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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    The largest results look massively oversparred! I suspect about half-way between the two extremes the truth may lie.
  2. druxey
    Taper or angle?
  3. druxey
    I'm now a little confused. The 'normal' way mast length is measured is inclusive of the head. The length of head is then marked, down from the top of the mast. However, the table you show states that the measurement is 'heel to hounds', so you need to add the length of the head to that. Not knowing the extreme breadth you are working from, I can't say whether you arriving correctly at 86' 0" or 78' 6"!
  4. druxey
    Um, you never mentioned adding retarder before....
  5. druxey
    Usually the mast length is specified as overall length. This is from step above the keel to the top of the tenon for its cap. The hounds, however, are at point 'C' on your example. Re-drawn plans (as above) or reconstructed plans can be misleading, though.
  6. druxey
    Huge differences! Let's take some of them: Price: boxwood is far more expensive. Hardness: basswood is soft and tends to be fuzzy when carved, boxwood is hard and takes crisp and tiny details Color: Basswood is pale in color, boxwood is a warm yellow. Note: In the U.K. limewood is more easily found. While similar to basswood, it is a little harder and carves far better.
  7. druxey
    A dust jacket would be more appropriate, The Learner.
  8. druxey
    Well done, Maury. I hope that you hoisted a glass!
  9. druxey
    Very impressive work! Thanks for posting these. I don't think it's bending forum rules at all: there's a boat in the diorama, isn't there?
  10. druxey
    Nice going, Ben. Don't leave that tape on for too long, though!
  11. druxey
    Nor drilling that hole was a very close call, Keith! Whew! Current wife? Are you thinking of changing the model and year??
  12. druxey
    Ya pays for what you gets (or don't get!).
  13. druxey
    What material are you using for the sails?
  14. druxey
    One can use solvent based paints and varnishes over water based ones, but not the other way around. Perhaps that is why you have the adhesion issue.
  15. druxey
    Some days are like that. Tomorrow is a fresh one....
  16. druxey
    Pins on a board for a simple jig to keep the distance between rings consistent? That is fine work, in both senses of the word!
  17. druxey
    Never say never, Mark....
  18. druxey
    Some bamboo skewers do not have straight grain or are too soft to draw through. I've ended up with more scrap than treenails. Actually, garden bamboo is generally superior. Try using parallel pliers to grip the material as you pull it through. There will be less crushing of the ends.
  19. druxey
    Mark brings up a good point: a 'Six foote Skarfe' means that the adjacent timbers are in contact with each others' sides for a minimum of six feet, as opposed to a scarf joint, where two timbers are joined end to end.
  20. druxey
    Lovely end-result, Mark.
  21. druxey
    Sounds like you are a victim of your own success. It's good to know that folk want to ask questions and engage you in conversation. Potentially there could be a new ship modeler or two as a result....
  22. druxey
    The older set is the lower one, judging by its style. The upper set, being complete, is the nicer. With light surface corrosion of the steel, try a little penetrating oil on a Q-tip first. If that fails to move it, light buffing using Scotch-Brite radial bristle discs in a rotary tool at slow speed will work. I'd start with 400-grit and move into finer grades from there.
  23. druxey
    A cheap way to keep Sparex heated safely is one of those little gismos that keep your mug of coffee warm. Hint: don't try to sip hot Sparex!
  24. druxey
    I assumed irregular curves, Roger, but for regular ones a spline or flexible curve will certainly do the job.
  25. druxey
    Nice!

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