druxey

Two more cents' worth: In a contemporary model of a hoy, there is no bobstay. However, a block was hooked in the same position as your longboat sheave for the jib traveller outhaul line. Might I suggest that what you see on the plan of c1800 is similar, but for the jibstay?

It would make much more sense to add them now. This will help stabilize and solidify the framing so far.

But it's a fabulous standard to aim for, John!

If the edge is sharp, a 15 degree angle should be sufficient. As mentioned, many light strokes are far more effective then pressing down. If you do that the tool will either chatter or dig in. Also. be aware of grain direction: sometimes pushing the tool rather than pulling is more effective.

I happened across mention of the offset centerboard in my reading last night. The author stated that the mainmast and step were offset to the opposite side to balance things up, or the boat would be better on one tack than the other.

Would the original masts and spars have been assembled in serial fashion over a mandrel to back up the rivets?

Leaf, whether gold, silver or copper, is incredibly thin. It will show every tiny flaw underneath the surface it is applied to. It is also very tricky to handle. Read any instructional on gilding (gold leafing) and you will see that it requires a lot of practice and skill to apply successfully.

In the case shown above, it's an off-centerboard! Usually the keel widens and the board passes through it centrally.

Oh, sorry: I thought it was the larger saw, which has a similar fence design. But if you can live with the present tolerance, that's OK as well.

You could always make your own, you know....

I bought this saw before the Byrnes' saw came on the market. The original fence is problematic. However, fitted with an Accurizer II fence, the problem is solved.

Not ugly, Javier; let us call her 'idiosyncratic'. And it's a very nice model indeed! Well done.

Thank you, Roger. This book fills a void, it seems.

Keep the humidity up in the workshop, please!

A very instructive series on metal rigging work! Thank you for sharing your techniques, Frank.

Rather than packing tape, try 3M Magic tape. It is slightly frosted and takes pencil well. Even better is the 'temporary' version with re-positionable adhesive.

Amazing joinery skills! I get a smile on my face every time I look at your progress photos, Amalio.

Congratulations on completing a long and painstaking restoration, Michael! You've done a beautiful job on Albertic. I can only hope that your client is truly appreciative of the craftsmanship that has gone into the model.

P.S. In the second photo (starboard companionway grating), is that bilge keel slightly loose?

Looking great!

Ah, thanks for the clarification, Steven.

Congratulations on completing your fine model, Albert! Now what is next, I wonder?

With the pivot point so near the loom end, those oars must have been beasts to row!

Manual handling is far less risky than a fork lift or other mechanized method!!!! Unless you want to do the restoration all over again....

Heavy duty castors might be a better alternative.

Yup, that looks like a serious crate. How far does the model have to move?

Beautifully done, Patrick. I hope that the shingle pieces are glued in place!