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glbarlow

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Posts posted by glbarlow

  1. Just be sure your blocking doesn’t prevent you from centering the mast including it’s rake. I didn’t add anything because I know from experience I want a bit of play when it comes time to step the mast. 
     

    You should consider painting those carriages red. They will stand out unpainted. 
     

    But it’s your model. First hand experience is the best teacher. 

  2. The gun port pattern should near equal the first planking.  Hold up a strip of that lime wood below it, it should be close.  There is some room to sand them to match before the second planking, which covers both the pattern and the first planking. 
     

    I hope you’re taking advantage of looking at several other build logs, there are many here on the forum. 

  3. Thanks for the reference. I’ll follow along and offer what help I can. The log was originally done on another site, I copied it and posted here on MSW so the posts appear a bit long since I combined them. 
     

    There are some nuances to LN, I recommend reading through a few logs to take advantage of what others learned. My biggest recommendation for any modeler is to learn Chucks plank bending technique. It’s a game changer and worth the time. The 

    LN is a nice model to learn it on. 
     

    Have fun and don’t be reluctant to ask for help. Every experience level is represented in this forum. I’ve not met one that wasn’t willin to help. 

  4. I posted this as a reply on Derek’s log about technique I discovered making rope coils (described in post #687 and shown above). I thought it might be helpful as additional information here. I made and rejected a lot, but in the end I think they look worthy of Cheerful. So here it is:

    3F833752-5AA5-46D6-8C56-2CEA03374898.thumb.jpeg.b246d50aab81d9b2d9e69ac079b4b444.jpeg

     

    A couple of nuances I did with my modified approach that might help: a. the loop is top side over bottom to start it, then continue that loop for a full 360 degree turn before putting over the pin on the coil jig, it’s easy to stop with the first loop but it doesn’t look as good. b. Pulling the top rope for tension (referring to post #687)  is a bit of the art, not too tight, not too loose, before painting the clear acrylic.  c. The smush after it’s dried is, for me anyway, what makes them more realistic.  I even paint the inside of bottom the bottom loops of the finished coil with a little water so it’s not so stiff.  d. The clear acrylic helps, it dries more natural than watered down glue), but it isn’t a true adhesive so the CA on the back side of the loop is essential in holding it all together. e. My jig has one size for cleats another for pin rails. The difference is the size of the loop and the length of the coil. It’s specific to 1:48 Cheerful, I’ll have to make a new one for a 1:64 model.  

  5. Thanks for the reference 😁. A couple of nuances I did with my modified approach that might help: a. the loop is top side over bottom to start it, then continue that loop for a full 360 degree turn before putting over the pin on the coil jig, it’s easy to stop with the first loop but it doesn’t look as good. b. Pulling the top rope for tension (referring to my post #687) is a bit of the art, not too tight, not too loose, before painting the clear acrylic.  c. The smush after it’s dried is, for me anyway, what makes them more realistic. I even paint the inside of bottom the bottom loops of the finished coil with a little water so it’s not so stiff.  d. The clear acrylic helps, it dries more natural, but it isn’t an adhesive so the CA on the back side of the loop is essential in holding it all together. e. My jig has one size for cleats another for pin rails. The difference is the size of the loop and the length of the coil. It’s specific to 1:48 Cheerful, I’ll have to make a new one for a 1:64 model. I hope this helps. 

     

    I made so many and rejected so many to get ones I liked. I’d make more probably if I hadn’t run out of rope. At some point my mini-me standing on the deck said ‘enough, move on. 
     

    The detail in your rigging looks great by the way. Such detail and precision. 

  6. I like the pattern on the inside of the stern, especially with the frames showing and after it was painted, I did it that way on purpose. I also brush painted it with thin coats so that I can tell it’s planks and not a solid sheet.  But to each his own, it needs to be the way you like it.

     

    i agree with Chuck, of course, about beveling planks and evening up the back before you get to the fashion pieces. 
     

    You’re making nice progress, it’s a relief to be past thinning those outside stern frames. 

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