No Idea

Trust me there was a huge bit of luck involved here Greg that a great idea as I just sight down the line with my eye which surprisingly I have found to be quite accurate but this will be better. Here's a question though - I have discovered after my initial happiness that the port side clamp at this point is about 1mm lower than the starboard side. So to scale that is 25mm so nothing major but still a discrepancy. I was thinking about dropping the starboard side slightly lower within the clamp with these 2 beams to pull them level. But even if I do this the waterways will still be slightly lower. So is this something that I need to worry about as on such a large scale as it certainly wont be seen. I've never tried for perfection as I'm just not experienced enough so my thoughts are just leave it but I'll be interested to see what others think.

Just a quick update as I'm a little bit happy with something. So today I made a few main beams which are huge. They are each made from a piece that is 15mm x 7.9mm x 200mm. Sorry I digress - I then fitted the two that I need for the dimensions of the pump well and I thought that I had better check that the build was going the right way. So just like all of the other beams I checked the height at the crown of beams using my height gauge. The beam according the drawings should be dropped into the deck clamps by 2.6mm to be at the correct height. Mine need dropping by 3.0mm!! I am so happy about this as I fitted the clamps ages ago and things have moved on since then. I'll take being 0.4mm out everyday of the week 👍 It may be different at various points of the clamp I'll find out as I go along. I just need to work out how to cut the dovetails in both the beams and clamps but I'll sort it. I need to sit these beams at their final height to build the well. A few of pictures of these beams in place and sorry for my little self indulgence but I'm well happy with this result! Cheers Mark

Hi Tony - Yes mate they are carbon fibre rod. I can get most sizes really easily in the uk and it sands down at the same rate as the wood. I know most builders prefer brass but I'm not overly keen on the shininess of it and also they are hard to sand down too when in wood. Thanks Tobias 👍 Cheers druxey - I was fortunate that the two sides are pretty much identical so once I got one to fit the other just followed as I already had a pattern. They do take time though there's no doubt about it! I find getting the beams to fit exactly harder to fit funnily enough; as you are lining them up on more than one axis and they keep on moving from where you put them 😂

Thanks Jim Thanks Jean Paul Onto the stern sleepers - These are another really easy piece to make but very difficult to get them to sit correctly on the stern. I lost the first set but improved on the second. Here's the sleepers ready to go on. And here they are all fitted which I managed to get quite a tight fit to the hull. Also fitted are the beams for the small deck at the stern which will also have a hatch. This deck is not horizontal with the keel but has a very gentle slope downwards. They were installed in exactly the same way as the forward deck beams. I'm going to make the pump well next but to ensure the correct placement I need to make a couple of the main beams first. It's at this point when you realise what building in 1/24 scale is like as these beams are big pieces of wood. Thanks for all of the encouragement - Mark

Lovely work and I think using the two different types of wood sets of your work even better.

Hi All I've been working on the mast step and what a lovely little piece this is to make. It's like making a miniature piece of furniture due to its many angles and precise joints. I guess it was made that way due to the amount of stresses it must have received from the mast. The step is made of two thickness materials. The outer pieces are 6mm and the inner 5mm. After sanding and milling the parts look like this Here's the profile of the inner pieces which I cut to an angle of 7 degrees. It then has a taper at the bottom so that it sits correctly on the keelson. All assembled with the relevant nails. I used 0.28mm carbon for the first time for the very small nails and I think they look alright. Finally fitted into the hull The next job is to make the stern sleepers - Cheers Mark

Astounding bit of machining there marsalv 👍

I can't comment on your build but I find it so fascinating how you are going about finding the historical information that you need. I look forward to your updates as this a proper school day for me. This is such a lovely ship to build and good luck.

