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keelhauled

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Everything posted by keelhauled

  1. keelhauled
    my decision was easy...I turned the capstan on my home made lathe and then screwed up the alignment of the holes when I was drilling them. So..I have the bars stored in the rack. I was also going to have the ship with all of the sails set, so I thought that they would be such a hazard on the real ship, they would never be left in place while under way. Still, sometimes it's nice to have details like this. Thus why I'm going to have my anchor chains around the windlass and attached to the anchors (like yours). Under way they would "ship" the anchors onto the fore deck and stow the chain in the locker. But I'm sure everyone would think that I forgot to attach "ropes" or chains to the anchors. The choice is yours, but in the end....the spice must flow
  2. keelhauled
    Very nice work on the modifications and sled!
  3. keelhauled
    Looking splendid!
  4. keelhauled
    shrouds look much better with shorter space between deadeyes. I agree about the waxing. I wax the lines of the ship. Don't know how you would go about waxing rigged lines. Might actually cause damage if you try to do something with them rigged.
  5. keelhauled
    I love this build. Big smile every time I look at the progress! Thanks for making my day
  6. keelhauled
    I'm with Russ. That stiffness makes life Much easier!
  7. keelhauled
    Use an index twist drill and drill from the outside of the hull so that you don't get a burr with the plastic. Take the ends of the line and touch CA (super) glue to the tips so that it is stiff and thread it through. As Joel said, you can just knot on the inside of each one individually. good luck, Marc
  8. keelhauled
    I built this model in college with rigging it from scratch. Can you post a photo of what you are asking about.
  9. keelhauled
    Hi, What year did you purchase the kit? It looks improved since the one that I purchased in 2003. Thanks marc
  10. keelhauled
    Sounds like a good Saturday to me! The eyebolt on the top of the tip of the cat is for the "fore tack." A block is fastened to it for the fore course tack when the yard is hard braced over such that the sheet can't be used.
  11. keelhauled
    There was a master builder, Bill Evans, who recommended balsa fillers in his articles in Model Shipways magazine (I think). He said that it prevented deformations that he observed that occurred in planked hulls over time, especially if there weren't enough bulkheads or frames.
  12. keelhauled
    Looking great! Nice Cats!
  13. keelhauled
    amazing! Can't wait to see the spoons!
  14. keelhauled
    Thanks Nenad, The photos were much appreciated!!!
  15. keelhauled
    Gyula, Thanks for the comments! George, As always, thanks for the likes and keeping up with my progress! Marc
  16. keelhauled
    Don't throw out the colored plates, you might be able to blend those plates with the rest. Place the plates that are already colored in something air tight, while the others are turning color and eventually they will be the same color as the rest. good luck! Marc
  17. keelhauled
    looking good! If you think that coppering will take you more than a week (it takes at least as long as planking the hull- it took me much longer) you might want to take all of the copper plates out and spread them so that they all get oxidized by the air. Otherwise you will get bands of copper oxidized differently. Just a suggestion. Marc
  18. keelhauled
    Jay, that is by far the best lighting effect that I've ever seen in a ship model. Incredible!!!. It looks amazing - very life like. Hard to believe it isn't photo shop! Keep it up! Marc
  19. keelhauled
    I'm Looking at the photos posted for the anchor boards. It is interesting how much perspective changes the appearance of how wide the boards are. The model is taken from Campbell's plans and looks correct dead on when compared to photos taken dead on. but in this post the model's boards looks narrow. Maybe they will look wider when they are painted black.
  20. keelhauled
    I worked on the Cutty's anchor boards. So, like so many objects on this ship, there are numerous versions and paint jobs. Some photos have white strips painted across the boards carrying on the whales. Their shape seem to be somewhat different in various photos. Before the restoration, the shape was more flat vertically, now after the restoration they curve as they go up the ship. In the end, I decided to curve them... Interestingly they look like Nenad's. I guess I shouldn't be surprised since we are modeling the same piece for the same ship. I think I need to shave a little of the thickness near the top. Marc
  21. keelhauled
    me too Nenad!
  22. keelhauled
    Looking awesome! I love the coals with the fire!
  23. keelhauled
    Be safe. We look forward to the build after you've settled back in! Marc
  24. keelhauled
    Looking good!! It always makes me nervous cutting into the hull. You did a great job. I think that the bolts on the ends of the cats might be for cleats. Marc
  25. keelhauled
    As Jeff points out that "you should not use the miter and fence on a cut without a stop." Hopefully you're not using the fence to setup the thickness of your cut. On larger pieces and a saw this is a serious issue and could create kickback that could end up with severe injuries and loss of fingers. Just wanted to comment on the safety aspect.

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