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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    If you absolutely want to pounce at scale, use watch gears.
  2. druxey
    As far as I know, the boat was not armed. A strong connection is, however, required to hold the two sides of the bow together.
  3. druxey
    If you mean fairing (shaping) the edges , this will only work if the layers or frames are almost in contact with each other. In the case of a model with bulkheads, where they are spaced far apart, you can only fair them after the framework is assembled.
  4. druxey
    The trouble with research is that you find out stuff!
  5. druxey
    Yes, those plates are poorly nailed with large dimples - nay, large dents!
  6. druxey
    Well, I thought I was progressing well with the stub toptimbers. I'd completed the port side when I realized that I'd beveled them the wrong way: instead of the outer surfaces being almost vertical, they flared outward. A session of water (isopropanol would have been too aggressive and loosened planking) followed by 'tooth-pulling' - and teeth grinding! - ensued. I've now begun a second batch of correct toptimbers. They have an almost comma-shaped profile and are tedious to make and fit.
  7. druxey
    The half laps were also dovetailed ones!
  8. druxey
    This question made me smile. For my first 'coppered' model when i was about 16, I used 5 thou copper. As the model scale was 1:96, the coppering looked like cedar shingles! As mentioned by others, just because the actual ship used copper doesn't mean you have to use copper on a model. Very thin paper attached using a glue without water content and painted will look much better. Unless very large scale, forget the nailing pattern. Experiment on scrap before committing to the actual model. To answer the original question, one way to cut thin copper is with a straight edge and sharp blade. Use a hard surface such as a piece of plate glass to cut on. Score the metal and work the piece back and forth along the score using parallel pliers until it comes free.
  9. druxey
    As if model sails aren't enough of a challenge without decorating them!
  10. druxey
    Spent the morning trimming and installing the turned stanchions under the thwarts and making miscellaneous hardware: ringbolts, eyebolts and hooks that are located along the inwale. All the standards above the thwarts have also been shaved down to their final shapes. The photos show how thin the outer planking is! Next up will be the short toptimbers that support the wash strake.
  11. druxey
    Welcome back, Mr. Mott!
  12. druxey
    Maury: The are chemicals specifically for 'antiquing' brass and copper. These create a brown rather than black patina. There are other chemicals that give different color finishes. For example: https://jaxchemical.com/product-category/colorants/
  13. druxey
    Slow and neatly does it! You're off to a good start.
  14. druxey
    Frumiuoser and frumiouser, Dick!
  15. druxey
    Darius: I suspect that the planking would be tapered and possibly in irregular widths. Although Vasa and Mary Rose are not necessarily examples for R.S., look at the deck planking on these contemporary examples of shipwrightry.
  16. druxey
    Um, wish I could take credit for the technique, but I saw this some time ago on MSW: another benefit of belonging to this wonderful forum!
  17. druxey
    Moving on, all the standards (inverted knees) have been added to the thwarts and the model removed from the 'girdle'. As the standards are so small, I've found it easier to install them oversize and then reduce them to final dimension when firmly glued in. You can see some 'as installed' ones and other standards finished. To shape them, I use micro chisels and a custom sandpaper stick. Next are the pillars under the thwarts. To turn such thin pieces, it is necessary to support them. I cut down a piece of brass tube and fixed in in the tailstock so that the stock can revolve freely in it. Notches mark the main dimensions of the baluster so that I can replicate the turning.
  18. druxey
    That set of oars look very good!
  19. druxey
    Nice sketches as well as metalwork!
  20. druxey
    I'm not sure if this company is still in business. I seem to recall other members of MSW having issues with them.
  21. druxey
    Thanks for looking in and the compliments. Moving on, the thwarts are in and the hull now fixed to within an inch of spec'd beam. A little miniature metalwork produced the clasp for the mast. It was fabricated from brass, silver soldered and then chemically darkened rather than blackened. I felt black would have been a little too much contrast to the wood color.
  22. druxey
    Coming along nicely, Bob. Some filler is inevitable, so don't sweat over a less than perfect planking job. Each model you build will improve your skills with the experience that you gain.
  23. druxey
    'Rotten to the core', Bob!
  24. druxey
    Harris cut is a straight diagonal cut for joining two pieces end on. The false keel it the usual application for this joint. Cyphered joints are longitudinal half- joints, edge on. See and read: https://books.google.com/books?id=TWsmw-QqvmAC
  25. druxey
    The stern sheets have been made and installed. These were made in two halves to make fitting them easier. The scores for the frames were under-beveled considerably to fit. There will be small turned pillars under the thwarts. Six will need to be made.

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