Maury S - you are spot on there mate. To get a completely flat piece of wood it needs to be rotated end to end and on both sides. This removes any cupping from it 👍

Matrim - I've just found your build and I'll be following along too. You have some really good techniques there I think I'll steal them to help me out! Good luck with your build

Hi Tony - Hahn's method of framing removes the historical accuracy of the build as I understand it. He used a stylised method that made the frames seem evenly spaced to the eye which was not how ships were actually built. His method also extended the frame top timbers which became the datum and as such the ship hulls were built upside down. It also means that the builder does not have to make and align all of the individual pieces that constitute tandem frames. His ships are quite simply amazing as is his method - what I was trying to say is that you are using historically accurate drawings by Ancre to build a ship using Hahn's method. I would have no idea (no pun intended) how to even do this and cannot help you on your quest to achieve your goal. Adrian Sorolla shows very clearly how to build the frames as per Ancre's plans and that's the way that I have build my model. My thoughts were that you have put in a lot of time and effort so far......so you could use these skills one of two ways. Either go with what you are building but no one has done this before on this ship as far as I am aware or build it to the plans. If I have upset you with my comments then I apologise as I would not intend to do this to any builder. I meant what I said good luck with your build and I do believe that what you want to do can be achieved - I just don't have the skills to advise you.

Hi Kevin - I had this problem when I bought my table saw and thickness sander. A mate of mine made me some inserts so that my extraction fitted. So when I ordered my sander from Jim I asked if he could modify the extraction port to suit my needs. He did 😀 so when it was delivered it fitted just as the others did........Sorry maybe I should have told you this about 6 months ago! The thickness sander is something else and I use it all of the time. I have discovered though that if you want a really smooth piece without any dips - as it passes through to the sanded side place a lot of pressure with your thumb onto the piece of wood that emerges and continue to feed it through with a push stick. This method gives great results - enjoy your new tool 😁

Hi Tony I think that this is your call mate. The great thing about having an accurately made rising floor and frames that fit into the floor and half floor is that it makes rising them a lot easier. I'm not saying that it's an easy thing to do but it certainly helps with the spacing and placement of the frames. I think that your quest to simplify this process is actually causing you some real issues. I still think that with patience your idea will definitely work - but what about the chocked frames at the stem and stern? That would involve another level of ingenuity and if wrong will affect the relationship between the frames and the transom and hawse timbers. These are just my very limited thoughts and I hope you get it sorted but Gerard didn't make these plans with Hahn in mind. I have no doubt that someone on here will either have a solution or some other ideas to help you. Good luck mate

Hi Del - For some reason I've missed your build until now. Wow mate you have a talent what an absolutely amazing build. That ship of your's is stunning!

Thanks druxey - one of the fantastic things about this monograph is; if you look all of the angles you need to cut they are already drawn for you. I found that they just needed a small adjustment to fit my sometimes wonky build. Thanks captain_hook 👍 I'm really enjoying building this little ship.

Another update from me and I have to say its been very nice making parts instead of planking 🤣 So starting with the very lowest breast hook- This part is not flat but is curved to match the deck that rests upon it. It is also recessed as it receives the first beam of that deck too. This hook is supposed to be recessed for the stem apron as well but I've obviously done something wrong way back when I made the hawse timbers. So instead I opted (was forced) to make it the fit as best that I could. Next was to make and fit the beam that is attached to it Which was then trimmed to shaped - Its worth noting that the beam must stand proud of the hook as the hook is angled down towards the keel. This can be seen in the lower picture. This assembly was then glued in place in the hull at the correct height but more on that later. Then I made the middle breast hook which needed to be scribed in to match the hulls shape which I seem to have sanded a little too much on the port side. This wasn't difficult to do just time consuming to get a decent fit. Once again I could not recess this hook into the stem either. Next was to make the 3 beams that complete the small deck at the bow. These are really easy to make and extremely difficult to fit accurately. Luckily I only wasted one beam. The second beam and middle hook after being installed Now going back to Greg's excellent point about marking out the inside of the hull which I do find quite difficult I thought it best to show how I installed all of the beams and hooks at the correct height. Looking at the drawing and working from the very bottom of the keel as my constant datum you can see that the crown of the beams should be 65mm high. You can also see the small step in beam number one and the angle of the lower hook too. So I use my height gauge but anything that can hold the correct height can be used. It was zero'd on the base board and not the work surface and then set at 65mm. This then allowed me to gently sand away the ends of the beams until they sat in the correct place and at the correct height. If I put a small ruler across all of the beams it is flat so I'm very happy with that. Here's a picture that explains things far better A few pictures of the beams all in place. It's also worth noting that there is a hatch to be fitted between beams 2 and 3 so the distance between them is very important. I was really pleased with my marking out for the cut aways on beam 4 - I don't think I could have got it an closer! Next parts to make are the mast step and the stern sleepers - Thanks for all of your comments and like's - Mark

