glbarlow
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Everything posted by glbarlow
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Of course it has to have RED. I love that color on my models, accurate or not. I was wary of the printed paper friezes, now having used them on Winchelsea I think them amazing. So much better than painted brass PE. My vote is without the tassels, allowing the blue, also a great ship color, to stand out. -
It isn’t a ‘both ways’ situation. It’s two parts of one process. First the lining, then taper, then edge bending. Check my Cheerful and Winchelsea or a number of other Winchelsea logs including Chuck’s on how it all ties together. I believe the videos also explain this. We should move any further discussion off BE’s build log. This is his space.
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This is the best way to go, not the easiest or the fastest, but the best.
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That looks really amazing Rusty - so much detail, so many curves. You could start over and build a second one 😄
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With a good planer like the Ibex finger plane you just lightly start it were you want it then push forward. The plane will start shallow then cut to the blade depth. Sort of like starting a cheese slicer in the middle of the block of cheese. Hard to describe as it’s a feel thing, practice on some scrap and you’ll have in no time with your skills.
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As Druxey notes it’s best to apply the 7-10-7 ratio to first shave it to an approximate octagon then round it from there. It’s not nearly as hard as it sounds. This keeps everything in the proper proportion. Plenty of posts in this method. In describe some in my Cheerful log regarding the bowsprit. That was my first time too.
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The round part wouldn’t be bigger at the top of the mast. Using square stock and the 7-10-7 ratio to do the rounding is a common method used by many.
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Work the other direction, start with square stock and round it below. An Ibex finger plane is a great tool and another option
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The last step of my process for my Cheerful coils was basically to crush them with my fingers, a little squeeze, a little bend. They ended up looking pretty natural. Not sure how that would work with TiteBond, might be worth a try.
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You’ll be happy with that decision….once the pain goes away. 😁
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I almost literally planked 3 full sides of a hull on my Cheerful. You know the answer, rip it off and do it again. In the long run you’ll be proud of your decision to do so. Trying to force it to work is probably more difficult than pulling back to do it over. Just a heads up, it likely isn’t the last time you’ll want to do something again. I sometimes feel like the first time is just practice. It’s not a race. How’s that for the feedback you requested😊🙄
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Interesting, you started 9 months later than I did and have now past me by. You’ll be done in no time.
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Does This Wood Model Ship Have Any Monetary Value?
glbarlow replied to jtridexter's topic in New member Introductions
I doubt you could give it away as is, not a particularly interesting model and not at all well made -
Good call BE. The extra effort shows well, especially on a hull of this size but really on any hull.
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Take a break, your health comes first. NyQuil is our friend.
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bulkhead bevels
glbarlow replied to Woodshipguy's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The diagram really isn't the right approach to fairing a hull. Maybe on older models to get the rough shape but you can't take too much off. The bulkheads need to be squared up and installed on the former then you sand the whole hull so a batten (long thin piece of work, like a skinny plank) fits smoothly on all the bulkhead front to back. One way to manage is sanding with rougher grades of sandpaper on a sanding block then finish with 220 grit. You don't want to lose the shape of the proper hull so for a beginner leave the back edge of the char on bulkheads forward of midships and the front edge on bulkheads from there to the stern. You'll have to further shape the bow and the stern, but that's entirely model dependent though the batten approach still applies. No way though do you want to carve off a bunch of any bulkhead with a blade before its on the former. There are a ton of build logs on this site that demonstrate fairing, check them out. -
Congrats on the successful octagonal work. I had other planes and never could do much with them, the Ibex finger plane is a work of art and make shaping mast and yards so much more a pleasant task. it was harder to draw the 7-10-7 reference marks than it was doing the actual cutting, something I'm sure you experienced as well. For what it's worth, the sweeps would only be open if in use and an actual sweep (oar) in them. My approach was to make all those little dudes and simply pin them on, requiring only a small drill bit to make the hole and mark the location, a touch of glue and they are there for life. My captain is opposed to rowing so he was fine with this approach. Granado is one of my earliest models and occupies a fond place in my memories, a lot of water past the bow since then. Yours is looking great.
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Winchelsea took me six months, planking is fun stuff Your first planking is looking great, nice start!
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I’m building a high level model that takes a decent level of skill to complete from a design and parts I could never achieve otherwise. These port hinges for example, I could make 20 from a strip of brass, I made one today just to prove to myself I could. But I’d be disappointed taking a week (in my case) because I’d do them over and over to get 20 that looked nearly alike, cause that’s what I do. I’d much rather spend my time on more fun things, like head rails, capstans, chain pumps, pedestals, and ship’s stoves than fabricating 1/16th metal strips. (I did ‘scratch’ all the metal on Cheerful, not that I enjoyed that part). I of course admire those that can scratch build, such amazing work here on MSW. However Chuck has brought modeling to a level us mortals can achieve amazing high results, if we put the work in and don’t just slap it together. It still takes major effort, so scratch building or not I’m pretty happy about consistent believable port hinges from magic metal looking material. Now I’m going to go fabricate a bunch of split rings and eyebolts from some wire.
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Beckman is exceptional, he made those out of ivory from old piano keys. Before you get overwhelmed ther are simpler ways to do bulkheads. I scratch built the one for my Pegasus, it doesn’t have to be that hard.
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Dust masks and respirators.
glbarlow replied to Bill Hudson's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
While I frequently use a standard dust mask, a respirator for the work we do in modeling seems a little over the top. -
The raised bulkheads sound exciting, though too late for me, and having been one that has broken a scroll work or two I can see the advantage. The challenge might how it matches up to the surrounding molding and not having seen it how it looks matched up to wood in general. I’d like to see it as the head rails someday, is that a place where this material vs. wood wouldn’t be an issue? (I can be your beta tester😊). Yes, the scroll work and stern decorations are certainly a game changer as are many other Winchelsea innovations. I get to see that every day. Can you make black port hinges with it, or pedestals- those things there are multiple of and challenging to made consistent copies.😊
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What, no char! What’s the world coming to. Those are some nice looking windows.
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Sounds like a good solution. Just won’t make that big a difference in the grand scheme.
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It’s a tough question about being symmetrical or going for an improved look, one not easy to answer. On display only one side shows obviously but we as the builder know there is a difference. I’d recommend trying “bending the wrong way” method, once you learn it you’ll love the result. That’s second part of the process, the first are the tick strips, making it easier to understand where to start the taper and how much to cut from the plank for the taper and you’ll not need stealers. It takes longer, but it looks so much better. Perhaps blending the two methods so your other side is an improvement but still somewhat mirrors the first side. Also good call on the CA and how you applied it. I use CA medium for planking, edge gluing is never needed. You could even just spot glue about the distance between bulkheads and still be fine. One other suggestion is to consider a butt shift pattern, doesn’t matter how long or how spaced they are, just a consistent repeating pattern on where horizontal planks meet on your run bow to stern. That said, your planking is well done, boxwood is such a nice wood. Once sanded and finish applied you’ll have a very fine looking model. I’ll enjoy watching your progress on this excellent Vanguard model.
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