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keelhauled

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Everything posted by keelhauled

  1. Thanks Nenad. George I see your like. So I take it that you think that I should serve the earrings. So I guess that I'm jumping on the crazy train and going down the devil's road!
  2. So I got a serving machine from Chuck! Nice Cherry wood! Before assembly after assembly I played around, but will need to practice to make the serving nice, but not so tight it compresses the line. Nenad, here is a problem. To serve the bolt rope earrings or not? As you say..maybe I'm sliding down the devil's road! After the earrings are lashed there isn't much of it still exposed. Also at any distance you can't really see the tan serving too well. Also, it will add considerable time for 28 or so sails. But...somtimes I do crazy things. What do you think? Anyone else want to weigh in?
  3. SCRAPBOOK EYES Bollards Here is another use of the scrapbook eyes (See post 292). Bollards. These eyes come in many different sizes and I've used several different sizes to make bollards. I drilled holes into a bronze sheet to match the skinny diameter of the eye. Epoxy the eye into the hole so that the large portion of the eye is the top of the bollard. I filled the shaft with epoxy. Paint etc. Here are small bollards that I made for the pin rails of a 1/76 ship Marc
  4. Thanks George and Nenad. I was sewing more bolt ropes last night. Fighting sinus infection today! George, thanks for the source for saw blades! Marc
  5. Made bollards from those same eyes (used for scrap booking) that I used for the anchor chain pipes above. I drilled holes in a piece of brass an then epoxied the skinny side into the brass. I then filled the tube full of epoxy all the way to the top. After curing I painted the mees. I used various sizes to make various sized bollards. Here are the tiny ones that go on the pin rails
  6. SCRAPBOOK EYES There are eyes for scrap booking that are great for many uses. I use them for portholes and any time that I need a circular flange. They come in many sizes. In this example, I used two sizes of the eyes and a wooden dowel to make an anchor chain pipe. Marc
  7. Your planks might be too thin in addition to having too few ribs. If you increase the number of planks and still have the issue try using a thicker plank. If you want to keep the thickness of the thinner plank you could use a plug to build around, then add ribs to the interior if you are showing the inside. Also it doesn't look like you faired the ribs. If they aren't faired the planks won't run smooth. Keep up the good work! marc
  8. Thanks Chris and Harry! Been on the road, but I have made progress, just haven't posted. In between trips back and forth to Europe, I've worked on bolt rope prototypes, chained the spare yards/masts to the deck, made and mounted bollards, built a cradle to hold the middle of the hull and remounted the ship onto it's final base and pillars. I also did some other stuff. I'll try to catch the posting back up with the build. My wife has given me several gifts consisting of equipment, some I'm using now some will wait for Christmas. One that is watiting for Christmas is the Byrnes Table Saw! It has every option except the tilting table! I couldn't think of any real need for it that my disk sander couldn't handle. I checked it over before putting it back into the box for Christmas. I can't believe how quiet the motor is! almost no vibration. just amazing. Every piece is machined/milled and finished like artwork. Here are anchor chain pipes that I made from eyes for scrap booking and a wooden dowel. I drilled the dowel from the bottom and side so that the chain can actually run through them. I used two sizes of the eyes. Marc
  9. The small dark spots looked raised; are they? I see some of the same spots that I had/have from the oils on my fingers etching/oxidizing the copper. I believe that is the large area seen in the second photograph. Did you use super glue? superglue will adhere to fingerprints also and can appear light or dark. some glues will bubble and spread out around the plates under heat (had that problem with the move from Florida. You might be able to pop off the dark bumps if they are adhesive and clean the plate, but then the plate may stand out. I second Nenad's approach. I also applied a sealer - clear acrylic after a couple of years after applying the plates (I wanted them to get a patina.
  10. Great Build! I am glad to hear that you are doing better in the health department. All the best! Marc
  11. Thanks for the info HOP. Definitely have to think the rigging approach out. I'll have to IM you about how you rigged your model when the time comes. I'm planning on rigging stem to stern, and inside to outside.
  12. George, Nenad, Grant, Popeye, and Jules, Thanks for the kind words! It was neat to see all of the pieces coming together. It was also very useful to find issues (ladders that obstruct blocks, etc) as well as how in the world will I be able to belay certain pins and rig dead eyes. I know that lots of people have built this ship and have worked out the same issues. Since I want to rig it with sails, I've had to add the belaying pins into the side rails and build the poop pin rails, as well as add numerous blocks, eyes etc. Now it's trying to figure out how to rig it (I'm using Campbell's plans). some lines will have to go backwards I think, especially some of the lines that either originate or terminate on the masts spiders. Right now I'm trying to make sure that I don't paint myself into corners.
  13. I think that the poop house looks good! I wouldn't sweat any of the heights. no one is going to look at them from the side of the bulwarks anyway. Most likely the viewer will be above looking down, like your photos. Also the deck houses are short. If you see someone standing beside them you can see how short they really are. I Like the card stock mock ups. I use the same process and also small sculptures of sailors: one figure 5 foot tall and one 6 foot tall in scale. lets me make sure of the heights. Real ships are kind of odd in the scales of items like doors and ladders. I've measure doors ranging from 3.5 foot to 6.6 feet on the same ship and ladders only half as wide as my body. if you didn't know the actual sizes, you could go crazy thinking that the heights of the doors were all the same. The Cutty is like this, the door sizes are drastically different between the deck houses and the heads. If you didn't know that you would think that something is wrong with the dimensions - either the deck houses were off or the heads, or the poop - could drive you crazy! Marc
  14. Michael, I was just catching up on the build. Beautiful work, great eye to detail! What a beautiful model. Marc
  15. Nenad, Your decks and dead eyes look great! Sorry i missed the garden party. I love BBQ! Marc
  16. Thanks for the feedback guys. I've been gone on travel. But before I left last weekend, I did a dry fitting of some of the deck details and took photos. I'm not planning on putting this stuff in place until I've done the rigging for that area. i'm planning on rigging from the stem to stern one mast at a time. I can't see how I would be able to belay the lines if the deck houses etc. were in place. No access or room. So here are some photos of the dry fit
  17. I rebuilt the forecastle pin rails. The rails were wide/deep to accomodate the size pins that matched what came with the original kit. I felt like the pins were too large for the type of lines and the rails were too deep. The starboard before I used alcohol to remove the rail The new And the port and the new The ladders were only used when in port. I'm thinking one the jib lines are belayed to the pins with the coils belayed, I can't see how I can put the ladders in place. We'll see Thanks Marc
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