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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. I've never seen a tutorial on this subject, so it's an interesting question. Some pointers: You need an adequate number of points plotted first. Fit a curve through the first three points and try to visualize how the line will extend to meet the next point or two. Fit a curve to the previous two points on the curve and the next point (or two). Continue through to the other end of the series of points and see if further smoothing is required. With some practice, this shouldn't be necessary.
  2. Congratulations on that finishing touch and completion of your model, Frank. An outstanding piece of work!
  3. You - and we - know the pins are correct beneath those belayed lines! Lovely pictures, Ed. Particularly the stern quarter shot (second one down).
  4. Ooh! Nice, Jim. For owners of the standard table, can this top be retrofitted?
  5. My head hurts from thinking about your level of OCD, Mark! I think, as long as you don't exceed any maximum quoted block size you should be fine. Think of it this way: Ship's carpenter: We need an 18" double aloft immediately. Bosun: I've got a 16" handy. Should do, eh? S.C. Yup. Cap'n'll never notice. B: Not up there, he won't. S.C. (Laughs.) And neither will Mark! (More raucous laughter.)
  6. If I may butt in - just scanning through the last number of posts - the 'angels' are not actually angels! They are representations of Fame blowing their trumpets. Much of this Rococo imagery has Classical allusions, such as the men with fish-tails blowing conch shells: these are Tritons, sons of Neptune, God of the Seas.
  7. Superb joinery! The rest of us are packing up and going home now....
  8. The other objection to the printed version would be the black lines between the colors.
  9. If steel wool, I hope you run a magnet over the surface between coats!
  10. I agree, more or less, with your calculations (post #1267). And I agree that the proportionality is not in agreement with the tables on pages 31 et seq. Is it possible that Steel lifted the proportions from an earlier work and the tabular matter from the then current specifications? I do note that over the years scantlings, etc, tended to get beefed up. However, in defence, there is the caveat in the last line on your quotation in The Practice of Block-making that there could be variance from these proportions!
  11. She will probably float all right, but not necessarily in stable orientation A.... She may be an UIC or Unintended Inverted Clog.
  12. If the smoke is from cigarettes, it should be soluble in water. Dampened cotton buds will work.
  13. My objection to French polish using shellac is its sensitivity to moisture. We've all seen rings left on beautiful table surfaces by condensation from a cold drink!
  14. Frank, I'm disappointed that you didn't imitate the prototype's 'splices' with black electrical tape! Seriously, that is beautiful work.
  15. That last one took a moment to sink in, so to speak, Peveka!
  16. Wot about Hallux Varum, then? What happened to her? Was she the captain's Achilles' heel?
  17. Nice, but isn't the captain a little down at heel?
  18. There are always parts on eBay, including chucks. Just search under 'Proxxon DB250'.
  19. Pumice on a paint or varnish finish 'breaks' the surface and dulls it to a satin sheen. Following this with rottenstone will give a somewhat higher sheen. If painting the wales of my models (rather than staining) I use both compounds. I take a piece of felt, wet it, then pick up the powder on it and rub the surface with a circular motion. A damp paper towel removes residual powder and burnishes the finish.
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