glbarlow
-
Posts
4,130 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by glbarlow
-
Other than mini me I don’t care much for figures on models, but between Chris’ models and Chuck’s friend’s paintwork I must say I’m very impressed with the detail and quality work. They do a great job of depicting the scale of our 1:64 and 1:48 models and are nice to have for that reason alone. -
That photo looks frighteningly real😳
-
Great work on the boats. I built the same number for Vanguard, I didn’t enjoy it as much as you have nor do mine have near the level of detail you’ve included. Well done! I’m sure your choice for display will highlight the boats as well as the ship
- 857 replies
-
- 5
-
-
-
- Sphinx
- Vanguard Models
- (and 1 more)
-
The points about the suitability of a model for single planking are valid, if there is too much space between bulkheads you’re just making bulding hard. Plus a model designed for double planking is just that, other aspects of the model are designed for the thickness of the second planking. The other benefit is the second planking is going to be neater than the first given the support it’s provided. Single or double, heat bending, I see Gregory liked the videos, is the way to go. The vertical bending has to be done first. Done right the bending the wrong way thing) it’s purpose mostly eliminates the need for a lateral bend even for a bluff bow. The upswept stern needs lateral help, it’s just practice on how to gently hold heat and bend. More challenging sure but it won’t erase the vertical bend. As you can read, there are lots of opinions, my logs show how heat bending works for me, including the smaller and simpler Flirt. Test and try thing out.
-
It really is easier, takes a little to get used to but once you do you'll never go back to soaking. The planks have to be bent to shape on two planes, heating is the best way to do that. There is very little limit to how much a quality piece of wood can be bent....and often unbent if you go too far. You can't force it into shape with nails. You actually bend them 'the wrong way' to get the fit. Check out the logs, there are also videos somewhere with the method explained by Chuck. The sawdust method is a good way to correct mistakes, you aren't going to be able to universally do that on every plank without it showing.
-
How did they sit on the small thing, while the waves are pounding away and the bow bouncing up and down.... So nobody says, hey Cap' can I use your quarter gallery....
- 1,784 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
-
And here we thought you just made this stuff up as you went along 😂🤣😂 I am quite confident both yours and Chuck’s designs are throughly researched and fully historically accurate. It cracks me up when some question some minute detail. It is of course worth noting, again, your business model to create models everyone can build requires some compromise, @glennard2523 is a good example of out of the box building. None of the compromises can’t be undone by skilled modelers, look no further than @Blue Ensign or @DelF with their approach to Vanguard models. You’re doing great Chris, thanks for upping the quality of ship model design.
-
Thanks for the linked reference. Pre-bending is essential, in my experience Chuck’s heating technique, which I use exclusively noe, is the way to go. In my opinion and experience CA is the most effective and reliable adhesive for planking. Not all CA is created equal, I use Smith Industries medium. Applied correctly it work great. As noted I do my best to describe all this in both my Cheerful and Winchelsea logs, both single planked ships, no pin holes needed.
-
It is of course your model, I’m certainly no maritime historian.
-
They will vary based on the start of the bow and finish at the stern driven as dictated by the pattern. Check the length of those midship on the plans, the sheet showing above the wales planking. I’m sure you’ll sort it out, it does stand out nicely once planking is complete.
-
The curved planking is tricky, but so worth the effort once sorted out. Your Cheerful is looking great.
- 113 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- Cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
-
I agree it’s important we share what didn’t go well and how we adapt to make it work That most benefits those that follow. Just as your post will help me when I arrive at this point. Well accomplished Rusty!
- 642 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
-
As a suggestion the plank joints should follow a consistent pattern that would always end on a bulkhead. The plans show this above the wales. I extrapolated a pattern from those and kept track of it as I planked the hull. Another of Chucks suggestions is to print out the bow cap rail templates from Chapter ten and match your bow to those now while it’s easier to make adjustments if needed Nice work, you’re very thorough.
-
This is really great work, well done. Doing the bulwarks before the frieze work seems a good idea.
-
Well done. Amazing design and assembly. I never quite comprehend the speed you manage to do this work.
- 488 replies
-
- 8
-
-
- Indefatigable
- Vanguard Models
- (and 1 more)
-
I do not like planking ships boats, such a pain. You’ve done a very nice job of it.
- 102 replies
-
- 3
-
-
-
- Flirt
- Vanguard Models
- (and 1 more)
-
Just a thought: I did the Flemish coil thing on a few models (including Granado) then learned they were seldom used on working ships. I’ve since preferred natural rope coils as a more, well, natural look as I did on my Cheerful.
-
Looks pretty white to me. I have models with holly decks that are still quite white even years later.
-
Really like the display, exceptional work on the model especially the ships boats, well done BE!
- 857 replies
-
- 4
-
-
-
- Sphinx
- Vanguard Models
- (and 1 more)
-
Great work Rusty! Sorry about the Covid, hope you’re better soon.
- 642 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
-
As Chris points out, his kits are designed for a broad range of skills to build. Tapering of the stem could lead a modeler to far more problems that it’s worth. I’m not sure the worth of frequently pointing out small variances in a kit that make little difference to most. It’s perfectly understandable why the instructions would not suggest this modification. I have completed the hull for Chris’ Flirt and in fact I did taper the stem, because I was reasonably comfortable doing it. At this scale, unlike the stem on my Winchelsea, it’s barely noticeable. Let kits be kits.
- 102 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- Flirt
- Vanguard Models
- (and 1 more)
-
We’ll done and beautifully built Rusty. Another fine model!
- 201 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- Duchess of Kingston
- Vanguard Models
- (and 1 more)
-
Allow me to offer my expert opinion on the topic, based on my extraordinarily deep experience and expertise in building wooden models from a multiple manufacturers, expertise that is known far and wide throughout the modeling industry and is an unquestioned source, though I don't have a cool name like 'stargazer' Cool, it looks nice. 🤣😂🤣
- 488 replies
-
- 11
-
-
-
- Indefatigable
- Vanguard Models
- (and 1 more)
-
You’re going to need a bigger room😊
-
Printed and added to my build notebook. Thanks Chuck.
- 1,784 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
Our Emblem ®
