No Idea

That is awesome work marsalv - I don't actually know what the small blocks on the bowsprit are for but you have put them on so evenly and neatly. They must have taken ages to align like that.

Wow that is beautiful work 👍

These little planes are great I use mine every time I’m modelling. I put a small drop of thin oil on that piece of cardboard and so far I have no corrosion on mine.

Check out Kevin Kenny's review and set up of the Foredom tool its very good. I love mine as it has so much torque at very low speed. The best on the market but they are also very expensive. I used a Dremel successfully for many years and although they do the same job the Foredom makes it easier with better control.

Tobias that is spot on mate 👍 Not really an update but just a few shots of how things are going. I'm working on the bow and stern at the same time to get things done. As I've discovered planking the inside of a hull takes the same amount of time as planking the outside. So a few pictures of spiled planks, clamps and unfinished fitted planks too! The planks look stepped as the thickness decreases as they go down towards the keel. Things are getting easier as I'm learning new skills everyday. Its coming along nicely but these things take time and a lot of measurements - Cheers Mark

That is beautiful work and looks like a proper mirror image from starboard to port.

😂 I’m making good progress but it’s slow. It’s also getting more enjoyable as I get better at ceiling work. I’ll have an update in few weeks 👍

If you look at Chucks video the point that the plank touches his jig has a larger surface area. This would help spread the forces away from a very small focal area when bending. Using a pin would make the contact point tiny and therefore increase the forces in that tiny area. It’s got to go somewhere so the wood will start to lift instead of bend. l had this problem until I made a better jig to bend the planks on and allowed the plank to be bent with less pressure in a very small area. So try making a jig and also make the hold down the same gap as the plank is thick. Cheers Mark

Again so cleverly thought out using what you have at hand. I know I’ve said it before but your technique here is fantastic. I also like the way it wastes very little wood in the process. I think your finished result is beautiful. I also think that you don’t need to work on your woodworking skills. You’ve got them already 👍

I find this so fascinating as I'm just really getting into the history of ships and I have so many questions. But could someone do me a very simple diagram of why a square tuck would affect the rudder more than a rounded one. I'm sure that once I see a diagram it will all make far more sense to me.

This is a really clever technique and it certainly gives me some hope that I will be able to do this when the time comes on my build. Cheers for sharing BW as I would never have thought of using two pieces as you show so clearly above. The end result looks fantastic.

Some great advice but there is no short cut to getting a super smooth finish. I built Billings Fairmount Alpine using epoxy as a sealer and I too used Halfords Matt primer to see the imperfections. Any imperfections were filled using a fine two pack polyester car filler. It just takes hours of patience which you obviously have. The finish you have achieved is fantastic and a real credit to you. Here’s my effort after probably the same hours that you put in. Looks about the same I would say

That really is lovely work nice one Chris 👍

Hi Sam and welcome to the forum. Thats an easy repair and you have answered your own question. Firstly let the paint already on fully dry and then sand out the marks that you made. As you have an airbrush mask off the areas along the length of the hull that you do want to spray grey. Then just spot spray the area that wants sorting out and your done!

I echo what Mark has said above but I do mine very slightly differently. I mix very fine sawdust that I make with a Dremel sanding drum into the PVA and use as much sawdust as possible. It kind of turns into a very thick putty that I then push into the gap with a very flexible knife. Its exactly the same thing but it just has a greater content of wood which I would guess at 75% wood - 25% PVA. It does however make it quite hard to sand down as its very tough but the results are pretty good.

I've not seen this kit before but it looks very interesting and I like the way the frames are nice and chunky. That will give you plenty to go at when you do start fairing them. Good luck with your build and I'll be following along too.

Hang on I’m English maybe I could end them at the…….oh no maybe not just wishful thinking on my part 😂😂

giampeiroricci - thanks mate 👍 Tonphil1960 - building in 1/4 scale is nice but it also means that you have to manipulate 1/4 scale sections of wood. I’ve found this very difficult at times and sometimes think that the smaller scale may have been a better option. It just throws up challenges that I have to find solutions for such as the plank lamination in the post above.

At last I have an update on my build! Thanks for all of the advice given as getting this right has proven to be quite a challenge for me. Firstly I tried carving a plank and it did not go too well and I find that using this method wastes quite a lot of wood. So in the end I used lamination to get around the tightest bends but I also had to spile the planks too. The first 3 strakes underneath the deck clamp had to be made this way before I could revert to solid wood. This plank was made up of 3 layers to get to the correct thickness of 2.8mm The next two planks were made up of 2 layers of lamination the first being 2.5mm thick and the second 2.8mm Now this is my first attempt at ceiling planking and I soon realised that I had made an error earlier in the build. The first lot of planks that I had placed coming away from the keelson had been tapered too much towards the stern. They did not go far enough up the sternson which meant that with my remaining planks I really had to make up some space between them and the new planking on the transom. I had a choice I could either fit a stealer to bridge the gap or exaggerate the flair of the planks on the transom. I decided on the latter and here's the result. Its been a really good learning curve for me and whilst the planking is hardly uniform it is very tight on the frames and transom. Next time I will look at this planking from a completely different angle and get it far more pleasing to the eye. I now need to replicate my mistakes on the starboard side so that it looks symmetrical but I think this will be ok for me to do. Lastly a couple of pictures hopefully showing the planking thickness decreasing from 3mm to 1.8mm as it moves down the frames and across the transom. Cheers Mark

The attention to detail is mind-blowing and the production of parts is so precise. Keep the updates coming mate 😎

I know that others have said it but - wow that is incredible! If the background was removed from the photo I would say it's the real thing.

Such lovely clean work it looks amazing!

wefalck thats a really nice solution too thanks for sharing mate!

Hi I'll chime in here as I've got one and can probably help. This is what the part looks like when attached to a Proxxon vice - its very small and this is the 6mm version of the tool. This part is designed for the scientific industry for checking accuracy etc. It's strong enough to hold wood securely but I have no experience of machining metal using this part. My thoughts are though that I probably wouldn't do this - I'll just stick to wood. When its closed shut the two mating surfaces are not quite parallel and I solved this by placing 2 - 6mm studs in the holes shown and then adjusted them until the 2 faces were exactly parallel. They are simply held in place with a medium thread locker. This means that I don't have to worry about any adjustment once closed and I haven't taken the vice off of the angle plate since fitting. The 2 lower studs with the slots in secure the vice to the plate. Here's mine attached to the tooling plate on my Sherline mill Its held down by 2 - 6mm bolts that are supplied with the vice. I drilled some extra holes into the tooling plate and tapped them out. These really make switching the vice around very easy. This can easily be fitted to a Proxxon MF70 mill but remember that you already have less head high between the table and cutter so you will loose another 25.50mm between these 2 points. This is not an issue on the Sherline as it has a much taller head height. Renishaw do not keep these parts in stock so if you do order one you will probably have to wait a few weeks for delivery. Its worth giving them a call to see what they can do. I hope this helps - Mark

Thanks all - The issue I'm having is getting the plank bent without it cracking or snapping. I've made this plank several times out of a wider piece of wood and thats not been my issue. All of the above advice is absolutely spot on - I've even tried soaking a piece for an entire week but the bend is so tight at this point it cracked on the bend as well. The plank at this point is 2.8mm thick so its a fair piece of wood to bend and I've made sure that at the bending point the grain is running correctly towards the transom. I guess this is why I've reached the conclusion that this particular plank needs to be carved to shape. I'll keep at it until I get a working solution