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No Idea

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  1. Hi All Well after a fantastic holiday and a bit of a break I've re-started work on Le Rochefort. Firstly I marked out the whales using a height gauge and then cut the timbers which are quite big. The whale timbers are 10.70mm x 3.30mm so I knew that they would be a bit of a challenge to bend around the bow. The whale is made up of 3 planks which are joined by a scarf joint which I made using the mill as I did with the deck clamp. I have also started on the strake below the whale which is slightly smaller at 10.00mm x 3.30mm. This strake only has butt joints where the planks meet which makes it a little easier too. I've also started the taper up to the stem to try and avoid too much plank crowding later on in the build. My next job is to make the very difficult carved plank that wraps around the stern to the rabbet on the wing transom. I think I've got some idea on how to make this part but I also think its going to take me several attempts to get them right. I'll keep you updated and here's a few pictures below of where I'm at now. Cheers Mark
  2. Crikey Kevin - that is one hell of a lot of nails - you're going to be dreaming about nails by the time you've done that job. A nice bit of patience there though marking them all out - good luck mate 👍
  3. Amazing work - thanks for sharing it must have taken such a long time to work out such a complex construction
  4. If my assumption is correct and I'm sure that others may have a differing opinion I would make and glue the two parts together and then simply blend them together at the joint. I think the most critical aspect is getting the offset correct. Good luck mate 👍
  5. Just my thoughts - but looking at the picture and the drawing I would suspect that the 9" top timber tapers very slightly in the bend as it meets the 8 1/2" futtock. If I were making this part I would make it out of a wider piece and cut the shape into it. I don't know if this will help but thats what I see - cheers Mark
  6. Hi Tony I’ve not actually used this line at all during my construction so far. I have always rightly or wrongly assumed that it is the ships waterline. If you drop Gerard a message who is on this forum I’m sure that he will be able to answer your question. I will have an update on my build pretty soon too. Mark
  7. This is a great thread and I agree that actually you don’t need that many tools. However some power tools do not just speed the job up but make the results more accurate and repeatable. I have Jim’s tools and I cut all of my own material from bigger pieces of wood. They allow me to make strips of wood in any size time and time again. Is it really needed - probably not and I think builders should use what their budget allows. It’s taken years of saving to get this kit but it never stopped me before I had it. Having said that I wish Jim would make a vibration free spindle sander 😊. If I had to buy just one piece of kit I would buy a table saw as it’s so flexible in what it can do.
  8. Lovely work Tobias your ship is looking great. I'm looking forward to your updates.
  9. Wow that is nice 👍 Thanks very much for pointing me in this direction and I'll have a good look at this one. It may be a little bit too big for model ship building but what a lovely tool it is! Hi Bruce - yep these are my go to guys as well. I buy all of my wood from these people and I did not know that they sold tools too. I'll give them a ring in the morning to see if they have anything in stock or any ideas too. Thanks again 👍
  10. Hi All I want to get myself a really nice 4" sliding bevel preferably made completely from metal. I'm struggling to find a really decent one as Richard Kell no longer makes them and Vesper tools in Australia do not take back orders anymore. If anyone knows of a 4" sliding bevel supplier could you please point me in the right direction Cheers Mark
  11. Hi marsalv - so not only did you work out the difficult programming for milling dead eye's; you then made a drive system to put them on the lathe. This my friend is genius level machining and so great to see 😀
  12. Thanks - By the way I think your forum name is great 😀 Thanks Greg and cheers again for pointing me in this direction to sort it out 👍 We've never been to Corfu and its 32 degrees at the moment - we can't wait!
  13. Hi Tobias and thanks for the comment 👍 The laminating is finished and sanded into the correct shape. I've also cut the radius's at the end of the wing transom and I think I've pretty much got away with it. It now all blends nicely together as it should of in the first place and actually it doesn't look as bad as I thought it would. I'm glad that I've now got this sorted as at least the transom is the correct shape now and the planks should lay on them nicely too. My mantra for my next build is "leave some extra wood on until the fairing stage". Its also been like Xmas as I've been stocking up on some Castello - 6 planks that are 13mm thick so that will keep me going for a while. I'm off away now for the next 4 weekends, 3 of which will be on holiday in Corfu 😁 so the build will have to wait for a while but when I get started again on the whale I'll get another update up on here. Cheers Mark
  14. Cooks on gold sell them in the UK that’s where I got mine from. I’m unsure though why you think RPM has anything to do with torque? The motors that Foredom supply are very powerful and I’ve never been able to stall mine. Even at really low speed the power is there and I think mine is an SR.
  15. Hi - I’ve got the foredom drill and although they are expensive it’s probably what you are looking for. It has a foot control so you can go as slow as you like. It also has loads of torque and I cannot compare it to my old dremel. Mark
  16. I've now started the lamination process and now that I've gone back to the drawings I can see that things are not as bad as I thought. My issue is that I squared off the top of the top transom filling piece but the rest is pretty much all ok. I've checked the rabbet dimensions are they are correct at 2.3mm x 2.6mm but the one thing that I never did was to cut the rabbet corner radius into the wing transom. Now it's very often that I get a lucky win but on this occasion I have, as this radius makes things so much better in terms of the transom pieces all lining up. As you will see in the picture the radius goes about 2/3 through the width of the wing transom. The lamination strip I'm using is just 0.5mm Castello and it bends very easily at this thickness and I only need to build up about 3 laminations to get the correct shape. Cheers Mark
  17. Yea something else for me to think about. I do seem to like making things difficult for myself. I think that lamination of very thin strips will probably be my way forward. I would rather that it looked a bit messy but had the correct shape and it’s going to be planked over anyway. I’ll keep you all updated as to how it goes.
  18. Here's another picture which exaggerates the problem somewhat but probably explains it better. I've also attached a picture of how I marked out the line of the top timbers for those who may be interested.
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