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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Sorry to read how underworked and indolent you were this summer, Rob. Hopefully you can focus on GR again this Fall.
  2. Brilliant! Congratulations, Marsalv.
  3. Welcome and bienvenue! I'm sure there are folk here who can advise you well on earlier North European shipbuilding.
  4. I only use the scalpel for fine, light work. For heavier cuts, I use a chisel or gouge.
  5. She looks terrific, Mark! All the best for Sunday's unveiling.
  6. I can't speak for this specific drawing, but a typical cutter arrangement had a locker on on side and a seat of ease on the other.
  7. If you have sufficient waterlines, it's possible to reconstruct a body plan.
  8. Thank you for this continuing master class, Ed!
  9. Meanwhile we will wait, all agog! Again, congratulations on a fine Swan model!
  10. Wouldn't the planking be in more random widths? No sawmills back then, as far as I know. Look at photos of Mary Rose's deck to see what I mean.
  11. Indeed: cotton buds, water or saliva and a ton of patience! Roll, don't scrub the tip. Have fun, Griptite (Thynne?)
  12. Well done on the figure, Toni! All your model needs now is a nice base and case.
  13. Chuck: you've correctly guessed who gifted me with that handle! Thanks again, Toni!
  14. Remember to run proof diagonals when you've done, to prove that your lines are all fair. Any wobbles in the lines will quickly act as tell-tales.
  15. Would it not be depend on the size of the links and their ability to be turned over the wheel without too much mechanical disadvantage? An 18th century wheel was 24" in diameter, the links 7" between pivot points and the crank throw was about 15". However, several men at a time turned the cranks.
  16. Welcome aboard!
  17. I was gifted a Bard Parker style handle some years ago that has a lovely balance. Google: Bard Parker 371070 Scalpel Handle Size 7
  18. It depends on the definition of 'length'. It could be length on the upper deck, length on the keel, length overall, etc. One needs to know the definition of the length quoted.
  19. So much depends on personal taste. Many model-makers (myself included) use Castello boxwood, aka lemonwood or lancewood. It is creamy yellow ochre in color, has very tight grain and, if well seasoned, does not warp. Also, if you are modeling a 1770's era ship, sections of the masts and spars are square or octagonal. It is much easier to cut and shape them than to turn them. That was the was it was done in the old days as there weren't lathes that long!
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