glbarlow

A squared up frame is a great start, ready set plank😊

You’re close to the finish line, it looks great! So you’re allowed to work in such a nice part of your house😂

I found Chucks recommended approach of measuring and cutting the sills based on the measurement between bulkheads up next to the former, not at the outside where they go, critical to keeping the ship square. I agree with Chuck, you can find and make adjustments to recover from a 3mm variance. It’s a really big model, there are and will be more such opportunities. I also cut out the side profile of the quarter port framing and frequently held it as a guide to positioning and length. It seems some of yours may not be beveled to fit the angle. Hang in there, you can make the need adjustments and keep moving forward.

https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/

Those look really nice, can you mail me a few dozen😜

I could think of a few others, but thank you very much.

Thanks Frank, I appreciate your saying so.

Ha. We’re going on an Alaskan cruise starting from Vancouver in September, let me know how it goes. I hope you both have a great trip! Don’t forget the hard shell golf bag carrier to fill with the Alaskan Yellow Cedar 😂

It your expansive build board is an indication you’re off to a great build. Welcome to the project.

Precision here pays big dividends when you plank the counter and later and the transom piece. Test fitting Chapter 3 parts where you can really helps as does cut out copies of the friezes. it’s all looking great, nice work.

Thank you. It’s such an important part of the model. Thanks. Just trying to do well with all that wonderful AYC.

Thanks for the comment. I think it takes time because we know what we’re doing😊

An Upright Hull at Last Thought I’d share a few photos of my Winchelsea hull upright. I thought about what would be easier to do now than later in the build, following the always good practice of reading ahead. I drilled out the rudder port. To line it up I cut out a copy of the counter frieze and loosely taped it to the counter (I’ll get a better fit, only concerned about the rudder port) after cutting out the black area representing the port, drew a pencil line, drilled a hole, and worked my way out with a #11 blade and sanding sticks. I pulled out the rudder pieces from Chapter 5 and held the two parts together that pass through the port (the dark line shown in the photo is the rudder) to confirm the hole was big enough. I stopped well short of the black line, I’ll adjust later as needed. The still unassembled rudder went back in the bag. I used the jig from Chapter 10 to determine the height of the stern frames and cut them down about 1/8th higher than the jig to allow for future adjustments. Why not paint them black, as they eventually must be, while I’m at it. I will admit I broke one during the hull planking, fortunately it was a clean break and easily glued back together. I waited until the planking was complete, it has bothered me looking at it all that time. Now it’s fixed. Finally I painted the stem. It was always going to be black, I’d rather deal with occasional touch up and get it done now while it’s relatively easy to do. With that the hull is prepped and ready for the next steps, the transom, upper counter, and quarter galleries - can’t wait. Once again, excuse the rushed iPhone photos with their work light glare. As always thank you for stopping by with your likes and your comments. I really appreciate it.

Those channels look great, appreciate the build suggestions.

Just amazing work, the level of detail and craftsmanship never ceases to amaze.

Thank you. I just finished 4 months single planking HMS Winchelsea, a 1/48 frigate considerably larger than Vanguard. Though it took a long time it was and is much more enjoyable than those copper plates. Everyone should do it once 🤣Best of luck with yours, my anti-copper position shouldn’t deter anyone. It’s builders choice.

That must have been a typo, my model is 1/72

The AVS was my first model. I learned a lot from it and enjoy the result to this day.

Thanks Rusty, I do think imay have taken every plan a project to the extreme in some cases🤣

It was a challenge for sure, but as Chuck says a slow process from the center out. Sorry you have to restart with the frames. I still vividly remember my Cheerful frame, nearly done, falling to the floor and shattering. That hurt, starting over is all I could do.

The best alignment tool is that pattern cut out of the plans with everything cut but the frames, then double-side tape to middle two and use that to space the frames. then the window sills which in addition to length have a beveled angle to sort out. It’s a fun challenge.

As I'm sure you noted the transom is curved, the outer frames are closer to the hull than the two middle ones, and that you'll be able to account for that curve once its "in air" on the frame. The bottom outside of those doubled up outer frames get carved quite a bit to follow the curve of the wales. When you get to that point I found a cutout of the transom frieze a good tool to match up that curve with the wales and the frieze. The frieze design allows a little room to be small, but no room to be big on that shaping.

Your precision will pay dividends later. The hull is so big that small errors in geometry are magnified, very thorough approach to keeping that from happening. Surprisingly for me I found the fairing (and later planking) between bulkheads S and U a bigger challenge than what I would have guessed would have been U and W. Getting the correct angle/bevel is key.

Old school doing it by hand. I agree, very nice work

I checked, I don’t have any scrap steel. Your garage must be a haven for all things modeling 😳😊 As always you set the standard for rigging. Anyone needing any help with any model should consult your Speedy and Duchess builds for techniques, methods, and how to achieve them.