glbarlow

One of the most amazing models I’ve ever seen on this forum, or anywhere else!

Nice work on the fine details. It is these little mini-projects that make this model stand out above all others. Glad to see you making the time to do them right. 

Another excellent model BE, congratulations!  I have followed your detailed and instructive logs for years now, they were a constant reference for me for my own Pickle and Pegasus. I like the display and the partial matting, a unique presentation. I have the goal to create a book on my Winchelsea, inspired by your creating one for all your models. looking forward to what’s next. 

Congratulations to you and your family!

Just recommending the top rail go to the skirt, not cut off just short as shown, but what do I know…

Well done. I imagine in the “refined” version the figureheads butt will be closer to sitting on the head rails (if that’s the right word, head rails,not butt)😀

On 8/14/2025 at 11:43 AM, chris watton said:

Polybak, (laser etched)

Glad to hear, PE is so “kit-like…”

I was able to mold it to fit once the Elmer’s glue stick was applied. If it doesn’t work, isopropyl alcohol will easily remove it and you can try again. 

On 8/5/2025 at 1:20 AM, James H said:

This kit will have a modern design and not legacy.

Not sure what that means, so are the rudder and stem two halves glued together or a solid piece?

Been waiting for this ever since Caldercraft showed a prototype they never finished years and years ago. Let’s go! 
 

Hoping that’s a spare rudder and stem another something made from two layers?  Those gun carriage sure make use of available space:-)

Limited Edition series 2? 😎

I’d be interested too should things change. Something I could build with my grandson. 

Not sure how I missed the finished model post nearly a year ago. Try belated congratulations on a job so well done. So many fine points about your build, the one I find especially impressive are the splices and seizings in your rope work. Well done!

Well done!

On 7/5/2025 at 3:21 AM, John Murray said:

basswood and limewood being the same and they are different...

I believe it’s the same called limewood in Europe and basswood in the US, certainly similar if nothing else.  It’s suitable for interior parts, but not of quality for planking in my opinion. I’d thin mahogany would be difficult to work with, walnut is very common and what most basic kit builders provide. Not the best look for our model. Maybe it’s worth the cost to have Alaskan Cedar shipped to you. From Chuck’s mill partner

On 7/4/2025 at 8:21 PM, John Murray said:

Thoughts on how to proceed would be appreciated

I had the same gap, I imagine we all did. This will be the alignment of your forward planks, best not to let it go. I simply, and very carefully, sanded the curve of the stem until it matched the frame and rabbet. Think it out where and where not to sand, and it doesn’t take much to get it right. I went slow, repeatedly test fitting.

 So I guess conflicting advice from prior builders, all who were successful with their solution. Have fun😁

Well done Frank, that center belt is indeed a challenge. 

Welcome back

Very nice work, great looking model!

Very impressive paint work, even more impressive is the research and finding of clever techniques to make it happen. 

I’m never sure what’s better, the quality of your build or the depth of your logs. I do agree they are of benefit to us all. Well done as always BE!

You may need to bevel, even up, and/or reduce the scrap wood pieces or the gap might grow wider as you plank further.  You might also be able the replacement the bottom (currently top) counter plank.  While replacing the planks is a lot, there are still ways to fiddle about to close the gap. The moulding strip and frieze have to have some to adhere to. (I hadn’t notice the size of the gap in my earlier comment, sorry).

I think your’re on the right track, no need to change 

The pear is complimentary. I wouldn’t paint it. 

This is a challenging area to get a good clean, tight flow of planks. It’s also a time to look ahead in the instructions, something I always do,to see the final look. The lower counter will be covered with a frieze and moulding over that along the line of planks. The curve, tight and solid fit is the important part.

Nice work, a big task to have the cannon behind you. Fun stuff ahead!