestones but time for an update. Planking continues. The mishap with the flying paint jar on the port side was eradicated by removing most of the planking on that side, including 2 of the simulated sheaves, and starting over: The starboard side is at the same point. All of the sweep port openings and gun deck gun ports are completed: I'll be working my way up to the forecastle and QD with the planking. Then a good sanding before I add the second layer of planking to the main and channel wales.
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Beautifully done, my good friend. Though the journey was arduous at times, you have perservered.......no, Triumphed ! You have much to be proud of with her completion. Looking forward to Ildefonso........and BEYOND !!!!!!
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VERY NICE, Piet. Make a whole bunch John! With this new technique in your armamentarium I can almost see a scratch Pequod in your future
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CONGRATULATIONS on being able to use the word 'completed'. I'm setting my clock an hour early to see those photos over a hot cup of coffee. Been a long road, my friend. So sit back and enjoy the moment. We're smiling for you over here :)
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That technique certainly sounds reasonable. But then I think of the scale! What is the cannon itself made of/from?
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McMaster is great. Micro Mark can also provide any number of a specific size bit.
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