Wow mate wonderful work 👍

Hi Greg I’m using a digital height gauge that I’ve adapted to reach over to the inside of the hull. There’s a pencil on the end so it makes the marking out much easier. I always use the very bottom of the keel as my datum and literally measure everything from this point. So I zero the height gauge (The tip of the pencil) on the base of the building board and go from there. It seems to give me good results Cheers Mark

Hi mate - yes this was an error through my lack of experience as this is my first POF build. If I was building this ship again I would use your technique and build the keelson after making the axial parts to ensure a good line up. I think it's safe to say I got lucky! It did line up but it could have easily not lined up too. I took that as a fluke but next time I'll build it first. The entire frame must be built as a complete entity or at least that what I have found. The other thing I will never do again is photocopy all of the axial parts. I will buy a second set of plans from Ancre and cut them up instead. I have tried so many companies to copy them exactly and none of them are accurate enough. It would have been cheaper just to get an extra set of plans. We learn so much as we go along but wow what a ride eh! Tony I built my keel twice as my first effort was not quite straight. If I had of used it can you even imagine the corrections that I would be making now. The knock on effect to me just isn't even worth thinking about. Good luck mate and if I can help in any way please just ask

Dave this looks like a decorative covering for the dogs legs (The very outer counter timbers which are shaped to match the lines of the stern). Lovely build BTW

Just a quick update - I was asked quite a lot of questions about the last breast hook that I made and how I got it to fit. So here's my technique and I do this to save wasting time and wood. I use some very thin off cuts and glue the templates on. I then use these to get a pretty good fit as its quick and easy with little wood to remove compared to the actual breast hook. I hold them in place with a tiny drop of PVA glue to check my marking out of the positions and also the level comparative to each other. They come off very easily and these are now my templates for the actual hooks. A couple of pictures are better then a thousand words! I can now get on and make the actual things! Cheers Mark

Thanks chaps for the nice comments - I'm glad this part of the build is complete I did find it quite hard to do. I now understand why some builders only put the thick stuff on and leave it at that. Its a shame that most of it will be covered up by other decks but I know its there and done as best as I could. I'm starting the breast hooks tomorrow so hopefully have an update soon - thanks for all of the encouragement and likes as it does help get through the more difficult parts of the build 👍

Tony you will get there mate and if its any consolation I made most of my frames twice and the axial parts too. Some will think what a waste of wood but it's not. It's a learning process and experience that I'm sure we all go through and probably still are if we are honest. Keep going and trying your best 👍

Hi mate - when I raised my frames I realised just how important accuracy of the frames were. But also the fit onto the rising wood because this determines the accuracy of the final build. Accumulative error is a real problem when raising the frames as if each one is 0.2mm out by the time 32 frames are raised the whole frame is 6.4mm out of kilter. I think that you can do both versions of what you suggest. Either cut them by mill and hand or make the rising wood flat and just simply mill out each side of the frame the same. I'm sure that someone must have made these frames the Hahn way before who can give some advice too.

Christership welcome to the forum That is a very good looking piece of kit but a little too small for my needs. Thanks for sharing though as we need more of these tools in our hobby!