glbarlow

Looking good Glenn, and I mean UK Glenn, not me😂

It looks from here as though you’re right on track. With your attention to detail I’m sure it will be absolutely fine.

Wow, those columns are absolutely gorgeous. If you want to make another set, send them my way😳😂 That is really excellent work, just one would be impressive, having so many absolutely identical is really amazing.

I wasn’t all that sure about the paper friezes at first. After spraying them with fixative and now having applied them all with the recommended stick glue I’m happy with how they turned out. Short of hand painting, way beyond my skills, I think it’s the best answer. Yours, like your amazing planking, look absolutely great.

Very interesting and precise approach to building your own. You’re on the right path, it is critical to get the stern framing accurate. It will pay dividends later, well done!

Thanks Kevin, Chuck makes that part a lot easier with his design. Thank you Jean Paul for saying so, I do try to share what I’ve learned, not sure how good it is but I try. Thanks for the kind words. My great grandfather was a stone cutter. He built a stone wall along a Kentucky highway famous for its many horse farms. The wall was built without any mortar, just the fit of the rocks. It still stands today and a historical landmark, they wouldn’t move it when they widened the road. Despite state sponsored effort no one knows how to duplicate it. So maybe I inherited some small part of that skill. Thanks Jim, I appreciate the comment and glad I can help as I’ve been helped. Thank you Dusan. I just go into to a zone, cut, bend, shape, cut, bend, shape….so fun. I still have so many to go. It’s worth it though, helps bring life and realism to our models.

I seriously doubt it would carry a cutter at all, way too big, maybe a jolly boat towed behind. These were fast ships that mostly worked in local waters, a ships boat wasn’t essential would think. As you can see from the deck there is not really a place to easily store one.

Simply outstanding! You are more than ready for a return to Winnie. It’s a huge investment, if you’d feel better starting over you should, if you can move forward from where you are you should do that. At any rate we await your return. I was glad I did Cheerful first, so much I learned there I’ve applied and built on now. I’m sure you have that same confidence!

I agree for what it’s worth, cut a new piece at the first seam, minimize filler.

As JJ notes it must be flush on both sides for the sheaves to be mounted

I really like the cherry, I came very close to doing the same thing. Having rigged just 12 carronades on Cheerful I know the time I spent doing it. You’ve done 28 and they all look exactly the same, no small feat! Very precise, very nice. Your lighting makes for fun and interesting photos. Such a great looking model, congratulations on chapter 6 and of course the work you’ve done well beyond that.

Of Wires and Wood An update on the visually small but fun stuff on and about the deck. First up were the ladders. Always fun to square up these. Very nice that I didn’t have to scratch make them as I did on Cheerful. The laser cut ones provided by Chuck are a step up (see what I did there) for anything I could make. As others have noted I had to thin the edges of rounded steps for a tight fit into the ladder sides. While this is time consuming (since when did that matter) it made for a better and easier fit. Char removal is essential and so much fun on the small steps and ladder rails. I’m getting the hang of it by now, especially after a short post Chuck provided on this a while back. A single edge razor blade to remove the gummy part, then lightly, and the key is lightly, sanding with a 320 grit flexible sanding stick, one I repeatedly clean on the big rubber bar I described in an earlier post (and yet another thing learned on MSW). A light coat of WOP and they are installed, following the plans for height and location. I managed to do this without them disappearing forever inside the lower deck. Very happy about that. Avoiding the port lids and hinges for a while I moved on to the staghorns and cleats. The mill was feeling left out so I used it to drill centered holes for the pins used to attach them the bulwarks. An under utilized tool in this case but it made for quick work and a constant location. I inserted those little nails we all have in abundance for the pins. More char removal on the very small cleats. The red paint I use in thin coats won’t cover the char so it all must be removed. In the process each cleat was rounded and shaped with the fluted ends common to all cleats. The staghorn ends were also shaped up. The pins are a nice hold point while painting, I used four coats. They stood on their pins in the foam block between coats. The blue tape on the pliers served only to protect them from the paint brush. Once the last coat was dry I cut off the pins to about 2mm in length so I didn’t go all the way through the hull. I decided that would not be good. There are many many eyebolts and split rings on our models. Both to avoid the hinges a little longer and to continue to tackle (I did it again) the wire work in stages I elected to add all I needed for the 28 ports. The first step was coming up with a jig to ensure a consistent location. I cut out a port from the plans, glued it to a piece of 1/32 cedar, measured and drilled the holes through the paper and by consequence the wood, and cut out the port itself. There has to be a constant and I didn’t feel like the deck was it. What is constant is the spirketting running along the bottom of every port. First I used the deck for the 4 ports with cabin walls then I cut off the jig to the exact bottom of the port (on the paper cutout) and I had my jig. The top piece you see is just to stiffen up and reinforce the 1/32 wood. Once it was made I remove the paper, just easier to see the holes. With this and a couple of clamps to hold position I made fairly easy work of drilling the holes. Yes I did it by hand, no way was I going to trust even a slow turning drill, or more precisely trust me, not to go through the hull. As I mentioned I decided this would not be good. There are four eyebolts and two split rings for every port. Because I count these things that meant 112 eyelets and 56 split rings. Of course I made more than that, there were one or two rejects, I forget how many, maybe more than two. Now there are just that many less when I start making guns. With that done and the cleats installed I’ve run out of things to do to avoid making lids and hinges. So off I go to do that. Thanks as always for stopping by with your likes and comments. They are always appreciated.

Right there with you🫣🤔

Excellent planking!

Wow! Really well done. Where is the not perfect part, I can’t imagine them done any better. Always look forward to your posts and imagine a day when I get this far, and only hope I do it near as well. I might as well ask for that third set now.

Well done, I will remember using those lines to line up the carlings. Nice and crisp!

Not only does it offend the eye I’m not sure how practical it is. Much more practical to me is like you’re doing, shifting the joints of the planks. Not only is it a practice run for the second planking it makes for a sound hull, as well as showing the true run of the planks. Nice work!

Not correcting JJ, just amplifying, the square stock is indeed useful for leveling and keep the respective sides lined up, it takes a village. Glad it’s helpful, I refer to JJ’s and others all the time. It takes a village, oh I already said that 😊

Just remember that ultimately the ports aren’t square as they follow the sheer. This gets to be fun planking above the wales.

No way, my eyes would give out and I’d break every part.

Late to the party… Is the second planking going to follow the pattern of the first?

Well that was impressive Chris. Right on point of the post with a clear and sharp answer, and one founded on just the least bit of information. Nice!

Why is dying a question, thread and rope are available in every color needed. Wasn’t dying a thing with old, long ago kits that just through in white cordage. I’ve used both CA and diluted white PVA (my formula is simple, it’s right when it’s milk not milkshake) both work fine in different ways with different results. I now prefer clear matte acrylic (my choice is Liquitex) for most rigging and especially ratlines. It dries clear and near invisible leaving no shine or lumps. Rather than read all our opinions, do a test abs see what works best for you.

Congratulations and well done James, very cool!

Looking nice, glad you’re returning to the bench.