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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Ah, the memories! Overwound elastic band-driven propellors in Keil Kraft balsa model aircraft. One reason I switched to boats and ships early in life!
  2. That's the good thing about poor castings - no waste! Back into the melting pot they go. That is a graphic demonstration of the use of talc, BTW. I think that the stiffer Hydrostone mix would probably be OK. I usually dry my casts in a warming oven. That drives off the moisture more quickly than simple air-drying. Make sure that it is only just warm, not hot!
  3. I suspect that an expert builder like Michael will use fillers, Dan.
  4. If tapping on a lathe, surely turning by hand and not under power!
  5. Actually, miniature left-hand taps and dies are available - if you are prepared to pay the price!
  6. I think that you have done a fine job there, Kortes!
  7. Love the 'same angle' photos of the ship and comparison to the model, Dan.
  8. Interesting and tricky technique! Thank you for sharing this, Kortes.
  9. Great come-back, Carl! Thank you. But, we digress....
  10. Usually on merchant craft there were no limber boards or channels above the floors. The drainage channel consisted of notches in the floors on their undersides, next to the garboard. Water flowed along under the frames, along the garboards, to the lowest point in the ship. Bilge water was then removed by the pumps.
  11. That flower pot seems to be 'clogged' up with earth! Sorry, I couldn't help that.
  12. Laminated wood need an odd number of layers (3, 5, 7, etc.), each layer with grain at right angles to the next. Or - well, you've already discovered the result! A simplified frame structure such as shown above will work. It's a bit wasteful of wood, though. Do you have any way of modifying and controlling the humidity in the home? Where I live we need a humidifier in winter and A/C in the summer.
  13. Nice, Kurt, if you can make functional scale turnbuckles!
  14. How disappointing! My first suspicion would be that the wood was improperly dried or poorly seasoned. Either that, and/or the log the wood was not quarter cut. In my own experience, wood will move where it wants to. You could try the remedy suggested above, but this may prove to only be a temporary solution. In 'real' boats, wood grain more or less follows the contour of the frame which is built in sections. There are no cross-grained areas. This gives maximum strength, as well as minimizes the problem of warpage. Perhaps you might want to rethink how you are going to construct your model.
  15. That's a very useful 'how to', Frank. Steel wire is a beast to work with!
  16. Lovely work with the brass fittings! Had you considered rolled paper for mast bands, then painting them? Walnut is certainly unsuitable for the job.
  17. Well, Bob is almost correct; but once you lick the cotton swab, you don't put it back in your mouth again! Or, if you do, you will only do it once.... I would only add that if you take the time and trouble to restore the model, put them in cases; or they will simply get dusty and damaged again.
  18. Perhaps we can advise you better if you can post some photos of their condition to begin with.
  19. You wrote: " I needed to walk away and shake my head clear a few times, review a number of books and re-read passages many times. This is the kind of stuff that cranks me up and gets me jumping for more! Yes I really enjoyed it that much." Oh, you've got it bad, Alan!
  20. Barque? Schooner? Why not a Scuaque (as in The Hunting of the Snark)?
  21. I think what you are seeing is the edge of the bearding back or bevel that allows the rudder to turn freely. It is not a separate part.
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