druxey

I've used a mechanical pencil for many years for drafting and for marking out. One can keep an extremely fine point on them, and hence a very thin line. This minimizes error, particularly when fitting joints. I generally use 4H leads. The pencils are still available at places like Michael's (U.S. and Canada) and one can still find boxes of harder grade leads on eBay. 

Thanks, everyone, for the comments to my question. If only the chainplates were indicated on the Chapelle drawing, it might offer further clue as to the mast rakes....

Not a perfect match? That nav light looks nicer than the original, Michael!

Interesting log, so far. Is it possible to find primary sources for information? What source did Chapelle use to draft his version? Again, Bruzelius is a secondary source, unless he is quoting a primary one. I'm not sure either of those sets of mast rakes is correct! One seems too little, the other too extreme.

Nicely machined!

I'd thought about that. One would have to crawl up the stay.... Fortunately we only have to rig that at model size!

A very nice presentation, Albert.

Nice yokes for the swivels, Toni. Well done. They are a beast to make!

Or the book gone astray in the mail. 

No, the length of the top (platform) is the unit. The euphroe sits forward of that be one to one and a half lengths down the stay.

In contemporary rigged models, the euphroe appears to be about the length of the top to 1 1/2 the length away from the front of the top along the stay.

Looks very plausible, Cathead. Nicely done!

I had no idea that the wreck was so deep down. Thanks for posting that photo.

Don't forget the myriad deadeyes, the various hearts, euphroes, and other assorted odds and ends! I always use the 'just in time' approach as I go: it's much less boring than turning out dozens and dozens of blocks all at one time. I use the same approach for spinning up cordage.

Check all the information given in Volume IV, The Fully Framed Model, HMN Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780. 

Nice to see the boat deck being re-populated, Michael!

Beautiful! I was anxious seeing the earlier photos, as a horseman leans forward as the horse jumps, and the Vale painting shows him upright. However - whew! - I see you corrected that in the final photos. Bravo!

Well, I guess I learned a thing or two today as well!

Well stayed, Michael! What remains to be done now?

Coming into the finishing straight.... Good going, Toni.

Somehow I missed your June 30 post, Eberhard. I had assumed the break was for reasons of business, not a nasty virus. I'm glad to read that you have recovered and can continue your beautiful miniature work. Gute gesundheit!

Sometimes the stem curve is made of two different radii, which complicates things! If you are lucky, you can see the prick-mark left by the draftsman's compass when he drew the arcs for the stem and rabbet. Take a line vertically up from the point where the straight part of the rabbet begins to curve and look carefully. 

The other method is to make an arc of the specified radius (13' 7 1/2" in your example) and put the center at different points along the curve and strike several arcs. The intersection of those arcs will locate the center of the curve.

If the planks are rough-sawn, probably a powered planer is easiest if you have access to one. You really only need to face one side and one edge before re-sawing.

If it's any help, try to control your breathing while painting small detail. That will steady your hands. Nevertheless, your painted decoration looks beautiful.

Your work at such small scale is very impressive, Javier!

A good start, Maury!