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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Just catching up with your wrk. Terrific attention to detail!
  2. I wonder whether this was for naval use at all. Imagine a heavy barrel and one person trying to maneuver it on a pitching deck. Also, I doubt any naval wheel or truck would be metal shod as the deck would get worn. I'd say is was used on land, perhaps on a fort or redoubt. Was it used simply to move ordnance?
  3. Nice clean work. Don't forget the taper of the knee of the head!
  4. That was a factoid that I didn't know! Thanks, John.
  5. Yet another possibility(!) is that there was no tiller, but a yoke and two lines leading forward instead.
  6. Oh, Tom, if only you could see my hands. They are wrecked from over 40 years of arthritis and I'm not sure how much longer I can work at the level I have in the past. I'm not looking for pity here. It's to encourage those who aren't hand-icapped (another wretched pun!) that, with practice, you can probably do better than me.
  7. Looks good to me - what mistake in wood choice?
  8. White glue with water content will cause a very thin plank to curl. The solution is to moisten the upper side of the plank first, then it won't do that. I suspect contact cement was recommended by the kit manufacturer because s there is only solvent (and nasty stuff at that) in it.
  9. I must say that I'm with you, Terry, having first wrestled this exact problem (manually drafted!) back about 1969. I rapidly came to the conclusion of 'one round up fits all' - at least in 1:48 scale. The trick was to start, as stated before, using the sheer at the side, not creating one first the centerline. 'Nuffsaid!
  10. Nice job on the pintles and gudgeons, and the bollard timbers look much improved! As the position of the upper pintle strap is about where a spectacle plate would be, I suspect that there was simply an eyebolt through the tip of the strap on each side for preventer chains. This is just a conjecture, though.
  11. And remember to turn on the gases in the correct sequence when igniting!
  12. I look at photos of his work and ask myself, "How on earth did he manage to do that?!" It is sublime. (pun intended!)
  13. Yes, lofting frames is a bit of an endurance test, but very satisfying once you start assembling a framed hull!
  14. Yes, Tony, there is just enough information on the drawing you show to reconstruct body plan (waterlines, if you need them) and proof diagonals to see if everything is fair. If you know frame spacing, you could even derive all the frame drawings. The buttock line help define the rapidly changing form of the hull at the extreme aft end
  15. Another assist in arriving at a fair hull are using diagonals. (These are the angled 'waterlines', if you like.)
  16. In wooden ships of the 18th century, the downward curve of a deck at the bow (the camber!) was related to the position of the hawse holes. The primary reason was that if the hawse holes were to come in a deck lower, freeboard would be insufficient and present a hazard. If the holes were high enough to come in at the deck above they would interfere with the headwork. The compromise was to locate the holes 'just right' and lower the forward end of the deck so that it came just below the level of the holes. The bonus was the drainage. Some ships had sloping hawse chutes instead to improve headroom for part of the deck below.
  17. As an extension of this thread to carving in general, I've just come across the story of two master carvers, past and present: https://spitalfieldslife.com/2021/07/12/the-quest-for-grinling-gibbons/#comments Studying the photos, it's a lesson in how to carve brilliantly. Something to aspire to!
  18. If one begins with a sheer line along the crown (centerline) of the beams, there will be unfairness at the ship's side with constant round up as described above. I do not think that this is true if one begins with a fair sheer line at the ship's side. Any comments. anyone?
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