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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. I've never seen a pantograph as sophisticated as the one above. A beautiful bit of kit.
  2. Sweet! Too bad part of the railing is hidden below deck.
  3. I find flexible wood sanding sticks with a small handle helpful for inner fairing, other than at the extreme ends of the hull. Starting to look good inside, Stuglo!
  4. Yeah, it's called 'covid brain'. Either that or advancing years.... In my case, I prefer the first explanation. Nice to see you back, on the job, Clare!
  5. I pulled out some of the 'fag ends' of the rule blanks that Rabone sent me. The 'shoulders' were already milled for the ferrules. After over 60 years, the wood (unvarnished) is still quite pale as compared to true buxus boxwood.
  6. A pantograph is a rather difficult tool to use in practice. You need to have an extremely steady hand on the tracing point, sufficient weight on the pencil point for it to mark properly and a solid mounting on your drafting table. It was useful, I suppose, in the days before scanners and digital enlargement, but I'd scan and (in your case) reduce and print out what you need.
  7. I agree with Allan on the slightly decorative upper end of the backing piece.
  8. To Bob Cleek: I have never destroyed a real vintage or antique boxwood rule! I still have my father's Stanley 2' 0" folding rule, complete with level, as well as a set of scale rules similar to the ones you show in post #8. So, rest easy!
  9. When i was very young, I wrote to Rabone and asked for any rejects from them for my models. Not only did the kid get an answer, the man at the company actually sent me a complimentary package of blanks! They were, looking back, definitely Castello. boxwood. It's lovely to work, except the odd piece can be brittle, so don't turn down using it.
  10. Rees is, essentially, Steel in compact form, but without tables of scantlings. It has all the fold-out plans at 1:96 instead of 1:48, and instructions for lofting and building.
  11. I'm sorry to read of the damage to your model. For important and delicate models, the only reliable way to ship them is to use a professional art, museum and antique moving company. It is expensive, but far safer. Over many years, I've only ever had one model damaged. Insurance covered not only the cost of repair, but my travel and accommodation as well. The company I dealt with was professional and prompt in responding.
  12. Many old rulers were made of 'Bermuda boxwood', aka Castello, not European boxwood, buxus. It's very good quality wood, but creamier in color than true boxwood.
  13. Usually they were black to match the forecastle timberheads and planksheer rail. However, you are master shipwright here.....
  14. Part of the trick with metal and files is running your Dremel as slowly as possible. Also, the 'cut' of the file is another factor. Don't use a cut #6!
  15. So, a George Daniels fan as well? Wish I could afford one! Enjoy the prep work, Michael.
  16. I believe that a red ensign would (pre-Union) have been flown.
  17. I've read that one use for these was defensive. If you look at some of the bulkheads on models of these 17th century ships, there were also roundhouse-like projections with loop-holes in them, allowing both protection and a wider field of fire. There are several good examples of this type of bulkhead in the Kriegstein book. So, I'd say your laterally hinged port-in-door arrangement is also defensive.
  18. The Navy did not 'burn' a fireship, they 'expended' it: a much more refined method!
  19. ClipperFan: I'm comparing Vladimir's profile of her headwork (post #662) to the almost profile photo of her figure that I worked from.
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