druxey

Makes more sense to have a protective metal sheet where swivels mount, rather than under deadeye straps where the forces up and down are balanced out.

Pretty tricky at that scale! What happened to the aft cross-piece, though?

I understand that conserving the wreck will take years.

My understanding is that plate along the side to prevent wear was a single strip, not separate plates. Also, it was on the inner timber with square holes for swivel guns, not the outer strip slotted for the shroud plates. (See Steel, Plate 5. Volume I, Rigging and Seamanship.)

Excellent find! This will help us understand early transitional building techniques better. Thanks for posting.

The method that works for me is to make the cutter profile in a softened piece of hacksaw blade. As you discovered, you can't do undercuts, so any angle on the molding needs to be shaped afterwards, but is usually not necessary except for entry steps. I pre-cut strips the width and maximum depth plus a whisker of the molding to be cut. I then either rubber cement (larger strips) or white glue (smaller ones) to a flat, hard surface. This will act as the depth stop. Cut until the cutter rides along the base surface and you have a nice, even molding. The trick is not to use too much downward pressure on each pass. Many light cuts are better and there is less chance of the cutter digging in. Your method is far more sophisticated!

I doubt if a boat was on board. Hoisting it in and out would be problematic with only one yard to suspend anything from! If anything, it would be towed.

Usually scarph lengths were three times the width of the plank. Generally speaking, the direction was such that the wood that planks (or framing elements) were being cut from were as long as possible with minimum waste. So, on a curved piece, the tip of the scarph would usually be to the concave side.

Looking very nice indeed, Matiz!

A fresh eye in the morning helps!

Your theory that the eyebolts were for hoisting the capstan for repair or maintenance seems a reasonable one.

Stretch the SilkSpan on a frame and paint it with dilute acrylic first. The number of coats will control the degree of transparency or opacity.

Yes, the direction one threads line through a block makes a difference, but that's all part of the learning curve!

I'm not too familiar with construction of that era. Were the through beams really above deck level? Seem as if this would impede movement on deck and make it a hurdle race if one was in a hurry!

Very neat and workmanlike!

This is an excellent way to ease into scratch building, Tom. You have the necessary tools already, so you are off to a flying start.

I think, for model-making purposes, a straight taper is more practical. It is close enough and no-one can see any difference!

I've had success by drilling one central hole and then opening it out with the square file.

Hmm. Good question. The easy answer is 'tradition'. I assume you are referring to historical English ships. The early 'Navy Board' models of the later 1600's were painted in this style, also reflected in paintings of the period. This was apparently standard on ships of the day. 'Bright' wood was originally oiled, later painted ochre, to protect it. Deck furniture, bulwarks, etc, were red ochre. Again, this was for protection and ochre (earth) colors were inexpensive. The idea that would hide blood was, we now think, simply coincidental. Later models were not elaborately framed, and solid hull models showed a white or cream underwater body. This replicated 'white stuff', tallow and sulphur based, to deter underwater marine organisms and growth. The black rails and hatch coamings were painted black, I believe, not only as charcoal black was cheap, but because it stood out in sharp contrast to the decks for higher visibility at night as a safety measure. The black wales were not painted black, but coated with pitch for protection. Gold decorative carving is more controversial. Thinking today is that the carved work was picked out in yellow and varnished. Only models were gilded. Of course, there were exceptions for 'prestige' vessels where decorative work was gilded, sometimes with an ultramarine blue background (ultramarine being a very expensive pigment) or a greenish blue called smalt; a much less expensive substitute.

An interesting beginning, Steven!

It certainly would be a bit easier to hook blocks under the cap earlier, but they are very likely to fall off and get lost! BTW, the cleats for the slings will be a pain as you have them. Leave the top of the slots open until after the sling is installed. If the cap is a decent fit it won't need glue - just like the real thing!

That's very neat work on the grille at such small size. Nice idea for a non-skid surface as well!

Generally iron-shod wheels were used on land, not as sea; think forts.

Very nicely done, Paul. I take it that the tornado missed you?

Just catching up with your wrk. Terrific attention to detail!