druxey

Gosh, Michael; we may have stood side by side back then without knowing it! I did exactly the same thing. 

The treatment of windows - more properly termed lights - was a convention seen on many display models from about 1880 to 1950.

Beautifully realized, Doris. 

The earlier the subject, the less information we have. Have you looked at photographs of Vasa's head to see the seats of ease on that ship? Although Swedish, it is almost contemporary to Royal Katherine. That may give you a guide.

If I may comment, the Vale painting seems to have the figure and tip of the knee of the head slightly more angled up than in the Sheldon model. You might want to check that.

Hah! You had us.

Ah! That is another level of difficulty, then. Either decal or photoetch seem to be the only realistic possibilities for those details.

"The stern post to be of good wound? oak tim of the best kind free from defects. sq. at head 12 1/2 (which is t run up to bolt in the Lua? deck beam)"

This should probably read: "The stern post to be of good sound oak timber of the best kind free from defects." The contract and 'as built' plans trump any other reference! There were variances with any Swan class ship. Your filling transoms, provided they fair properly (check using both buttock lines and proof diagonals) will be confirmed correct.

The head of the stern post in Atalanta appears to be at the level of the top of the wing transom (ZAZ 4485), as there is no indication of a gudgeon strap on the rudder any higher. It is hard to tell, because of other overlaid detail.

For the brass wheel rim at that scale, would a ring of thin brass wire carefully flattened out do the trick?

Bamboo through a Byrnes' drawplate (feed in from the small hole side!) makes the job very quick and pleasant.

Looking better and better! I do spot a minute difference with your vent, but I shan't tell anyone. It's still far nicer than any effort of mine!

That is an ambitious first scratch build Lin! Looks like you are making an excellent job of her so far. And - ahem - the front is called the bow.

Welcome aboard!

Just don't leave the masking tape on too long, Dan!

Very impressive and neat paper-work, Dan!

Neatly solved, Michael!

Beautifully fitted joints!

Unless you cannot move them carefully yourself, as these models have great family sentimental value, you should consider a professional company that specializes in moving art and museum objects. Call your local art gallery or museum to find out who they use. It will not be cheap, but they will move the models safely and fully insured.

Diminishing strakes usually taper smoothly across their width so that there are not a series of steps as you've drawn them.

Check out the planking instructionals on this site such as A Primer for Planking, and all will become clear!

Best wishes, John, while you are on the rough road. Also condolences to Pam and yourself on your recent loss.

Very clean and impressive work, Mark!

Hah! And the publisher is?

As I see you have had no replies to your request, perhaps your best course is to contact the publisher. (It may be that no-one else has a copy yet.)

You might find masking off so much of the sail to be a pain, Wefalck.

How very inconvenient of the wreck to have planking missing at the critical juncture. How much structural weakness would a straight line of butts have here?

Yes, the 'lupins', Fabror. And, now we come to mention it, the grapes (that's why I thought they were vine leaves) appear to be anti-gravity and growing upwards. Must have been the influence of the pot.

Love the fun you're having, but the grape vine leaves on the stern look more like pot plant leaves! I'm sure that was entirely unintentional....

For better integrity of the sail, while I use a similar technique as Wefalck (April 20), my doublings of the seams are added with opaque acrylic paint ruled on using an old-fashioned draftsman's bow pen. Grommets are also of acrylic paint.