Jump to content

glbarlow

NRG Member
  • Posts

    3,829
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by glbarlow

  1. You’ve made a really nice model BE, it all looks great. The “borrows” from chuck’s Winnie really step an already excellent design from Chris. We’re all fortunate to have these two outstanding designers to help guide our work.
  2. I’m certainly no expert and I’m sure however you want to do it will turnout great. From a model perspective I doubt just crossing it would stay in place, either a small seizing or a dab of CA. Hopefully people smarter than me might have a suggestion. I’d not seen your way before now, which doesn’t mean anything I see something new on this forum all the time. I admire your goal to rig them all, it will look great.
  3. I’d like to make the captains cabin floor using two different woods in the traditional diamond pattern. I’m sure there is a method for doing this that will produce an even consistent floor at about 3/64 thick. Anyone have a tutorial I could reference or suggestions how to go about it?
  4. A suggestion, I think the breaching rope would be a crossed loop at the rear of the gun rather than seized. The rigging looks great, the natural flow of the ropes is very impressive.
  5. I get that. I thought my purpose built room was more than big enough, now I wish I had more bench space, but then the rule of fill all available space would result in more tools. What I really need is a dust vacuum to attach to those nice holes on my Byrnes tools and doesn’t take up all the floor space. You have a nice shop, we don’t have basements in Texas due to the soil conditions.
  6. I’m very glad it is of help, that is my primary goal for my logs - to help others as I’ve been helped.
  7. You may want to check the rake of the masts mounted this way, or maybe it will look like it’s charging forward 😂
  8. As Chuck notes the first layer is all the same thickness, it is the second layer where the black strake is thinner.
  9. Nice crisp paintwork, so important to do right yet some seem to splash it on, well done. Ultimately it’s up to you and seems you’re committed now. However the model will appear unleveled once mounted in my opinion. I used two different height brass pedestals to account for the natural waterline. I believe the provided stand also accounts for this and could be used to mark the line. I think it would be hard to change course from here on the paint but you may want to see how it looks with the sheer parallel to the stand verses the keel.
  10. I’m sure I borrowed it from someone else when I was building Cheerful, you’re welcome to it. It was especially helpful down around and below the deck area, far away from the fairing cap. The balsa makes it easy to cut and install.
  11. How do you get on with this tool Thank you for the comment. I do recommend it, It only does light work on small areas, but sometimes that’s what I need and it can be more targeted than me with a sanding stick. For the price it’s worth it as another tool in the bag, and who doesn’t need more tools.
  12. Taking out all that inside stuff and sanding to keep the bow the right shape and the hull symmetrical, slow is the only option😊
  13. Here’s a task I’m glad to have behind me, completing the bulwark/inside fairing. Always a bit nerve racking to get a consistent 3/16 throughout. Chisels, sanding tools, a Proxxon Pen sander, and a light touch with a Dremel all came into play. In addition to the fairing caps, which eventually will be covered up, I elected to use the same method I used for Cheerful, I inserted 1/8 balsa as a guide which together with the planking got me close to 3/16. This too will eventually all be covered, it has served its purpose. My son said it would be helpful when he floats it in the pool, not funny. It’s looking more and more like a ship. Now for the wales after adding two rows of planking below. Once that’s done I disappear into a deep cave planking and planking and planking. Thank you for all the likes and comments, they are always appreciated.
  14. Excellent work. The planking, without excessive fill and paint over, is especially impressive. While I now have a lathe I masted many models with the drill and hand sand method BE described. Just go slow and measure tapers frequently.
×
×
  • Create New...