druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Those chutes in your photo seem to be either side of the second head timber, not forward of the third (foremost) one. And yes, the headwork is in the line of 'drop'. However, at sea I'm sure this was washed clean! In harbour it would be a different story.... -
You make a number of very good observations in your carving tutorial, Marc. You are absolutely correct in that you can't make something unless you can draw it (or have a drawing of it). Two small points one might add: one, directional light to cast shadows and show highlights while carving. Two, make a maquette in modeling clay to work out the piece in 3D first.
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I wondered for a moment what the 'Pacmen' were for! Nice progress.
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Your secret is safe with us - for a price! It is interesting to see the relationship between all the components making up the headwork. May I suggest that there is no seat of ease that far forward? Any gratings there rise steeply with main rail. There would be one as you have it (or even twinned ones) ahead of the middle head timber and another, as you've drawn it, in the aft outer corner between the roundhouse and main rail. I've even seen a two level two-holer in the corner like stadium seating!
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You have to please yourself, Gerard, but know what it is (or isn't) that you are building. Enjoy the experience!
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Not to pour cold water on your project, but Davis' Lexington is a fiction - a pretty one, but still a fiction. Davis' book entranced me as an 11-year old when I found a copy in my local library. I renewed the book over and over at the time. I wanted to build a framed model too! Many years later, I did, but not of Lexington. A few years back Dr. Clay Feldman did a study of what he thought Lexington really looked like. His articles appeared in The Nautical Research Journal. I can't quote the date, but someone like Kurt Van Dahm would know.
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Have you tried using SilkSpan paper? I've not tried limp sails, but furled ones worked out well, as the material can be re-wetted many times without tearing to be shaped as needed.
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Beautifully executed, Johann. Very impressive work indeed.
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Jim - be kind. Don't send him down that rabbit hole!
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That looks pretty nice now, Mark.
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Some figures were 9' 0" to 11' 0" high. Distinctly larger than life- size. Those on sixth rates were about life size. Tip the shield away a bit around to port and it will be perfect!
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Your version of the spear looks good. The original figure's spear would certainly have been of metal and removable. I suspect it was painted to protect it from corrosion. I might suggest the shield be ported (carried by its straps on her left arm) rather than resting in front of her. It wouldn't be much protective help like that if she were armed and going into battle! The gorgon's head would feature on this shield, as Bellona assisted in the killing of her. The chicken or rooster might be, as suggested, used for augury by reading of its entrails and sacrifice, or be perhaps a symbol of aggression (think fighting cocks). Great discussion above, too many posts to click all for 'likes'!
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Well, I can see how much wood you'll save at that scale - assuming you don't have to re-make too many pieces! Looks like an excellent result so far, Giampiero.
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You have become quite the master mason! Love the new gateway.
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Velkommen indeed, Gaffrig!
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Good questions and answers!
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Welcome! What you wrote about your experience so far is exactly what all of us have gone through/are going through. You will have plenty of sympathy and advice if you need it here. For a first attempt, you've done very well. Your model looks like most folks' third or fourth!
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I hope your grandson is watching and learning your techniques. Make sure he starts a log on MSW as well! We'll be watching.I 'm happy to read that he will carry the torch on for you.
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A good book on building model open boats will also show you how to do this. I find a rolling bevel is easier to do at small scale, especially if the planks are only 1/64" thick! The clinker boat at the back is 4" long.
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I missed 'Nike' completely! Thanks for pointing it out. Early promotion, not for a shoe in this case, but a runner!
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Looks like an early version of what was called a 'shoe block' in the 18th century. In that case, the two sheaves were set at right angles to each other. Think two single blocks joined end to end at right angles.
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You might be interested to know I found a copy some years ago of The Practical Shipbuilder of 1839. It was reprinted in limited facsimile edition in 1940 by Richard McKay. Inside the front cover is glued a sliver of wood about 1" square and about 1/16" thick, labelled in pen: Piece of the Ways Donald McKay's Shipyard East Boston - 1845 - 1875 The book is dedicated and signed by Richard McKay. There are seven fold-out plates of representatire hull forms of a sloop, brig, etc, up to a large ship.
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