druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Thought: what would happen if you swung the light source around in a circle while exposing the material? Might that minimize the spreading rays effect? -
Or perhaps you were a mermaid.... Lovely work as ever.
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Looking good, cathead. (The model, not so much the snow!)
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- sidewheeler
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Nice clean work, Maury. However, to my eye, in the first photo the garboard twist is a bit 'off' over the 3rd to 6th frame, counting from aft. More fairing needed there, perhaps? Feel free to ignore my unwanted comment!
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There is a difference in appearance, depending in which direction the rope is served. Serve in the opposite direction to the lay of the rope. This is particularly noticeable in larger rope sizes. The other solution is to worm larger rope before serving to give a more even surface (just like in full size practice).
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Yellow or red light? I don't know the answer to that, other than those are the longer wavelengths of the color spectrum, whereas violet is the short wavelength end. I imagine a very low wattage of either would be O.K.
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Well, at least your weather isn't too cold, Mark! It's currently 21F in Niagara and falling....
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The issue with a bulb close to the surface means that light rays are spreading rather than parallel. The more off-axis parts of the image are, the more any distortion. Surely you see the sun occasionally in Montana? Reminds me of the Noel Coward song, "Mad dogs and modellers go out in the mid-day sun." Sorry, Noel!
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I thought one could expose the photoresist with sunlight. I don't think one gets much UV from an incandescent bulb!
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Those will complement the model beautifully.
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Just use a smear of epoxy and a bit of Magic tape to secure it. The tape lets you see that the part hasn't shifted before the epoxy sets!
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1) No, they were simple poles reused for many launchings. 2) Look at contemporary paintings or models of launchings/with launch flags. You can estimate sizes from these. 3) I believe that plugs with suitable sized holes for the staffs were used. The bow staff was mounted through an eyebolt in the back of the hair bracket. See the following examples, for instance: http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/15235.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66473.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/12537.html
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No need to sweat the cyphers on to the masters, Greg: epoxy would do, as mold making does not normally involve heat using room temperature vulcanizing materials.
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Quite the reconstruction effort, Steven! I hadn't realized that the model was quite so small.
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A great 'save! Look after those skilled hands now.
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Superb joinery, as usual!
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Miniature Russian carving tools
druxey replied to druxey's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Simple is good, Allan. I think the trick is to strop/hone frequently to avoid resharpening too often. If one does need to sharpen, a guide block is a good idea. One still needs a delicate touch when tuning up miniature gouges. -
So far, so very good!
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I can echo the other responses above! A really useful pin chuck is the old Eclipse 160, which comes with three collets. I have two, one dedicated for the mill, the other as a hand-held chuck. ebay is one source for these useful items.
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