Jump to content
Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order. ×

druxey

NRG Member
  • Posts

    13,131
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by druxey

  1. Always 'prove' the lines using proof diagonals. These are essentially waterlines at about a 45 degree angle. They will quickly show if things are out of fair.
  2. Thanks for this link, Vossiewulf. I was not aware that one could calibrate a monitor this way.
  3. Congratulations, Gaetan! That is one magnificent model. The puzzle pieces fit perfectly. Now please protect her in a case.
  4. Nicely carved, Toni. With the tiller almost parallel to the deck, does it dip down too far toward the deck when the tiller is swung? If so, simply turn the tiller the other way up!
  5. Instead of cooking the books, you are cooking the looks! I admire your patience in experimenting to achieve the result you want.
  6. The joints will show more through paint over time, Maurys. If they show too much when first painted, that's not a good sign!
  7. Mike: frequent hand-washing and cleanliness in the shop are the keys to avoiding fingerprints.
  8. Thank you Michael and Wefalck, for the comprehensive and logical responses to my question. I assumed that there was good reason for using round rather than square stock, but now you've convinced me! I also hadn't thought through the fact that square collets are not available at those sizes.
  9. Stanchions look great, Michael, even at large magnification. Would it have been a possibility to start with square section stock, drill the holes and then turn, or would cutting forces have snapped the work at the holes?
  10. It's annoying that the draughtsman didn't draw the carved works! One would be fairly safe with either a standard lion or, perhaps, a classical soldier holding a pointy sword.
  11. Wood will tone down in time, Ben. She is coming back nicely now!
  12. After cutting a few of these joints, they should be easy! That last one looks very good, Maury.
  13. An excellent video of advice for folks contemplating a fully framed model. You are a very honest model-maker, Kevin! I appreciate you sharing your experience with everyone.
  14. To reduce chroma (color brightness) often a small amount of the complimentary color is added. A complimentary color is one found on the opposite side of the color wheel. For instance, to reduce an orange-red a greenish blue is used. It sounds counter-intuitive, but it works!
  15. At least you realized this early in the game and no wood was harmed!
  16. Well done, Michael. I assume the meltdowns referred to the stanchions and not yourself!
  17. I too was a lucky recipient of one of Michael's third hands. It's a beautiful piece of small engineering.
  18. There is 'red' and there is 'red'. Both Orange-red and crimson red are 'red', but mixed with white or other colors will yield very different results.
  19. Pleased to oblige, Wefalck. Pictures as requested. They certainly are attractive instruments. There is a table of figures for setting every conceivable proportion one might want. I use similar strategies to yourself when subdividing distances, especially on curved surfaces such as hulls.
×
×
  • Create New...