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Everything posted by druxey
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Very nicely done, Paul. I take it that the tornado missed you?
- 274 replies
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- Cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
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I wonder whether this was for naval use at all. Imagine a heavy barrel and one person trying to maneuver it on a pitching deck. Also, I doubt any naval wheel or truck would be metal shod as the deck would get worn. I'd say is was used on land, perhaps on a fort or redoubt. Was it used simply to move ordnance?
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
druxey replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Nice clean work. Don't forget the taper of the knee of the head! -
boom rigging on a ship's launch boat
druxey replied to Peanut6's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Yet another possibility(!) is that there was no tiller, but a yoke and two lines leading forward instead. -
A tiny gouge, aka hypodermic needle, suitable ground and sharpened does the trick.
- 607 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Oh, Tom, if only you could see my hands. They are wrecked from over 40 years of arthritis and I'm not sure how much longer I can work at the level I have in the past. I'm not looking for pity here. It's to encourage those who aren't hand-icapped (another wretched pun!) that, with practice, you can probably do better than me.
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Looks good to me - what mistake in wood choice?- 475 replies
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White glue with water content will cause a very thin plank to curl. The solution is to moisten the upper side of the plank first, then it won't do that. I suspect contact cement was recommended by the kit manufacturer because s there is only solvent (and nasty stuff at that) in it.
- 109 replies
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- Finished
- Artesania Latina
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I must say that I'm with you, Terry, having first wrestled this exact problem (manually drafted!) back about 1969. I rapidly came to the conclusion of 'one round up fits all' - at least in 1:48 scale. The trick was to start, as stated before, using the sheer at the side, not creating one first the centerline. 'Nuffsaid!
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Nice job on the pintles and gudgeons, and the bollard timbers look much improved! As the position of the upper pintle strap is about where a spectacle plate would be, I suspect that there was simply an eyebolt through the tip of the strap on each side for preventer chains. This is just a conjecture, though.
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Oxy/Butane Micro Torch Kit
druxey replied to Boccherini's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
And remember to turn on the gases in the correct sequence when igniting! -
Yes, Tony, there is just enough information on the drawing you show to reconstruct body plan (waterlines, if you need them) and proof diagonals to see if everything is fair. If you know frame spacing, you could even derive all the frame drawings. The buttock line help define the rapidly changing form of the hull at the extreme aft end
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In wooden ships of the 18th century, the downward curve of a deck at the bow (the camber!) was related to the position of the hawse holes. The primary reason was that if the hawse holes were to come in a deck lower, freeboard would be insufficient and present a hazard. If the holes were high enough to come in at the deck above they would interfere with the headwork. The compromise was to locate the holes 'just right' and lower the forward end of the deck so that it came just below the level of the holes. The bonus was the drainage. Some ships had sloping hawse chutes instead to improve headroom for part of the deck below.
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