glbarlow

Well done Joe, you’re on your way now. JJ’s suggestion is a good one, the next challenge is to get a good fit for the lower counter with the fairing on those outer frames. Also a good flow for the transition from counter to stern post with fairing the stern fillers.

Really well done! All your extra touches, especially the friezes, headworks, and your deft touch on the scroll work really make this version of Sphinx stand out above all others. Consistent with your usual outstanding work your result and the well defined and detailed log you've provided will be the preeminent guide all others can follow. Very impressive!

That’s one great looking transom! Nice work on the cannon carriages, you must have hours in on removing char so well, do you have a secret method😊?

I first learned, then quickly purchased, about Quad hands from @Delf. Another nice thing for those interested is there are several models and sizes, all are available on Amazon. It is indeed a great tool. Another option for weathering powders is Doc O’Briens Weathering Powders, I got mine from MicroMart. I Have a dedicated brush set for application. I agree with Ron, both are excellent additions, whichever option, to the workshop. Appreciate his sharing their versatility with his excellent build.

Well done, your spars, masts, rigging and seizings are all very tight and crisp. Excellent photography as well!

Great looking model Rusty. Very crisp and tight!

A squared up frame is a great start, ready set plank😊

You’re close to the finish line, it looks great! So you’re allowed to work in such a nice part of your house😂

I found Chucks recommended approach of measuring and cutting the sills based on the measurement between bulkheads up next to the former, not at the outside where they go, critical to keeping the ship square. I agree with Chuck, you can find and make adjustments to recover from a 3mm variance. It’s a really big model, there are and will be more such opportunities. I also cut out the side profile of the quarter port framing and frequently held it as a guide to positioning and length. It seems some of yours may not be beveled to fit the angle. Hang in there, you can make the need adjustments and keep moving forward.

https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/

Those look really nice, can you mail me a few dozen😜

I could think of a few others, but thank you very much.

Thanks Frank, I appreciate your saying so.

Ha. We’re going on an Alaskan cruise starting from Vancouver in September, let me know how it goes. I hope you both have a great trip! Don’t forget the hard shell golf bag carrier to fill with the Alaskan Yellow Cedar 😂

It your expansive build board is an indication you’re off to a great build. Welcome to the project.

Precision here pays big dividends when you plank the counter and later and the transom piece. Test fitting Chapter 3 parts where you can really helps as does cut out copies of the friezes. it’s all looking great, nice work.

Thank you. It’s such an important part of the model. Thanks. Just trying to do well with all that wonderful AYC.

Thanks for the comment. I think it takes time because we know what we’re doing😊

An Upright Hull at Last Thought I’d share a few photos of my Winchelsea hull upright. I thought about what would be easier to do now than later in the build, following the always good practice of reading ahead. I drilled out the rudder port. To line it up I cut out a copy of the counter frieze and loosely taped it to the counter (I’ll get a better fit, only concerned about the rudder port) after cutting out the black area representing the port, drew a pencil line, drilled a hole, and worked my way out with a #11 blade and sanding sticks. I pulled out the rudder pieces from Chapter 5 and held the two parts together that pass through the port (the dark line shown in the photo is the rudder) to confirm the hole was big enough. I stopped well short of the black line, I’ll adjust later as needed. The still unassembled rudder went back in the bag. I used the jig from Chapter 10 to determine the height of the stern frames and cut them down about 1/8th higher than the jig to allow for future adjustments. Why not paint them black, as they eventually must be, while I’m at it. I will admit I broke one during the hull planking, fortunately it was a clean break and easily glued back together. I waited until the planking was complete, it has bothered me looking at it all that time. Now it’s fixed. Finally I painted the stem. It was always going to be black, I’d rather deal with occasional touch up and get it done now while it’s relatively easy to do. With that the hull is prepped and ready for the next steps, the transom, upper counter, and quarter galleries - can’t wait. Once again, excuse the rushed iPhone photos with their work light glare. As always thank you for stopping by with your likes and your comments. I really appreciate it.

Those channels look great, appreciate the build suggestions.

Just amazing work, the level of detail and craftsmanship never ceases to amaze.

Thank you. I just finished 4 months single planking HMS Winchelsea, a 1/48 frigate considerably larger than Vanguard. Though it took a long time it was and is much more enjoyable than those copper plates. Everyone should do it once 🤣Best of luck with yours, my anti-copper position shouldn’t deter anyone. It’s builders choice.

That must have been a typo, my model is 1/72

The AVS was my first model. I learned a lot from it and enjoy the result to this day.

Thanks Rusty, I do think imay have taken every plan a project to the extreme in some cases🤣