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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    I, too, use the small rechargeable butane torch seen in the photo on the right. I have also used an oxy/propane torch with interchangeable tips in a jeweler's studio. For larger pieces this will provide more even heating more rapidly.
  2. druxey
    It would be great if I could persuade folk to bend planks (by steam or dry heat) so that they would be shaped to 'sit' nicely along the hull without need for 'persuasion' by screws, clamps or other devices of torture!
  3. druxey
    Something like this from the RMG 'Collections' site? Object ID SLR2302 Description Scale: Unknown. A midship model showing a proposed method of hull construction with double-rigged iron frames and wooden planking. The model is made largely in wood with a planked hull and wooden frames to the upperworks. Two decks are depicted in frame, the main deck having a large hatch with a wooden edge. The deck beams are composite with wooden beams sandwiched between metal beams and with metal diagonal bracing. The deck below is identical in terms of composition and layout, but without the diagonal bracing. Two slender metal supports run vertically at either end of the section, fore and aft of the hatches, and terminating at the keelson. A paper label has been applied to the edge of the main deck hatch frame marked "15". Date made circa 1864 Read more at http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/68261.html#SwHmmpfrbz0IJQCp.99
  4. druxey
    ...aaand - down the rabbit hole you go!
  5. druxey
    Not wanting to put you off, Gemma, but there's an awful lot to learn about naval architecture! One article that is helpful in basics was published many years ago in Model Shipwright. No's 22, 23. I'm PM'ing you information.
  6. druxey
    Looks like an upper and lower piece to the fore deadwood to my eye, Joss.
  7. druxey
    Yes, that Longridge book is a nostalgic one for all the pre-war sources of materials that existed then. Unlike his Anatomy of Nelson's Ships, there is little on hull structure. A framed model of Cutty Sark would be a nice challenge for Gerald Wingrove! How about it, Gerald?
  8. druxey
    Very neatly done, Toni. I like the clerestory lights.
  9. druxey
    Nice to see your progress, Michael. Enjoy using your new micro-torch with that beautifully engineered third hand. Is the torch oxy-propane?
  10. druxey
    Nicely cornered coamings!
  11. druxey
    Isn't the aft piece the fore deadwood rather than a third section of apron?
  12. druxey
    An example: the planking above the sheer rail is of danta in this model.
  13. druxey
    Marines were usually quartered aft. Petty officers were allowed a bit more elbow room.
  14. druxey
    Danta (from West Africa, I believe) is a very pleasant wood to use. It does have some grain structure visible, so would work best at larger scales.
  15. druxey
    From the last diagram, it would appear that the vertical planks were applied after at least the first diagonal layer.
  16. druxey
    Longridge also had a two-volume book published on building the model.
  17. druxey
    Welcome aboard, Kiran. We look forward to seeing what you've been modelling.
  18. druxey
    Very interesting building techniques, Andrzej! Nicely done.
  19. druxey
    Unlike the unfortunate Captain, I hope you return! She looks to be taking shape quite nicely now, Steven. You seem to have cornered the market for push pins.
  20. druxey
    That's remarkably good miniature turning on the Unimat, John!
  21. druxey
    The appropriately named Experiment, 50 guns of 1774 is an actual example!
  22. druxey
    Interesting question, Mark. Certainly smaller British vessels such as cutters were 'single' framed, but warships (I assume you mean rated vessels) were a different matter. I've seen framing plans where the 'doubles' were only contiguous at the floors. Ardent, 1782 appears to be an example. There are air spaces above this level to the top of the framing. Whether this would qualify by your definition, I cannot say.
  23. druxey
    And... you've started the marathon, Karl! Good luck and patience to complete all 85 frames for this model.
  24. druxey
    I recommend heat-softening K&S brass tubing before cutting and flanging it. Heat to cherry red and air cool.
  25. druxey
    This is good, methodical planning!

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