Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order.
×
druxey
-
Posts
13,131 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by druxey
-
I suspect non-standard kit scales are to fit a certain size of box, or for most economic use of wood sheet. -
Well done, Erik! You managed that last strake beautifully. Take a bow.
-
You don't necessarily need an insert: simply make a ply over-table clamped or screwed to the existing table and raise the saw blade through it. Voila! Zero-clearance. All you need do is to re-arrange the fence to slide over this, or glue a wood fence on a the required spacing from the blade.
-
There are many ways of solving the problem, and many have already been given. However, another method is by adhering the veneer (or other thin stock) to a backing piece of sacrificial wood. I use rubber cement and basswood for the purpose. I use a slitting blade on the saw, so no clean-up of the strips is necessary.
-
Certainly she's already a long way from her 'as received' appearance! This is looking very good, Michael.
- 749 replies
-
- 5
-
-
- albertic
- ocean liner
- (and 2 more)
-
Looking good, Frank. And thank you for your disclosure on the slot issue. We won't ever tell!
-
Just received this news from Model Motorcars as well. This is great to know for many of us! Perhaps this thread should now be re-named "Scale Hardware re-opening"!
-
Nicely done. Was there a reason not to cast the trunnions integrally with the barrel?
-
Oh, my....
-
This is only my opinion, but.... I never plank a hull as in full-size practice, where you end up with a 'whiskey strake' in the middle of the bottom planking. Installing this, as you anticipate, is awkward to do. However, you need to do this now. I suggest that the edges of the planks be bevelled in such a way as to (lightly) wedge them home. I would not make them a force fit. Hopefully this will go well for you. Next model, consider starting at the garboard and working up to the wale. As long as you keep to your mark out (which you are now expert at!), it will go much more easily.
-
Congratulations on yet another fine model, John. The 'pings' of color on the sidelight boxes really set the model off.
- 745 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- francis pritt
- mission ship
- (and 1 more)
-
Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
druxey replied to marsalv's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Very impressive mass blockmaking work! -
Thanks for the link to your site, Gerald. Perhaps you could expound on scale turnbuckles when you have time - please!
- 281 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- falls of clyde
- tanker
- (and 2 more)
-
Once the center of gravity is no longer over the base.... However, as the great comedian Spike Milligan once observed, "The ground. Very useful that. Stops one falling..."
- 749 replies
-
- 6
-
-
- albertic
- ocean liner
- (and 2 more)
-
The underside is what we were talking about, Jud. We all agree on that point!
- 749 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- albertic
- ocean liner
- (and 2 more)
-
I think that you've nailed it, Michael! Will you seal the underside, though?
- 749 replies
-
- 7
-
-
- albertic
- ocean liner
- (and 2 more)
-
I agree that those stanchions are very tricky to make. I found trying to solder two eyes on the two stanchions that required them the worst part of the job. However, you've achieved an excellent end result, Toni.
-
Airbrush
druxey replied to Mike Dowling's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
A good inexpensive cleaner for airbrushes is isopropanol (rubbing alcohol). I've used Aztek airbrushes. These have small interchangeable screw-on nozzles with integral needles and are easy to change color and to clean. With all due respect to Badger, Iwata and Paache users (and I've had all these makes in the past - they are all good) I still prefer my Aztek. There are no more bent or damaged needles. But, each to their own.
Our Emblem ®
