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Libertad 1925 by Valeriy V - Scale 1:100 - Spanish Type F Light Cruiser
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Libertad 1925 by Valeriy V - Scale 1:100 - Spanish Type F Light Cruiser
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Libertad 1925 by Valeriy V - Scale 1:100 - Spanish Type F Light Cruiser
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Libertad 1925 by Valeriy V - Scale 1:100 - Spanish Type F Light Cruiser
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Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack by Kenchington - Model Shipways - 1:24
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Fascinating. The 17th century English fashion paice was set is a similar way and, by the end of the 1600's, the two radius stem was also used, although sometimes in a slightly different way. Usually the lower radius ran smoothly to the keel. In other examples there was an angle at the forefoot as your example.
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wefalck reacted to a post in a topic:
Sail feedback request, Mondfeld method
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Sail feedback request, Mondfeld method
druxey replied to travis's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Curious. I've never known real Silkspan to tear like that. It is, in fact, very strong. Are you sure that this was, in fact, SilkSpan? -
Sail feedback request, Mondfeld method
druxey replied to travis's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
You've done a very neat job, but there is basic problem of scale. You mention 1:60, and one can never stitch that finely to be even close to scale, as well as the material is over scale thickness. What youa re doing is also very labor-intensive. Now, if that's the way you want to do it, read no further! A better way, IMHO, is to uses the material called SilkSpan. It is essentially a thin but strong paper product. The overlaps can be easily simulated with acrylic paint applied using a bow pen. The reinforcing edges are glued and rope also applied using white glue or matte acrylic varnish. An example is pictured below at 1:48 scale. Instructions of how to make sails using this technique are available through SeaWatchBooks: https://seawatchbooks.com/products/swan-iv-sail-making-supplement-from-the-revised-and-expanded-edition-by-david-antscherl -
The positions of the cleats look fine, it's just that the fore faces as you move away from top center will dig into the rope and fray it in time. As an example, your rule only touches the upper corner of the nearest cleat in the photo. It should touch all the way across its face as seen in the partial plan. If you are still unsure of what I mean, take a turn of string around the bowsprit as a quasi line. The photo (although a different subject) shows rows of these cleats with varying fore angles to their faces. Hope this helps!
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Nate's PANDORA in 3D
druxey replied to 3DShipWright's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
My point was that, with the higher sill, as the door hinged inward, the lower corner would not hit the deck. Also, beware of modern models' reliability! Try to depend on contemporary sources which are readily accessible through the internet nowadays. -
Nate's PANDORA in 3D
druxey replied to 3DShipWright's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
One assumption in the frame-grabs is that the lower sill of the doorway to the quarter gallery was just above deck level. Looking at contemporary inboard profile plans, the sill was about 12" above the deck. Should the quarter gallery get carried away, it might prevent too much water entering. Form follows function.
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